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Extra engine mouting?


Julian

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This series three box came off the ebay and I'm doing it up. (see other thread) It came with this additional Rose jointed mount, I'm sure it's not standard. Can anyone shed any light on it?

Julian.

DSC00199.jpg

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one of the gearboxes i've used had the bracket for it but no rod, i assume its to prevent forward/backward movement of the engine/gearbox combo. i have no idea what car the box came from though :(

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lightweights had an additional tie rod here as standard - it is to reduce front to back motion. The rose jointed version could be a retrofit,. as the original had rubber bushes.

G.

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Its upside down init :)

(It took a while)

Never seen it, but have made one. It makes the hand brake sharper on a series I guess? On my race truck it stopped everything moving round before I went with captive mounts.

And I have a feeling that the Series three six potter had one with a threaded end and two rubber donuts through a bracket. But can't remember how it went to the chassis?

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The rose jointed one will transmit a lot of vivration to the chassis. That's why LR used rubber bushes instead on their tie rod.

They were fitted to all Lightweights because all Lightweights were made for military customers. Other military Series LRs were also fitted witht he same rod. It was only an optional extra, not standard, on civilian vehicles.

It prevents the engine moving fore and aft to keep the thicker fan of FFR vehicles away from the rad. It also reduces wear and tear on the main engine mounts and greatly increases hand brake effectiveness - have a look at the engine and transmission movement on a vehicle without the tie as someone else applies and releases the hand brake - they can move up to 1.5" fore and aft, which loses a lot of the effective motoin of the hand brake linkage. Fit one of these rods and you'll never wonder about fitting an X-brake again.

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Thanks snagger, very interesting. On the basis of what you say I'll leave it off.

One story - when I first got the vehicle I discovered that under heavy braking the engine revs increased. Investigation showed that the 'throttle' lever on the pump was pushing into the aircleaner, and further investigation revealed that 3 out of the 4 engine mounts were totally broken.

Some new mounting rubbers sorted that one!

Julian.

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My 88 used to do the same when the handbrake was applied. Its because they use a solid linkage connection from the bulkhead to the FIP, so as the engine moves, the throttle setting changes too. Apparently thats the reason for kangarooing too, which is something I'm startin to have problems with. It was cured on the 90/110's by using a cable instead, which doesn't change the position of the throttle setting, as the out casing is anchored to the engine, and so moves with it.

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I'd have said the best aim for the future is to 'keep' the functionality, although I agree the rose joints are excessive, and probably have a downside.

In the attached pictures, note the parts diagram shows the assembly upside down!!

The installed picture is extracted from my Pre Purchase collection, and was originally very black and oily, so I've 'enhanced' it slightly.

I refurbished mine using rubbers and shaped washers from shock absorbers having a threaded stud as the top mounting (BMC Mini rears, actually). Leaking diesel fuel from a PO designed fault condition had done for the originals.

post-118-0-58139600-1339575281_thumb.gif post-118-0-46218500-1339575306_thumb.jpg

HTH

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I beg to differ - mine had one of these rods and I still would have fitted an X-brake if they were around then.

Really? My standard had brake won't pull to the top of the ratchet anymore, now that the tansmission stays where it should, and I can park on a 1:8 slope with ease (I haven't found anywhere marked steeper, but had no trouble off road on steeper inclines in the Alps, either). I suppose if you do a lot of wading, then a disc brake has the advantage of being self cleaning, but for most users, the tie rod is all that's needed.
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Fit one of these rods and you'll never wonder about fitting an X-brake again.

Shhhh....Don't tell them that! ;)

It is true - the tie-bar makes the handbrake much more effective, but it is still the case that the X-Brake gives better holding capacity and is less affected by oil leaking on to it and abrasion from mud etc.

The biggest advantage of the tie-bar is stopping the fan ploughing into the radiator - though improving the original hand brake is an obvious plus!

Si

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Shhhh....Don't tell them that! ;)

It is true - the tie-bar makes the handbrake much more effective, but it is still the case that the X-Brake gives better holding capacity and is less affected by oil leaking on to it and abrasion from mud etc.

The biggest advantage of the tie-bar is stopping the fan ploughing into the radiator - though improving the original hand brake is an obvious plus!

Si

Sorry! :unsure:
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