d-90 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Hello everyone, Have been checking this fantastic forum some time, but only now decided to participate. I live in Portugal and have a 2002 Defender 90, and I wish to convert the front axle to take the early type CV´s (AEU2522). I already have a pair of ashcroft shafts in the garage (24/23 spline). I do understand that I need to change some things in my front axle in order to install this shafts together with the AEU2522 cv´s. I understand that ashcroft has a bolt on cv to my axle, but I wish to convert to the original spec, so I can choose differente makes of cv´s. I´ve learned in some threads over here that the thing to do is to get a older type axle. However, here in Portugal it very hard to find one of these. So, the only way here is to get these parts new. I would like to know what parts I have to buy and their references (spindles, flanges, bushes, etc ....) and also where is the best place to buy them in the UK. Thand you for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Ashcroft indeed do a CV that will fit the shafts you have and so far have proved very strong. If you want to fit AEU2522s you'll need the Maxi-drive conversion kit this includes x2 bronze bushes that replace the needle roller-bearing that fits inside the stub axles then you need the over height drive members from Maxi drive these are 62mm taller than standard sized ones. these are the bushes: not the best pic but you can see the extended drive member: your easiest/cheapest way would be to buy the Ashcroft CVs that fit your axles without all the extra bits. PS the European supplier for Maxi Drive knows how to charge if you get my meaning.. far better to import from Aus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-90 Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Thanks for your responde white 90. According to the ashcroft website, there are two ways of doing the conversion. One of them is the one you mentioned, with the bushes and drive members from MaxiDrive. The other one is replacing the "stubs and hubs". How about this second way? Is it possible to get these early style "stubs and hubs" from suppliers like paddockspares or others? Or will it be easier/cheaper to go with the conversion kit from MD? The reason I don´t want to go directly with the "late type" ashcroft cv it´s because I want to do the conversion first. This way I won´t be obligated to use only that special geometry cv. With the conversion, I can still use the ashcroft AEU2522 cv (early) and, if this fails, I can replace it in the field with regular AEU2522. Thanks PS: How can I contact MaxiDrive directly in order to get a price quotation directly from them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 to do it without the Maxi Drive kit you'll need the earlier stub axles/hubs complete from a 110 the other way would be to buy a complete axle and fit that rather than buy parts of an axle. The maxidrive kit would cost far less than the above approx £150 for the drive members and x2 bushes. outback imports in France are the european supplier if your only getting the drive members/bushes they'll probably charge £200-£250ish Maxi Drive can be contacted directly here http://www.4wdworld.com.au/products/maxidrive/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Why not just get one of the Ashcroft 4340/300M CVs to fit the later axles. Then you won't have to worry about breakage. The AEU2522, although better, still break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Baldwin Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 FYI: Was talking to Outback Import just the other day. Maxidrive stuff will soon be available off-the-shelf in the UK from a handful of approved suppliers. D4x4, Frogs and Cheviot were the names mentioned. Outback Import still retain the European distributorship, so prices not likely to get any cheaper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 The mark up by Outback is exorbitant in the region of 150-200% mark up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 You'd think it'd be cheaper to get the stuff made locally to spec than ship it half way round the globe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 I'm doing the same thing to my front axle, already got the drive flanges & bushes (thanks Will ) just need to get some shafts & some spare time! Edited to add, I noticed in this months LRO one of the big advertisers is doingcopies of the Maxi-Drive/Ashcroft flanges for I think £39.00! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 I noticed in this months LRO one of the big advertisers is doingcopies of the Maxi-Drive/Ashcroft flanges for I think £39.00! Are they orange? No they can't be... too cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 No, they're not orange ones. It's a big old advert, company name has got 4x4 in the title, I'll have a look tonight if no one else posts it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Yep my sponsor makes them for distribution...... There not to compete with the Ashcroft if there the ones I'm thinking of If not disregard this post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Buy from Uncle Bill in Utah, saves a packet, here in the UK within 4 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtrans Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Thanks for your responde white 90.According to the ashcroft website, there are two ways of doing the conversion. One of them is the one you mentioned, with the bushes and drive members from MaxiDrive. The other one is replacing the "stubs and hubs". How about this second way? Is it possible to get these early style "stubs and hubs" from suppliers like paddockspares or others? Or will it be easier/cheaper to go with the conversion kit from MD? The