Jump to content

Want to add coolant system to old milling machine


Recommended Posts

I was going to suggest RDG or Chronos. Bits are usually cheaper from them direct than via eBay however.

I had one of these on my old Lathe and it worked pretty well!

I had to replace the pump on my mill as the old one was clogged with bogies (or something that looked like bogies!). I used a similar pump from one of the above as fitted it in the base of the mill as per the original. It still works perfectly years on.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reservoir looks a little small for milling. You might want to buy a pump and make your own reservoir. I've used a 80 litre drum before. You need to be careful about the thing running dry, nothing worse than running out of coolant on the last pass!

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a 'rather large' old Beaver Turret mill with power fee, belt driven head running 3HP 240V conversion I did on it

....its so old the tooling is 'International 30' on the drive head !! ..........anyone rememebnr them ! ???

good thing is the tooling turns up real cheap :D

The "Sump" leaks, hence it had a external 3 Phase DRO + Coolant system

The table has drains in each end, so thats easy enough to link into

The 9 Litre system all conatined loks rather good, will 9 litres be enough of a sump / tank ?

Prob just need to add some sort of coarse filter to the return - again any ideas anyone ?

Nige

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personaly i'd fix your sump because if you use the drains on the table you'll still get alot running from the table to the sump... That'll fillover time, start smelling really horrid and the leak through your leaky bit.

When the drains clog on the mills at work the mess grows very rapid!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that 9l is too small. I seem to have to put about a gallon of coolant in for each job!

As Vulcan says, only a proportion of the coolant ends up passing through the table drains. The rest is sprayed everywhere by the cutter!

Quite a lot of it ends up running round the sides of the table and down the side of the knee-jack. Innevitably that will end up inside the base.

I wonder if you could effect a seal by pouring liquid sealant (PU for example) into the base to the point it starts leaking - wait for it to go off then repeat until it stops?

My base has a mesh covered plug hole in the bottom. I guess you could fabricate a funnel to fit the plug hole and mastic it in place. then connect the funnel with a hose to a separate tank?

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tank base was whallopped by a forklift many moon ago,more a chunk missing

than a crack !

found this :

http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_500wt_1414

30 litres sounds more like it - now am I barking in thinking of using a small piond pump a la :

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1747wt_1397

or even

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8W-600L-H-Mini-Aquarium-Tank-Pond-Fountain-Water-Filter-Pump-/320977859308?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item4abbc572ec

and then cobble u[p pipes to and from + filter on returns ?

Thoughts ?

Nige

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could try a pond pump, but I suspect the back pressure from the nozzle would stymie it. Oh, you need a non return valve in there too.

The barrel looks okay.

Taking Si's idea one step further could you line the reservoir in the base of the machine with a heavy duty polythene bag fill it with water and then concrete and rebar the hole.

It's architectural, in this case weight is your friend!

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a 'rather large' old Beaver Turret mill with power fee, belt driven head running 3HP 240V conversion I did on it

....its so old the tooling is 'International 30' on the drive head !! ..........anyone rememebnr them ! ???

good thing is the tooling turns up real cheap :D

mmmm..... beaver mill....... Snap I have one of those. Nice machines. Is it one of the 'PAL' of VBRP' version? Mine has a fault on the Anilam CNC controler that I have not had time to fix.

More usefully some suggestions:

have you thought about metal stitching in a repair?

Use some sheet steel and some set screws to put a patch over the hole. Seal it with some suitable seal and between the patch and base?

Put some gaffer tape over the underside of the hole, rough up the surface of the hole, degrease and fill with an non shrinking epoxy or similar. Then paint with a tank sealer or similar?

The original tank will work far better than trying to divert to an external tank IMHO.

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree - you are better off fixing the original. Even with something like Chemical Metal.

If you use a separate tank you are going to need to pump coolant from the base of the machine into the tank anyway. I guess you could bury the tank in a hole to allow a gravity feed from the base?

A pond pump intended for fountains would probably work OK.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...make a tray to sit the base in , high enough to match the sides of the base , fill with coolant , use ?

A bund tray effectively

cheers

Steveb

The tray would fill up with swarf and skank making it imho useless... hence why bridgeport and the like use the actual base.

I still think you should repair the base Nige...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Warco make some.

Believe it or not, the bridgeport clone I've been using to make the new CNC bits for my bridgeport clone, doesn't use normal coolant. He uses an air blast from a pond aerator, and its amazing how cool a 5mm cutter will stay, even when its 13mm deep in a slot 5.5mm wide. He has built an aluminium and perspex surround to his, sealed to the table with a single drain to a seperate tank.....if he evers fills it with coolant!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Warco make some.

Believe it or not, the bridgeport clone I've been using to make the new CNC bits for my bridgeport clone, doesn't use normal coolant. He uses an air blast from a pond aerator...

A jet of compressed air or a pump for an aerator is a really good way to cool work, in an enclosed mill. It would worry me in an open frame.

At work I use MA Ford tools without coolant for stainless which we need to keep a high surface finish (it can really make a massive difference)...

They are expensive, it does do away with the need for coolant.

Their speeds and feeds are ridiculously fast!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's pretty impressive!

Si

You really need the OneCNC software to, to develop paths that quick...

I scared myself silly the first time we ran this fast, it's still an ar+e clenching moment the tool changes for the first time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy