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Heated wing mirrors


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I'm looking for sources for standard sized heated mirrors for a Defender, or alternatively for just the heating elements suitable for standard sized mirrors.

I bought a pair of over-sized heated mirrors a while ago, and fitted the passenger side one. I like the heating, but I don't like the way it vibrates, and it frequently blows over when travelling at more than about 50mph. I'd like to go back to standard sized mirrors, but I'd like them to be heated.

Any recommendations for suppliers of complete heated mirrors, or just the heating elements please?

Thanks

nick.

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I've just found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAN-G90-Truck-Mirror-Heating-Element-12V-Up-1988-/180714910671?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item2a1372b3cf#ht_1521wt_1374

These should fit into the mirror housing seeing as the defender housing/head is 8.5" x 5.5" (216mm x 140 mm) so that should reduce the cost of the heated mirrors a bit shouldn't it !

John

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I have the Mud Stuff mats and they're very good. They replaced some of the conventional element type that broke - they're hard to repair because they're laminated on both sides and the terminals are easily damaged; mine failed without any tension on the wire, presumably due to vibration.

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  • 5 months later...

if i want to wire a set of these in to work off the existing HRW switch - presumably i can wire them straight to the HRW relay output? - Mud ones are 1.6A draw i read i believe?

so where is the HRW relay located on a 110 Puma?

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these sound tempting for my 90. does anyone know if they can be wired into front heated screen on a 2003 td5?

Anythings possible! You can take a feed from the heated screen switch to turn a relay on for the mirrors. I was considering doing that for mine coming off the rear heated window. I was also thinking of adding a seperate switch, but I haven't decided yet!

Steve

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ahh have to confess to knowing nothing about electrics so didnt think about them having a relay and possibly a seperate switch, was looking at lazy option of i press front switch and on come mirrors.

little more reading me thinks ahead so i dont set car alight.

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Don't wire the heated mirror heads via either the front screen or the rar window.

The front screen should only be needed to be on as long as the timer relays let it be on. Then it shouldn't be needed again during a journey.

The mirrors are very different. They might need to be on a long time. They might need to be switched off before the screen timer has run its course. They might nee to be switched on a long time after the screen has switched off.

Heated mirrors are great in rain as the heat drys the glass.

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my heated rear screen is quite often on for prolonged periods, the front as you say gets less use, hence why i was looking at the rear to switch it.

the current draw is small so you can run them straight off the output from the front or rear screen relays if that was your desired switching method.

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I agree wire them on a separate switch much like my work artic truck when it's raining I've got the mirrors on all the time and thay stay quite dry, I've done that to the landy and got the wired via a relay from my aux fuse box they work a treat, got the mirrors from Newbury bigger ones than normal.

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  • 3 months later...

I still use the Mud pads regularly on my 109, run through a dash switch. My RRC has factory fitted mirror heating, run from the heated rear screen circuit (also has heated windscreen washer nozzles on the same circuit), and they are again invaluable. Our new TDCI XS has all the bells and whistles you would want in a Defender except these, so I want to it them, and will connect them to the heated rear window circuit. The problem is finding a neat wiring route - the 109's wiring runs along the corner between the bulkhead and wing top, which is fine for that vehicle but not neat enough for the 90. The Mudstuff linked sites, including the Devon one, don't seem to work - the Devon site photos seem to have been removed and the other link has been taken down completely.

I'm thinking of running the wiring down the door pillar, through the convoluted rubber tube with the C/L and electric window wiring into the door, which will keep it neat and prevent pinching or chafing, but getting a tidy route from a hole drilled behind the hinge up to the inside hollow of the arm eludes me.

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