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.....

It would cost somewhere in the region of £4K to do it.

She wouldn't be worth that when done!

.....

So far my RRC has probably cost around £1500 (just a guess) in tools and bits and will need another £800 before I finish. Total spend £2300 on something that was only worth a couple of hundred. But when it's done... hmmmm... WHEN its done... it will be worth...

oooh....

I guess....

about....

£500 perhaps? :o

BUT - I have equipped my garage with tools and equipment and had glorious fun learning all sorts of skills and technologies along the way and I don't for a moment regret my decision to do it. I am certain (however) that I would have greatly regretted getting rid of it - as I think you will if you flog Mildred.

I hope you decide to stay in the fold, but if you don't ... I bet you'll be back ;)

TwoSheds

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What exactly needs doing and how handy with a spanner are you?

Replacing the chassis is strictly nuts & bolts job so if you han handle a spanner ok then you can save yourself a lot of money by doing it yourself. Any components that need replacing can be done as you fit the new chassis as it all has to come off anyway so you don't have to allow extra for fitting these. If the bulkhead is suspect then brand-new TD5 replacements are £200 so once again, not expensive and fitting is easy while you have it all apart.

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The rough list is:

Chassis

Bulkhead

Rear axle casing

Track rods

Fuel tank

seat boxes and floors

radius arm heavily corroded

I can't remember the rest...

I'm fine with tools and doing the work...welding is not my thing.

I guess it comes down to time and the space to do the work.

Of course you're right that by buying another one I'm probably buying into more trouble.

I'm going to have to give this some serious thought.

If I can find a shed near home that would be ideal.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Regards

Gerry

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The rough list is:

Chassis

Bulkhead

Rear axle casing

Track rods

Fuel tank

seat boxes and floors

radius arm heavily corroded

I can't remember the rest...

Sounds like good times ahead :) If you have anouther vehicle to run around in while the 90's in a shed/garage could be a nice little project to keep you busy over the winter months.. and beyond ;)

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To put it another way, for the amount you'll spend doing it up you couldn't buy one in that good a condition - new galv chassis, galv bulkhead - they don't come from the factory that future-proof. Yes in resale value terms you won't make your money back, but in lifespan terms you will. In satisfaction, skills learned and pride in the vehicle it will pay off tenfold.

And money spent on tools is never wasted.

Miketomcat built his tomcat under a mate's carport, goes to show what's possible (although he's not really normal for a number of reasons :lol: )

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Is this an MOT fail or something? A fuel tank only needs replacing if it's leaking, track rod ends are dirt cheap, rear axle casing - what's wrong with it?, seat boxes and floors are alloy, so no big deal to repair with off-cuts of chequer plate or similar, how bad are the chassis and bulkhead? For the kind of money you mention it would be well worth you buying a MIG, practising, and then doing it yourself.

Les.

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Floor panels are about £12 from paddocks, no biggie there. Axle casings aren't hard to come by either - a complete pair of RR axles would likely cost £100-£150 depending on condition. I have a pair in my garden that are crusty but serviceable.

Bulkhead could be patched, repaired or replaced depending on condition and how much effort you want to put in.

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Hi Gerry,

As everyone above sais its all down to how much or how little time and money you want to put into it.

You could do just the basics prep the new cheap second hand chassis to prolong its life and have a good workhorse or go down the route of building your dream land rover to the spec you always wanted.

Ones quick and cheap the other is long winded and as expensive as you let it be.

Time and money is what it boils down to but you have a few options worth considering.

My rebuild I reckon will have cost about £7000 (that includes paying a £1000 for the donor) by the time its finished, which may sound steep but it will be effectively be a brand new land rover albeit being a B reg one ;) , it will have a rebuilt 200TDi lump, galv chassis and new bulkhead and my intention is/has been to build a ten year vehicle.

The other option is get a good second hand chassis like the one listed above, you can get a brand new bulkhead for about £250. If your not too fussy about the cosmetics I reckon you could get your vehicle back on the road for the next five - ?? years without any welding for about a grand?

It also stands as a hobby and the feeling of achievement as the components all come back together has been very rewarding.

I have been told that you can also have a sum assured insurance with certain companies so that you will get a very reasonable settlement sum in the event of a right off.

If you think you can go the distance give it a bash! :D

Cheers

G

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The rough list is:

Chassis

Bulkhead

Rear axle casing

Track rods

Fuel tank

seat boxes and floors

radius arm heavily corroded

Gerry

Chassis ................£1000

Bulkhead...............£180

Rear axle casing.....£150 (good Cond S/H 24 Spline)

Track rods..............£8.50 each joint

Fuel tank................£88.00

seat boxes and floors...............Why ? They are made of Ali

radius arm heavily corroded......£20 (S/H) .............The most you will pay is £250 a pair for new arms.....

So that adds up to about £1500 in parts ............ that means the guy quoting for the work is looking at £2500 labour .............. assuming its a small concern then £35 / hour seems reasonable ..............71 hours or 9 days .............. I think they saw you coming ! :rolleyes:

Go for it as a DIY project............... there is no welding to do in any of that list.............

:)

Ian

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I've been thinking hard about this and looking a prices.

