ejparrott Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 While my 88 is in pieces, and having her gearbox changed, I thought it'd be a good idea to change the flyhweel housing gasket, rear crank seal and the flywheel bush, hoping that in approximately 2 years when the planned chassis swap happens, that I'll be able to swap engine and gearbox in one hit. Do I need to drop the oil to change the gasket and crank seal, or does the oil sit low enough not to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Casting my mind back, I did it without dropping the oil and i didn't have a problem. mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Oil is definitely below the crank, been there twice. The first was a genuine Dowty that leaked for no visible reason, the 2nd also a Dowty fell out after about a month and the current one is a squishy orange pattern part that seals better and has lasted some years now, plus it was a lot cheaper to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 the rear crank seal is in the flywheel housing, a simple change if the engines out, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Don't bother with using a flywheel housing gasket - use rtv instead. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks guys, already got the gasket, had it some time. I've not had any trouble with oil soaked gaskets before, but I am tempted to use RTV now you mention it........ Mike I'm not taking the engine out, only the gearbox which needs changing anyway. Anyone any special tricks or tips I should be aware of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 If your rear main bearing cap T-seals leak, oil will seep out of the gasket, whereas an rtv seal will prevent that from happening. Make sure you use threadlok on the flywheel bolts and they are torqued-up correctly. You don't want the flywheel coming loose. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Very true! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 An older thread but can I ask a question as I'm about to start removing gearbox to do rear crank seal, might aswell do flywheel housing while in there . ref Les input about using rtv.. where do I put it ?? The gasket looks large , can't imagine I cover that whole area in sealant? assuming I need a ring around crank seal hole and then edge of housing ??? anyone ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 No, you just put a thin continuous bead of it around the area where the gasket usually is. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 The workshop manual shows in detail where the sealant should go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Cheers fellas anyone got that workshop manual picture ?? Gearbox now out and cleaned, might do flywheel housing tomorrow ... hard to tell as it's getting dark but does the starter motor have to come off to get flywheel housing off ?? I'm guessing so thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Also,, have I caught this in time ? new recon tbox going on with crossdrilled gear. Looks like about 1mm worn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 sealant map in section 12 page 60 http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender-90-110-workshop-manual-Supplement.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Great stuff thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 19 hours ago, Chambo110 said: Also,, have I caught this in time ? new recon tbox going on with crossdrilled gear. Looks like about 1mm worn Sorry, I would say that's past it. It will work but any wear will result in play and, in time, more wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 23 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: Sorry, I would say that's past it. It will work but any wear will result in play and, in time, more wear. Noooooooooo ?? you think it will last a while though? And if I leave, will it bugger my recon tbox ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Forgot to ask a couple more things, I'm thinking it will be easier to mate tbox and gbox together and refit as one unit, obviously aware about tbox seal damage if fitted separate . Is this best ? also do I have to remove my new tbox cross drilled input to mate them together ? and last ( for now) do I need to pre oil/ grease anything ? thanks to all for input and especially Les for the very well detailed how to write ups on pretty much everything . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 With the oil seal make sure you buy one with the oil seal fitting tool stops the inside lip flipping over the crank when fitting the housing back on with the seal fitted to the housing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Yep, it has.. not fitted yet but one of the next jobs. Along with trying to get gearbox rear oil seal and collar out ?? any tips for that part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, Chambo110 said: Yep, it has.. not fitted yet but one of the next jobs. Along with trying to get gearbox rear oil seal and collar out ?? any tips for that part The collar needs a special puller to get it off and another tool to refit. So leave in place. Carefully drill 2 small screws into the seal and then screw in 2 small self tapping screws into the holes. You should be able to use the screws to pull out the seal. Don't go mad with the drill or screws or you will damage the collar. Get an old coleslaw pot or plastic milk bottle and cut out a strip approx 50mm wide and long enough to wrap around the collar - i.e make a plastic ring. Secure ring together with thin tape. Grease thoroughly on the outside and slide over collar. Pack inside of seal - i.e the side where the spring is, with Vaseline. Grease seal lips lightly. Slide seal over the plastic ring, the ring will prevent the lip being damaged by the groove in the shaft collar and the Vaseline will prevent the lips flipping inside out. Tap seal home. Gently pull out plastic ring. Edited January 2, 2017 by simonb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Superb tip thanks very much. Will give it a go tomorrow cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Anyone help with the mating of the 2 boxes? Does crossdrilled input need to be removed to fit the 2 together? And, is it just the input / output seals on the respective boxes that stop oil from between the 2 ( no gaskets or sealant needed between the 2) thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 No need to remove input gear to mate boxes. I would install together, bench pressing and LT230 is no fun. No sealant between the two, as you say, the seals do their work here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 More great info.. thanks very much and apologies to the op as I've only just noticed I've actually hijacked this one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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