paradigm shift Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Got a little surface rust on some parts of the chassis, and knowing that although the bodywork of my 110 is tatty the chassis is solid, I don't wan't to leave it. What's the best way of protecting the underside? Do people simply use things like waxoyl? I was thinking if i clean off the whole underside bit by bit and give it a good coat of hammerite that would surely be the best option? Time consuming but worthwhile in the end -just have to keep an eye on the chassis rails after going offroad in case any had been scraped off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 I think you should try k 1 e * n t e c t Waxoyl seems to be the favoured option and is what I am going to do to my Discovery when I can be bothered to clean the underneath off well enough and then not use it for 2 weeks while it dries out Forget Hammerite it is bluddy rubbish and falls off after about 3 minutes in my experience, never tried it on a chassis but it doesn't stick to anything else... Edited to say how come I ended up with galvanising in the first line on the first attempt??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 POR15 http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8217 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 POR15 if it's got a good covering of surface rust, or you can get ALL of the paint thats on there off first. It does not stick well to anything vaguely paint covered in my experience. Still stuck well to the rusty bits though. Might work better if you use absolutely all of the preparation primer-type stuff they sell as well, I did it by wire brushing and degreasing the chassis first and its come off in sheets where there was a bit of paint underneath. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 poor15 it should be called I use Halfords matt black enamel far superior than the above or hammerite IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Wickes metal paint is doing alright after almost a year, a bit has come off on the areas i didn't prep (and just slapped the end of the tin of paint on) but the areas i prepped are doing nicely. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selectcase Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 i use standard enamel paint from mole valley on the outside and waxoil on the inside of the box section. seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Edited to say how come I ended up with galvanising in the first line on the first attempt??? It's on the auto replace list of censored words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 **** **** and galvanising hey that's not what I wrote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 I cleaned it up and slapped a good coat of underseal on everything I could get at, then liberally sprayed everything with waxoyl. Seems to do a pretty good job, but my truck doesn't lead a particularly hard life compared to some on here... Hasn't stopped the boot floor rusting out, but that was probably already beyond help - plus the really bad bits were where I couldn't get to with the underseal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 It's on the auto replace list of censored words Hmm I bet if I do that trick with rearranging the letters except for the first and last it won't get me kcetelent Ha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 poor15 it should be calledI use Halfords matt black enamel far superior than the above or hammerite IMHO wouldn't touch Hammerite with a ****y stick, the stuff chips-off for fun, did a rear frame member for a motorcycle once, dropped a 1/2 BSF nut on it from 6 inches and the stuff chipped now only do powder coat. POR15 is the dogs when properly used, done the fuel tanks in the 109 with it, two Vincent HRD Comet fuel tanks, two Ariel Arrow fuel tanks and my friend at West Country Sidecars uses nothing else in classic motorcycle fuel tank restorations. All in the preperation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Shame Dougal is not here. There is merit in k1entect I'm sure but out of my reach. He helpfully suggested just thinning waxoil with white spirit to me and I tend to just blow this over as much as I can once every few months when the oportunity arises. Not ideal but it does delay things. As a youth I propped my Mk1 Escort (with home fitted 2ltr pinto engine) on its side and spend ages scraping and painting only to conclude later that the hammerite was a complete waste of time. Good old red oxide still gets my vote and if you don't like the colour just top coat it with your favorite exterior gloss paint (valspar, dulus, b&q,.. whatever). I have also had chassis (not LR sadly) blasted and coated in some pretty poisonous (included cyanide IIRC) stuff in the past along side the shipping containers that spend much of their life exposed on the decks of ships. Excellent stuff, though you had to accept whatever colour was being used at the time. Galv does seem hard to beat though. Anyone know what's involved in a getting a chassis cleaned and galved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Probably easier to buy a new one already done and swap everything over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Probably easier to buy a new one already done and swap everything over. Hmm, yes I think that was my view just hoped someone might offer a viable alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Shame Dougal is not here. There is merit in k1entect I'm sure but out of my reach. IIRC, k1entect can only be applied to new vehicles, anyway? He only offers waxoyling on older ones. As usual, I may be completely wrong, though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 Hmm, yes I think that was my view just hoped someone might offer a viable alternative. A not-so-viable but much more fun alternative: Build a new chassis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradigm shift Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 So a good coat of paint (with plenty of time spent in the preparation) and some waxoyl is basically the way forward then. Just keep an eye on it I guess! If anyone has the info to hand I'd be interested in knowing prices and hassle involved with galvanising a chassis.. just for future reference!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 this is what I do - not making any claims this is beeter than anyone elses method but seems to be ok. 1. brush of rust; using wire brush (hand or drill), emery cloth (hand or flapper disc) 2. paint with rust killer (supposedly neutralises dust, turns it blaxk anyways) 2. spray or paint zinc primer 3. spray or paint chasis black or black hammerite 4. paint with underseal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisha Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 hammerite is too brittle once cured the consensus on a chassis when i last asked was to strip it back reaonsably well, paint with and average exterior paint and then liberally cover with waxoyl - its about as good as your gonna get. i think a kleen-tech may have some merits on a brand new chassis. Its not something that i'm prepared to shell out on personally. I'd rather do the work myself. Alternative coatings may be to consider some of the more fancy stuff used in marine purposes. Polyurea rapid curing 2 component material sprayed rather than cast or poured. It is spray applied using specialist machinery (unfortunetly-no brushing it on!) and comes in any colour. High impact protection properties and upto 10years immersion in salt water. There are places out there that do it for mining and marine equipment if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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