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Converting to rear discs on a 110


Adam001

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Looking thru, its very similar to your list above, but i didnt buy all the bits new, and some bits arent quite right.

Maybe an annotated version of the above would work?

ftc3306 2 caliper bracket - yep
ftc1724 1 shaft - i re-used the drum shafts
ftc1725 1 shaft - i re-used the drum shafts
ftc1740 2 stub axle - yep
ftc3846 2 Disc - yep, or use your preferred aftermarket supplier
stc1268 1 caliper - yep
stc1269 1 caliper - yep
stc1601 1 pad kit - yep, or use your preferred aftermarket supplier
bx110071m 8 bolt - not sure this is the correct PN, you need some longer M10 bolts than the normal stub axle ones, i believe you need 4 M10x30 (SX110301) and 8 M10x55 (FC110116). I used bolts from my stock of the appropriate grade.
NY110041L 8 nut - as above, microcat suggests you need four of these, not 8. They're just normal M10 nylocs, get some from your local fastener suppliers.
ftc942 2 wheel hub - yep, i used some 300tdi hubs from a mate, front or rear will work, from any defender after 94, or 300 series disco.
ftc859 2 drive member - yep, i used the "HD" ones from paddocks, Terrafirma or ashcrofts do similar, or you can use genuine LR.
frc2310 2 plate - yep, you can reuse the drum one, or replace (its probably rotten).
bx110095m 10 drive member bolts - yep
ftc943 2 hub caps - i used HD flanges which have bolt-on caps.
549473 2 circlips - yep, though i reused these.
ftc5241 2 bearing washer - yep, reuse the ones that come with the later hubs, or buy new
ftc3179 2 lock washer - yep
frc8700 4 nut bearings - yep, you can reuse the drum ones if you want.
rtc3429 4 bearings - yep
ftc4785 2 inner hub seal - yep
ftc5268 2 stub axle seal - i left this out to allow oil into the bearings, plus the drum shafts have no sealing land anyway.
Ruf000020 10 nut - these are wheel studs, no need to replace if your using a used pair of hubs, i guess new hubs dont come with.
FTC1368 10 disc to hub bolt - yep
STC8574 2 pad clips - these are 90 parts, not 110, the 110 pad kit should include them.
SYP500090 4 caliper bolts - yep

Also missing from that list, was the two paper gaskets for the stub axles, STC3649. I found these hard to get hold of, had to reorder a few times, and ended up buying genuine LR as the pattern ones simply didnt fit.

Hope that helps!

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Well now...

The only thing i had still to fit was the calipers, so went to install them this evening given this discussion to round it all off and post some photos.... no dice.

Turns out i've bought 90 rear disks (FTC1381), rather than the correct 300tdi 110 rear disks, as such it obviously doesnt bloody fit. Clearly a bit of a brainfart back in 2010 when i ordered all this carp.

Oh well looks like i'll need to order the correct disks mentioned above and take the bloody hubs apart again to rectify :(

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I think my conversion is complete now, just swapped the 6mm spacers & 5mm worth of washers for new 10mm spacers between caliper bracket & axle flange, caliper looks to be sitting equal distance from the disc, when brakes are at rest the pads have a running clearance with the disc.

so my previous 6mm spacers [axle pair] & new 12mm spacers [which can be surface ground to 10mm if required] are available if anybody wants them. PM me for more details.

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the rear brakes when warmed up have been sticking partly on, the fronts seem to be fine, I fitted 2 x 0.5mm between the servo & master cylinder & it seemed to be better, a workmate suggested the master cylinder/pedal might not have any free play & be partly holding pressure in the rear circuit, obtained a new TRW master cylinder as a precaution the existing one was duff,

I've replaced the brake master cylinder today for a new TRW item & removed the 0.5mm washers & re-bled the brakes all round,I'll take the 110 for a test drive tomorrow to see if it's cured or doing the same trick.

wondering if anyone else has found a similar problem ?

servo & vacuum pump are fully serviceable, pedal sinks slightly when foot on it & engine started.

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removed the washers yesterday, drove to work today, rear brakes still dragging, got quite hot & wouldn't let me accelerate, so stopped & cracked left rear bleed screw which released the pressure, then it drove fine, refitted the washers so master cylinder now has 1mm between it & servo, drive home this afternoon seemed better no hot brakes, looks like I may have a sticky caliper,

as the drive home was OK, lets see what the drive to work & brake use does tomorrow

I've ordered a new caliper seal kit [genuine LR] will swap these over the weekend
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Mine are also fine, no such issues. And mine is more of a mix, 110 master (1994 tdi200) and servo with 90 calipers all round (fronts are from a 96, rears are of an unknown origin)

G

That's a standard 90 setup then. All post-1991 Defenders share the same master cylinder (save for ABS variations) and the same piston size/configuration on the front axle. The only difference is that LWB models got vented at standard whereas it was only an HD option on SWBs. Rear axle is different piston/caliper/disc size between SWB and LWB.

With regard to your issue Ralph, if cracking the bleed screw released the pressure would that not point to a hydraulic issue rather than a sticking piston? Perhaps those washers were creating a small residual pressure in the rear circuit somehow.

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the washers between servo/master cylinder were not fitted for the drive in to work this morning, that's when the dragging brakes got worse, releasing the preesure via bleed screw sorted it for the last bit of the trip.

drove home fine with the washers 1mm fitted, they are still in place so I can compare tomorrow's drive with today.

at the servo the rod has a hexagon & a ball end which operates the master cylinder piston, is this adjustable ?

seems it's either a sticking piston which eases when pressure is released via bleed screw or not enough clearance between servo rod & MC when brakes are off

my new MC fitted on 21/6/13 & same as factory fitted MC & servo & the servo hex/ball end rod

I know Mr V8Freak had diesel jim's converted rear axle & retained the same MC/servo as mine without any problems.

does the later 300tdi/Td5 MC have a different bore diameter to mine ?

suggested from another member, I've checked the rear pads & pins are free to move within the calipers, all is good.

post-20-0-69402600-1372180074_thumb.jpg

post-20-0-53360400-1372180088_thumb.jpg

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OK, cheers anyway,

drive in today seemed OK, rears only slightly warm, no dragging like the day before, took my breaktime to swap the 1mm washers between servo/MC for 1.6mm washers, pedal has a bit of freeplay now at rest & drive home OK too, going to try over weekend to centralise the calipers to the disc a bit more accuratly than they are now & see if that helps cure my dragging rear brakes.

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