reason I don´t want to go directly with the "late type" ashcroft cv it´s because I want to do the conversion first. This way I won´t be obligated to use only that special geometry cv. With the conversion, I can still use the ashcroft AEU2522 cv (early) and, if this fails, I can replace it in the field with regular AEU2522. Hi D-90, I understand your reasoning for going to the 2522 set up is so that you can either fit a stock 2522 or upgrade to our new HD 2522 style CV's if you break a stock one but bear in mind a few things, 1) if the stock 2522 breaks it often chews the halfshaft also so a field repair is not always straight forward, 2) if you fit some of our later type 'CVL' HD CV's and 23/24 spline shafts these are a direct fit in place of the stock 300 / TD5 set up, so just supposing you do have a failure in the field you can just drop back in the stock CV / shaft to keep you going, 3) we have now sold approx 150 pairs of CV's and approx 200 pairs of the new design of shafts, ie 300 CV's and 400 shafts over the last 8 months to serious off roaders all over the world, we have not had one single failure to date of a shaft or CV, (not bad even if I do say so myself !) for your interest and others we will be at Billing this year, one of the main features of our stand will be our destructive test rig where we will be breaking shafts and CV's a plenty so you can see for yourself the differences in strength. Hope to see you there, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 for your interest and others we will be at Billing this year, one of the main features of our stand will be our destructive test rig where we will be breaking shafts and CV's a plenty so you can see for yourself the differences in strength. Hope to see you there, A splintered bit of metal is worth a thousand words Sounds like an expensive day, but a good way to promote the products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsie Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Will be worth a trip to billing to see that,especialy as i am just about to fit 36"simexes Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Dammit, I'm gonna have to come to Billing now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 No, they're not orange ones. It's a big old advert, company name has got 4x4 in the title, I'll have a look tonight if no one else posts it up. 4x4 Mail order is the company doing the drive flanges for £39.00. Not sure what they're made from, offset etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Point taken on not going to conversion hassles to fit a 2522, however there are a few more things to remember: The thicker hub puts the wheel bearings wider apart from each other, making a stronger construction. Important when running bigger wheels with big offsets. Also, there is more engagement of the flanges on the shafts, resulting in less wear. I have not felt the need to go for the special drive members because I use the old versions. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-90 Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Thank you all for your help. Will have to consider the straight on cv from ashcroft. Things really get simple this way. I already have the 24/23 spline shafts, nevertheless they aren´t the new design model. Will they be up to the job? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Sorry to bring this thread back but I've been on holidays. I ran the MD AEU2522 conversion for about 18 months and you will still break CVs. As has been said you will often chew the halfshaft and conversion bush in the process. Also, if you're very lucky you'll flair out the end of the stub axle making a field repair impossible. Really, really unammusing. I then started looking for other options, including custom CVs from the states, but soon heard Ashcroft were developing just what I was looking for. I have now been running a pair of the pre production later type CVs for about 8 months and I've been very happy. They are seriously strong! As far as the wheelbearings go, I've never had problems running 35" tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 As far as the wheelbearings go, I've never had problems running 35" tyres. I don't think wheelbearings bother too much about tyre height, it is width/offset that kills them. Some people here run 12.50 tyres on 10" rims which stick out past the wheelarches about 4 or 5 inches, and I understand they don't do wheel bearings or swivel pins or steering joints a lot of good. When I run 12.50s they are on 8x15 rims so much less sticking out, and the only wheel bearing I can recall replacing was on the old Discovery which had standard wheels on it. Then again the 90 wheel bearings all get done about once a year (removed cleaned greased and refitted with new hub seals) as a precautionary measure. Driving 50 miles home at 10mph with a seized wheel bearing is no fun, and there ain't an AA to call on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Anyone here have experience with the KAM 24/23 spline female/female cv joint with fusable stubshafts? I modified Toyota cv's to be like that for my front portal boxes, and they have held up fine, but would like an off the shelf option if they were stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Bill, Replacement Cvs for 303's? no probs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Anyone here have experience with the KAM 24/23 spline female/female cv joint with fusable stubshafts?I modified Toyota cv's to be like that for my front portal boxes, and they have held up fine, but would like an off the shelf option if they were stronger. Hi Bill, just realised exactly which Bill you were - welcome to the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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