dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I changed my brake pad yesterday within a record time of 2 hours. It was so because I have got some nagging about me hanging too much around the garage and giving the "Shark" too much TLC. Anyway is there a simple tool to push back the braking Calipers into the cylinder fully? I Cracked 2 "squeezers"!! Any quality tool to suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Using your old pads, and a effin' big screwdriver maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
666 george Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 A 3ft long bit of metal ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 A big G clamp usually works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I can't improve on any of those suggestions. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 A very large pair of water pump pliers normally works for me, but have used the others in the past to good effect as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 I did manage it though by using a gigantic crow bar,Screw drivers (which lost it's erective nature) but at one point I thought the car was about to fall off the stands!! After i lost touch, I banged head on wooden structure in garage!! I broke the G Clamp!! I am thinking of getting something real solid to avoid the hussle of it!! . Brake pads will always be changed at least once a year!! nb definition of erect high lighted= an example is erecting a monument for the regiment!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 A very large pair of water pump pliers normally works for me, but have used the others in the past to good effect as well. Water pump pliers!! hmh... What is it? something new to me!! maybe a google will do!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Whichever method you use (i've used all the above, large pipe grips are my favourite) make sure that the piston goes back into the caliper "square & true" (usually you have to push both sides of the piston in turn to make sure it goes in in a straight line, or as has been said, leave an old pad in place, but push in the centre of it so that the piston goes in true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Whichever method you use (i've used all the above, large pipe grips are my favourite) make sure that the piston goes back into the caliper "square & true" (usually you have to push both sides of the piston in turn to make sure it goes in in a straight line, or as has been said, leave an old pad in place, but push in the centre of it so that the piston goes in true. I did see that in a workshop once. Weighs a tonne (Large Pipe Grips)!! Must be real "macho" to handle that i guess!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 the last time i did the pads on the 90...the pistons were very stubborn/stuck....tried to compress them using a g-clamp (which later broke......), so had to resort to brute force and ignorance. to cut a long story short, i had to compress the piston a bit, press down the brakes to get them to move backwards and forwards...had to do this 5-6 times per corner, and finally got the pistons coming all the way in and out easily. ...perhaps around 20 mins total to replace them, any longer and i'd be suffering from frostbite...it was cold that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Old pads & a good G-Clamp has always worked for me. There is a pukka piston winding back tool but it looks a lot like a G-clamp with two old pads welded to it I had a quick google but all the ones I could find seemed to be for a single-pot caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 The pistons should not be very hard to push back - more than you can do with just fingers but not hard. I usually use a screwdriver in between the old pad and the disc or, if the calliper is off the car, a G-clamp with an old pad is more than adequate, you should not be finding that the G-clamp, even a cheap one, breaks. As Monty suggests, getting the pistons spotlessly clean is the best route forward. My method is: With the calliper still attached to the car and one pad removed, get an assistant (The ideal way to involve the wife in your hobby?) to push gently on the brake peddle until you can see most of the piston - when you can see clean chrome emerging from the cylinder you have gone far enough. You may have to do this one piston at a time using some packing between the piston and the disc to stop the free-moving piston from coming right out. When the clean chrome on the piston is visible, use a little brake cleaner on a cloth to clean all round the piston. Run the cloth round the back of the piston where you cannot see and pull it to and fro to clean the hidden bit - rather like drying your back after a shower. Once the piston is perfectly clean you will be able to see any corrosion on it and assess if it needs replacing - if there is any rust or cracked chrome on it you should consult a specialist or replace/rebuild the calliper with new parts, Uncle Les did a write up in the Tech Archive on this. You can then smear onto the piston the tiniest amount of new brake fluid or, better still, proper brake grease. DO NOT use any other lubricant as you may damage the seals. The piston should then slide back smoothly into the calliper with minimal force - when rebuilding a calliper with new seals and pistons I never need to use more force than I can apply with two thumbs. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Water pump pliers!! hmh... What is it? something new to me!! maybe a google will do!! Something like these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/27031/Hand-T...1UP5SCSTHZOCFFA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Something like these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/27031/Hand-T...1UP5SCSTHZOCFFA Thats what I use. GBMUD is right...getting the piston clean and using brake cleaner is a good step as well. You must make sure that the piston is going back in square....slightly out of true and they will be very hard work. I also open the bleed nipple rather than force fluid back up into the system. My thinking is two fold. You can damage some ABS pumps by forcing fluid back thru them (note that newer LRs have a 'bleed mode' setting that opens the ABS pump valves) and the fluid in the caliper will have been exposed to most water/moisture and so it is a good idea to expel it from the system and top up with fresh fluid if needs be. This is based upon working all manner of car new and old, LR and non-LR. Sorry if all that isn't completely relavant to the discuss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Something like these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/27031/Hand-T...1UP5SCSTHZOCFFA This tool will not move the caliper spring an inch!! I even used one stronger than that !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Thats what I use. GBMUD is right...getting the piston clean and using brake cleaner is a good step as well. You must make sure that the piston is going back in square....slightly out of true and they will be very hard work. I also open the bleed nipple rather than force fluid back up into the system. My thinking is two fold. You can damage some ABS pumps by forcing fluid back thru them (note that newer LRs have a 'bleed mode' setting that opens the ABS pump valves) and the fluid in the caliper will have been exposed to most water/moisture and so it is a good idea to expel it from the system and top up with fresh fluid if needs be. This is based upon working all manner of car new and old, LR and non-LR. Sorry if all that isn't completely relavant to the discuss ^^No, that's a good point. You are also in danger of fluid overflow from the MC resevoir too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Thats what I use. GBMUD is right...getting the piston clean and using brake cleaner is a good step as well. You must make sure that the piston is going back in square....slightly out of true and they will be very hard work. I also open the bleed nipple rather than force fluid back up into the system. My thinking is two fold. You can damage some ABS pumps by forcing fluid back thru them (note that newer LRs have a 'bleed mode' setting that opens the ABS pump valves) and the fluid in the caliper will have been exposed to most water/moisture and so it is a good idea to expel it from the system and top up with fresh fluid if needs be. This is based upon working all manner of car new and old, LR and non-LR. Sorry if all that isn't completely relavant to the discuss Andy and GBMUD I think all discussions here are relevant. I have bought new Calipers and will be changing it next summer together with the brake pads and getting these info in advance will help me get a real good work done! I try to find the good in everyone's idea and use it. All are relevant Andy .. no sweat! One thing too-- I had to wash nose and and face and afterwards a good shower to ward off all the caliper dust which eventually started itching on my flesh. I think the best thing would be to make sure the area is clean and yeah a mech once told me to open bleeding nipple to ward off all old brake fluids!! thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 This tool will not move the caliper spring an inch!! I even used one stronger than that !! That comment points very strongly to the fact that the piston was pushed unevenly, and became crooked in the bore of the caliper. At this point the best course of action is to block any other piston from moving, then press lightly on the brake pedal until the stuck piston moves. To help avoiding the 'crooked push' I suggest you ALWAYS push on an old pad backing plate, NEVER on the piston itself. It's always possible to break the rules and get away with it, sometimes, but why set up a trap for yourself? HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Something like this that could go into the caliper would have been a genuine idea!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 That comment points very strongly to the fact that the piston was pushed unevenly, and became crooked in the bore of the caliper. At this point the best course of action is to block any other piston from moving, then press lightly on the brake pedal until the stuck piston moves.To help avoiding the 'crooked push' I suggest you ALWAYS push on an old pad backing plate, NEVER on the piston itself. It's always possible to break the rules and get away with it, sometimes, but why set up a trap for yourself? HTH Correction here Dav . I did use the old brake pad as the leveler. I then targeted the middle to get both. I am sending this topic mainly because there should be easier ways of getting this done. And ideas that have been released here are simply wonderful. I did eventually get it in place. I just do not want to get into that hussle the next time. The first Pad area was a piece of cake but the second one nearly broke my Spinal chord!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Try this machine mart i just use a piece of wood and big g Clamp as mentioned before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Try this machine mart i just use a piece of wood and big g Clamp as mentioned before Hi Meg I think this would do. I have seen it in a shop and I guess the best thing would be to "Sneeze out" some £50 for it. I am just thinking of the future not today. My Spinal chord (vertebral column) teeth, skull, knee and fingers are much more important to me. I guess i will avoid using primitive methods to avoid damages!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisV8 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I use one of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...utomotive-tools but if the pistons are corroded it will probably bend, but it works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 I use one of thesehttp://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...utomotive-tools but if the pistons are corroded it will probably bend, but it works for me I used this and it took the first the left side but on the right side, the visible nut fell off! The washer underneath is aluminium and it simply melted off!! I will repair it for later use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.