I'm going to speak to the guy this pm about it.

He is only charging £20/hr and estimated his labour at £1300-£1500.

i think he was being cautious, which is understandable.

There are a lot of other things that were mentioned...trailing arms

the rear axle casing leaks.

Track rods & ends have gone...

Rear brakes and pipes etc.

It was a snow-plough and the salt has done so much damage.

I have seen another one, which I checked out yesterday. It has had £thousands spent on it being rebuilt, new bulkhead, rear cross member chassis is very sound etc.

£2800 and it is mine.

has a 2.5 N/A which is not ideal, but it is in amazing condition.

It is a dilemma. Problem for me is the space to do the work. If I had a shed were the 2 could be side by side and the work done I'd do it.

Finding the shed within a reasonable distance is the problem.

I do appreciate all the help and ideas.

Regards

Gerry

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The rough list is:

Chassis

Bulkhead

Rear axle casing

Track rods

Fuel tank

seat boxes and floors

radius arm heavily corroded

I can't remember the rest...

I'm fine with tools and doing the work...welding is not my thing.

I guess it comes down to time and the space to do the work.

Of course you're right that by buying another one I'm probably buying into more trouble.

I'm going to have to give this some serious thought.

If I can find a shed near home that would be ideal.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Regards

Gerry

theres a company that dos a drive in drive out chassis swap for arond 2k,they'lll do the other bits aswell if time is the key.

Theres nothing on your list that hasn't / won't be chnged on anyones landy.Go for it,it feels good knowing the rust won't get your bits!

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i payed 2k for my 200tdi 90. within a week i'd rebuilt a swivel, replaced track rod ends, drop arm ball joint and steering damper. the shocks were old and a bit leaky so it got a set of delphi shocks and a +2 set of scorpion springs B) a bit after that. after time (3 months) a new radiator and thermostat were required. i have just replaced the clutch cos the release fork failed and while it was all in pieces.... i've got a set of disco axles to go on it cos my axle casings are really scabby in places and i want disc brakes all round. i've also got a couple more track rod ends to do. oh yeah, i did the prop shaft uj's aswell, they were utterly shot. when i've done all that i can deal with the rust removal, welding and waxoiling of the chassis. footwells aint to clever either. my girlfriend just suggested to me that i may have bought a nail, and couldn't understand why i was boasting about being a mug to you guys. as far as i'm concerned, the more i do, the better the truck gets. if i do everything that needs doing, it's undoubtably gonna be a proper job! i love my truck, and any one who loves theirs will agree; worth spending the money on. my girlfriend has spent over £1500 :huh: on her old mercdes 407d van this year, cos she thinks that's worth it. i think she's mad, but the feelings mutual!

i know this doesn't actually help you decide what to do with you truck, but maybe it'll give you some perspective. or confuse you. dunno. sorry. should have kept my mouth shut. :P

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What exactly needs doing and how handy with a spanner are you?

Replacing the chassis is strictly nuts & bolts job so if you han handle a spanner ok then you can save yourself a lot of money by doing it yourself. Any components that need replacing can be done as you fit the new chassis as it all has to come off anyway so you don't have to allow extra for fitting these. If the bulkhead is suspect then brand-new TD5 replacements are £200 so once again, not expensive and fitting is easy while you have it all apart.

Hi Guys,

I was looking into purchasing a td5 bulkhead to replace a mates 2.5 NA diesel bh. I believe there are a few mods that you need to do to make it fit. Any ideas what? I am looking at JC surplus who is selling for 300. Where did you see them for 200? What are the quality of them?

See some replacements from paddocks and the like for 205. Surely these are not genuine LR? Anyone tried these? What sort of quality are they?

Dont want to go through all the trouble of shipping, removing and replacement with metal that is substandard!

If not very good quality/shape, maybe better to either repair the old one or purchase a used genuine one.

Your thoughts!

By the way one of my landrovers is a rolling restoration, not that i bought it with that in mind!! It probably would have been easier for me to start from scratch as i seem to be replacing or modifying almost every part of the landy slowly but surely.

Cheers.

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Hi Guys,

I was looking into purchasing a td5 bulkhead to replace a mates 2.5 NA diesel bh. I believe there are a few mods that you need to do to make it fit. Any ideas what?

Cheers.

you need to redrill the wiper motor mounting to put in the the correct place for the earlier bulk head ....................you also need to drill a centre hole for the wiring to enter the engine bay ......................... also you need to modify the tunnel mounting 'arch' in order that the old tunnel and floors fit.............

IIRC trade price is about £200 ish ..............

There is a thread on here of what is needed ..................look at post No 7 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=Bulkhead++TD5

:)

Ian

Ian

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you need to redrill the wiper motor mounting to put in the the correct place for the earlier bulk head ....................you also need to drill a centre hole for the wiring to enter the engine bay ......................... also you need to modify the tunnel mounting 'arch' in order that the old tunnel and floors fit.............

IIRC trade price is about £200 ish ..............

There is a thread on here of what is needed ..................look at post No 7 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=Bulkhead++TD5

:)

Ian

Ian

Thanks for that. Very informative. Something for me to ponder over.

M

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