Mean Green Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Arrgghhhh!!! Why is it always the last bolt the screws up the job!!! Following on from my "Can I be lazy..." (http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=78956) thread, I can confirm that the hub can be changed without the need to strip it down fully. So full of enthusiasm, I start again to do the other side - I strip the "new" swivel from the donor with no problem and set about the recipient. Bolts on this one are a little tighter than the others but a little brute force and they are free - until the very last bolt - number 28 of 28 and the sodding thing rounds!!! So now what!!! ?? How can I remove a rounded bolt from the stub axle / axle flange when it is rounding the head? There is very little space, not enough for a socket - so bolt extractors are out. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Weld something to it. You any good with a grinder ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 mole grips/wrench/weld something to it you can turn? Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 The problem is the limited access - it is the bolts that hold the full swivel assembly onto the axle, so it can only really be accessed with a spanner. Had thought about mole grips, might try that, but first apply some heat to the bolt to see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Grind the head off, remove the swivel assy and then it will probably undo with mole grips. If it doesn't at least you will have room to drill it out. Or as above, weld a nut to it so the spanner fits, the heat might also make it a bit easier to undo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 The problem is the limited access - it is the bolts that hold the full swivel assembly onto the axle, so it can only really be accessed with a spanner. Had thought about mole grips, might try that, but first apply some heat to the bolt to see if that helps. With the heat, remember you can get it into the back of the hole it bolts into. That will help melt the threadlock. Grind the head off, remove the swivel assy and then it will probably undo with mole grips. If it doesn't at least you will have room to drill it out. Or as above, weld a nut to it so the spanner fits, the heat might also make it a bit easier to undo. This is the easiest method. Grind the head off and pull the swivel off. Once you have done that you have removed the tension on the bolt so it should come out quite easily with a bit pair of mole grips or stilsons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Irwin sell a great set of sockets designed to remove rounded bols and nuts, essential in any good tool kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Irwin sell a great set of sockets designed to remove rounded bols and nuts, essential in any good tool kit. .... except in this case there isn't room to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Quick and easy to grind the head off, remove the swivel, then worry about the bolt, as mentioned above. Last time I did it, I ended up grinding two flats in to the stub to put a spanner on it. my (not very good ) mole grips were slipping. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I had this Heat up socket with Oxy/Acet or blow lamp, both on the Bolt head AND the rear as the bolt comes "Through" SOAK with WD40, the heat will "Suck" in the WD40 don't spray it SOAK it and yes it will smoke ! SOAK and RESOAK until it looks like a smiing pol Then I had I found (can't remeber the size) a multi point (NOT a 6 Pount) Whitworth socket and smacked it on good and ****in tight with a hammer, and it came undone HTH Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 The important thing with these bolts is to start off with the correct size and type of spanner. This is assuming a previous owner hasn't mangled them for you. The 9/16" bi-hex ring spanner is your friend here. Sometimes it is possible to get a 14mm to fit, it does vary, but you want the best fit possible so I always try both. Next you want to apply force in a way that won't encourage the spanner to jump off. The bolts are always far too tight to undo with a standard length ring spanner, and I used to use No.1 tool to help. This is not ideal as the ring spanner tends to want to slip or just ruin the head of the bolt. Options to multiply torque can be as simple as a large pipe that fits over the spanner, thus increasing leverage. Alternatively you can make up a tool specific for the job I don't have a photo to hand, but it was based around SimonR's spanner torque extender. This does the job extremely well, and can be used to tighten the bolts on reassembly. However I think the best option to remove a badly damaged bolt will either be a hacksaw (if you have the patience), or a grinder with 1mm cutting disk. Gloves, eye protection etc are all recommended for both methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Thanks for all the tips. I think the grinder might be the best option although typically it is the top bolt so there is limited access due to the spring seat. Will try a bit of heat too. I knew it was all going too well!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I had this Heat up socket with Oxy/Acet or blow lamp, both on the Bolt head AND the rear as the bolt comes "Through" SOAK with WD40, the heat will "Suck" in the WD40 don't spray it SOAK it and yes it will smoke ! SOAK and RESOAK until it looks like a smiing pol Then I had I found (can't remeber the size) a multi point (NOT a 6 Pount) Whitworth socket and smacked it on good and ****in tight with a hammer, and it came undone HTH Nige Am i the only one here that can sense a disaster in the making ! ? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 worked for me and no A&E Required Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 The important thing with these bolts is to start off with the correct size and type of spanner. This is assuming a previous owner hasn't mangled them for you. The 9/16" bi-hex ring spanner is your friend here. Sometimes it is possible to get a 14mm to fit, it does vary, but you want the best fit possible so I always try both. Next you want to apply force in a way that won't encourage the spanner to jump off. The bolts are always far too tight to undo with a standard length ring spanner, and I used to use No.1 tool to help. This is not ideal as the ring spanner tends to want to slip or just ruin the head of the bolt. Options to multiply torque can be as simple as a large pipe that fits over the spanner, thus increasing leverage. Alternatively you can make up a tool specific for the job I don't have a photo to hand, but it was based around SimonR's spanner torque extender. This does the job extremely well, and can be used to tighten the bolts on reassembly. However I think the best option to remove a badly damaged bolt will either be a hacksaw (if you have the patience), or a grinder with 1mm cutting disk. Gloves, eye protection etc are all recommended for both methods. I have specially modified spanner with the open end cut off, Jack handle is then perfect for going over the end for more leverage. Thanks for all the tips. I think the grinder might be the best option although typically it is the top bolt so there is limited access due to the spring seat. Will try a bit of heat too. I knew it was all going too well!! If access is bad, then a powerfile is perfect! Luckily the ones I've had knacker the heads have been easily accessible with the grinder (and neither time I had my P.F. to hand). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Looks like there is no access for the grinder - however, I have a Sabre saw with metal cutting blade that looks like it will do the job nicely - whip the head off then see how we can get the stud out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 If the cut off stud bit gets really short due to mole grip abuse the trick is to weld on a washer and then weld the nut to that. It's easier to get a good weld on the washer to the stud and the extra heat of welding the nut on after helps. If the bolt thread is sticking out the back it may help if you cut the rusty bit off flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks for all the replies - a combination of all of them and the hub is off! I cut the head off with the sabre saw (5 Blades later!!), then heated it up, then the molegrips slipped, so I ground down flats, gave it a good heat and off it came. A quick cup of tea to celebrate and then I will get the "new" hub fitted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacrits68 Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 hello! get an set of bolt extractor sockets! I did and Im happy with that investment! //Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 These are the IRWIN ones I mentioned, you can use a 1/4" ratchet or use a ring/open ender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 No room to fit the Irwins on to the swivel flange? It's a spanner of some kind or mr Angry-Grinder.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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