JST Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 just under 300miles on the last rear ( T box end of prop.) these things dont seem to last long! granted its 300miles of hard going but still thats was only 3 events! where the cheapest place to buy new ones? and how much are you all paying? my fronts are the larger ones, price very 3.75 - 12.50 + VAT (and those where the same make!) and rear prop the smaller ones. about £3.50 + VAT was the last i paid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Greased after every event? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 there are some dubious quality Uj's on the market, personally i'd only go for a known make, like hardy spicer... even using in a harsh environment like events they should last longer than 300 miles... i'd give them a couple of stokes with the grease gun before and after each event, just to push the dirty grease out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 greased before and after each event i go for the cheaper ones on the grounds they need changing often, the more expensive/better quality ones dont seem to last that long either. although i have never had a set go at under 1k miles before, let alone 300miles! to note the fronts with less suspension articulation, have only just had one changed in 10k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 greased before and after each eventi go for the cheaper ones on the grounds they need changing often, the more expensive/better quality ones dont seem to last that long either. although i have never had a set go at under 1k miles before, let alone 300miles! to note the fronts with less suspension articulation, have only just had one changed in 10k. As a rule you get what you pay for. I used to buy the cheapest ones I could find, now, following SimonR's lead, I buy OE. For U/Js that means Hardy Spicer. Not sure I have had to change a HS one yet... Same story with wheel bearings. I used to get the cheap as chips chocolate ones and change them regularly. I now have Timken(?) ones fitted and have yet to have one fail for any reason other than water/mud ingress through the seal. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ101 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 As a rule you get what you pay for. Ditto,, done the same for a good few years, where ever possible, have gone for branded/oe parts,, You soon forget how much you pay for something, and get no problems Am in the parts game,, a customer may winge a bit with the initial cost, in this case say £ 20 odd, but when you sell them a cheaper pattern parts, and it breaks, they soon forget they bought the cheap one at say £10 !! and have to do the job again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 James are you using a wide yoke prop on the rear ? If not try get hold of one , Got em on mine and cut out the flange aeras where the prop yokes swing in to the flange , gives you about an extra 12-15 degrees drop angle , and no uj bind up . Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Changed mine for the last MOT and fitted cheap, absolute b****** to fit. never had a problem with UJ's before. All the rollers kept falling out when putting in the opposite side, and very tight I had to use a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Have you checked the gearbox mounts/rubbers that will lead to faster wear. if there brocken the box under load will twist and bu88er the UJ's on the prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 James, Get a proper wheelbase, then you're rear UJ's will last longer!! My hat? Why thank you, oh and my coat too, what a fine fellow you are!! [sLAM] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 too much travel for standard props, the UJ's are knocking themselves to bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 James, Just buy some genuine ones. Even the ones without a grease nipple are largely 'fit & forget'. Nobody can accuse me of not abusing them or not using them at extreme offset angles - but still they go on. You can see the quality of the rubber seals and rollers are in a whole different league to the 'cheap as chips' (sorry Nick) ones! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 James,Just buy some genuine ones. Even the ones without a grease nipple are largely 'fit & forget'. Nobody can accuse me of not abusing them or not using them at extreme offset angles - but still they go on. You can see the quality of the rubber seals and rollers are in a whole different league to the 'cheap as chips' (sorry Nick) ones! Si My thoughts exactly for a few extra quid go gen part. As I have said before I have a 4" lift and in 8yrs of haveing the truck only replaced two or three UJ's and that was due to a gearbox change I had to fit a new prop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I've had/ruined genuine ones just as quick as pattern parts the yokes touching on articulation ruins them very quickly. I had the front prop made and allowed for plenty of movement the rear still wears them fairly quickly but not 300miles..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 Bish - cheers for the thought, i guess a 100" like yours rarely gets through UJs, but then it was a pretty level field where i saw you last! Jase - yep std props, may look for the wider ones at this rate, got any photos of the bits you cut out? if not i will have a look at the next CSW event. - you going in Jul? smae site as my event. 2 dayer. OEM/Cheapo make no difference in life span from my experience. having said that cheapo ones on the td5 have done 40k miles and are OK so they cant be that bad, more of a prop binding issue i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Well, I killed a brand new HS UJ on the front of my Series within 800 miles, so quality didn't shine through on that occassion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I have one question/observation with regards to greasing a u/j: We have one nipple to grease 4 bearings. In reality, this means that you usualy grease only one or maybe two bearing, as the grease find the way of the least resistance. I have been using g-clamps to try and close te paths of grease into one set of bearings, but the whole thing seems a bad design to me. Ideas anyone? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I have one question/observation with regards to greasing a u/j: We have one nipple to grease 4 bearings. In reality, this means that you usualy grease only one or maybe two bearing, as the grease find the way of the least resistance. I have been using g-clamps to try and close te paths of grease into one set of bearings, but the whole thing seems a bad design to me. Ideas anyone?Daan I agree, a good proportion of the time one or more bearing caps don't get the grease inside them 'changed' when you pump them up. A particular problem as they get older, the grease can harden in those that don't get fresh grease and so compounds the problem. It is usually best to grease the props when they are warm after a long run. You can use a hot air stripper on those caps that don't let the grease through and this sometimes helps. The best solution would be idividual grease points at each cap, but I can't imagine there are any off the shelf Landrover sized joints with individual greasing points. You would need blanking caps so that the nipples could be replaced during use, or the nipples would get knocked off offroad. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 i concure and cetainly the older UJ i have fitted i have only ever got a max of 3 caps to show the grease coming through. however the newer ones recently fitted (same make - Bearmach) had grooves in the end of each leg and grease came out all 4 caps. not sure how it will owrk once they have aged a bit though, time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I found it to be a problem on any uj, genuine or chocolate ones. It is not so bad if you do them every week, but who does that? if you leave them for 3 months or so, You will have this problem, I found. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Been under the Landrover doing some checking this afternoon and guess what? Both rear propshaft U/Js need replaced. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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