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No Fan Whatsoever


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Aye, mine is still off and I'm wondering if it's worth replacing it, maybe it keeps carp off the radiator ?

BTW, I manged a cut finger and a bump on the head whilst putting the belts on, had on the latex gloves and saw this on removal !!

IMG_20120420_171357.jpg

I always switch off the engine before I do that. :rolleyes:

Daan

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Removing the fan on an engine that likes cooking itself more than a masochistic cannibal sounds like a pretty bad idea really. Just keep it on, it may buy you a little extra time before your temp gauge decides to shoot up.

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Hmm..as usual I seem to be bucking the trend. There's been no fan used on my TDi'd 88" for four or five years now. The engine fan can't be used as it fouls the bottom hose, and there once was an electric fan, never used, until it fell off its mounts and chewed a hole in the rad...

I normally advise as a minimum fitting an electric fan, its a case of 'do as I say not as I do'. LR did design the engine to have a fan, they wouldn't have if it wasn't needed.

I have a small fan to fit to The 109's intercooler to provide airflow at low speeds...just got to figure a way of automatically switching it...

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For what it's worth, I have a 14" electric fan on my 109's 200Tdi conversion because the viscous fan wouldn't fit with the Discovery engine's fan position, and I don't like it at all. A Defender engine would have been better and I'd have retained the original fan. The electric fan helps a great deal on long mountain climbs, but it struggles in the summer heat on mountain roads. My 300Tdi RRC will retain its standard fan, even though the vehicle is rarely pushed hard enough for it to be needed - you just never know when it might be necessary. A fan is essentially an insurance policy for most of us, but some vehicles really work hard and need them often. I remember the guys at Atlas Overland telling me about one idiot who had a 90 on their Libyan trip. His engine overheated in the desert, and when they opened the bonnet they saw the fan had been removed - he replied that the Tdi didn't need it! His vehicle went home on a trailer from the next town.

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three questions:

Where does one get a coolant loss sensor and is it just a light that comes on - how does it work etc. (ok more that three questions).

Is there any point putting the cowling back on if you have an electric fan? (200tdi Defender engine).

Can the kenlowe 14" replace the viscous unit or would it be worth while throwing the viscous back on as well?

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A properly working viscous fan is best, if it will fit unlike mine, and likewise the cowling. The viscous fan will freewheel until it gets hot, so move little air over the rad during warm up. If the coupling fails, it locks on and so the fan is permanently pulling air over the rad during warm up.

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We put a manual switch on UAZ cars to switch off the fan when going into deep water - otherwise it sprays water on the sparks and the ceramic cracks...

Is the water sprayed by fan a problem on the diesel Puma LRs?

I have seen on the utube along with installing a snorkel, a guy was covering the TD5 grill with a removable leather cover before going wading...

Is it the same problem?

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We put a manual switch on UAZ cars to switch off the fan when going into deep water - otherwise it sprays water on the sparks and the ceramic cracks...

Is the water sprayed by fan a problem on the diesel Puma LRs?

I have seen on the utube along with installing a snorkel, a guy was covering the TD5 grill with a removable leather cover before going wading...

Is it the same problem?

The covering of the grill is normally to stop clogging of the radiator by mud/debris from the water

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three questions:

Where does one get a coolant loss sensor and is it just a light that comes on - how does it work etc. (ok more that three questions).

Is there any point putting the cowling back on if you have an electric fan? (200tdi Defender engine).

Can the kenlowe 14" replace the viscous unit or would it be worth while throwing the viscous back on as well?

Coolant loss sensor here

http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=10972&highlight=300tdi+coolant+level+sensor

I don't think it's needed on a 200Tdi because of the design differences

No viscous fan freewheels, it always pulls air. Even at a minus ambient temperature it will cool the engine. Stand at the grill of a Land Rover with a correctly working viscous fan. Put your bare hand there on a morning when the ambient temperature is below freezing

and fell the freezing air beeing pulled through the radiator..

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The covering of the grill is normally to stop clogging of the radiator by mud/debris from the water

So deep water is no problem with 110 Puma engine with open grill, and no transformations are needed except the snorkel and extended axels air intake

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So deep water is no problem with 110 Puma engine with open grill, and no transformations are needed except the snorkel and extended axels air intake

Sorry I don't know what else you would need to do. Also depends on what you class as deep, the older tdi engines also really needed other breathers extended for example the injector pump, you also should be concerned as to the fuel cap going below water as those are breathable.

Puma engines are quite new still so I doubt many people have given them a good dunking.

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A properly working viscous fan is best, if it will fit unlike mine, and likewise the cowling.  The viscous fan will freewheel until it gets hot, so move little air over the rad during warm up.  If the coupling fails, it locks on and so the fan is permanently pulling air over the rad during warm up.

That's what happened on the 90 that led me to throw a kenlowe on it (or rather it wouldn't lock). Also I never had the cowling on the viscous was fairly useless anyway (is that right?). Have a kenlowe on the 110 project as it didn't have a fan when I got her and since previous experience + naivety in believing fuel reduction stuff I went electric - all fitted now so what you gonna do?Also with the 90 it was fixed off and overheating - only when fitting the kenlowe did i find out that it was because of the amount of clay in the rad rather than a duff fan - whoops...

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Sorry I don't know what else you would need to do. Also depends on what you class as deep, the older tdi engines also really needed other breathers extended for example the injector pump, you also should be concerned as to the fuel cap going below water as those are breathable.

Puma engines are quite new still so I doubt many people have given them a good dunking.

CwazyWabbit - do you mean the timing case breather or is there another breather on the injector pump of a tdi engine. Been fitting it all and haven't come across a breather on the injector pump other than that.

Think you should have: 2 axles, gearbox, transferbox and timing case. Is that it? Also you need to put the bungs (threaded with seals) in the top and bottom of the bell housing? Have I missed anything?

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No viscous fan freewheels, it always pulls air. Even at a minus ambient temperature it will cool the engine.

I didn't say it stopped pulling air through the rad altogether. There is a considerable difference between airflow when the engine has just been started, and when the needle is touching the red. A properly working Viscous coupling can be stopped when its cold, thats the test for whether its functioning correctly.

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Hi - sorry to hijack slightly, but does anyone know whether Tim from the difflock forum is still supplying the coolant loss sensor? - as I'm just fitting a 300tdi and it seems a worthwhile insurance plan

Many thanks

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There are times of year that you might get away with no fan... but I wouldn't risk it.

For what my truck is used for, a viscous doesn't make sense. I have an electric fan on mine and it has only come on twice because its been needed. Both times were when I knew the rad was full of mud and not doing much cooling! I see no point what so ever in having the viscous there, yes its not spinning to its full extent when the engine is cold but it will still be moving and moving air. It is taking energy when its not needed, no one can deny that. How much... probably not noticeable if we're going to be honest but every little helps.

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I live in Colombia. In my city the common temp in a good day is 35ºC. My TD5 gets up and down in his temp, I suppose due to the viscous, same thing with the 300 of a german friend, viscous was coupling all time. One time the viscous in a Disco V8 failed and the car was overheating in minutes, so I think it's really needed. Mine can be stopped with the hand when the car is cold.

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CwazyWabbit - do you mean the timing case breather or is there another breather on the injector pump of a tdi engine. Been fitting it all and haven't come across a breather on the injector pump other than that.

Think you should have: 2 axles, gearbox, transferbox and timing case. Is that it? Also you need to put the bungs (threaded with seals) in the top and bottom of the bell housing? Have I missed anything?

Have a look here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2895 basically the injector pump needs a breather for the diaphragm in the injector pump to work.

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