CwazyWabbit Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I seem to remember you saying it was a PC style fan? Is it a stamdard looking one? because you can get some that kick out a serious amount of CFM so I'm wondering if you swapped out the fan would it help to cure the heaters asthmatic tendencies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Yeah it's a pc type 120mm but I looks to be a special one cos it's: More savage looking than I've ever seen Got swept blades like a submarine propeller Makes a right bloody racket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Sounds like one of the high CFM pc fans, I had one before that was loud enough to hear outside the house Anyway when you get done playing with the MS install (so probably another couple of years fiddling with maps ) it might be worth looking into .... although I'm thinking it's probably not the easiest thing to get to now! EDIT: This seems to be the most powerful 120mm pc fan on the market at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130520102730 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 PC fans come in all sorts of specs. As Cwazy says, there are some which shift a serious amount of CFM. My custom built PC sounds like a wind tunnel when its on... LOTS of fan power . I'll see what I can find fan-wise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 That's nothing special, a lot of the high CFM fans have that. Highest I can find at the local PC parts site for a 120mm fan is this one at 116.5 cfm: http://www.alternate.be/html/product/Scythe/GentleTyphoon_D1225C12B9AP-30/792252/? And pretty loud too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 For not much more money, you can get something pretty serious looking: http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=301&zenid=f3d7e9db616d4f1c8026c66e965e0636 8.6Kw (DT one is just 3.5Kw), three speed fans, 150W motor, 4 outlet, actually still pretty compact, and doesn't use a silly PC fan to power it... in something the size of a Disco, it's gotta be like having an asthmatic mouse blowing at you through a candle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 yeah i looked at that medium heater but wasnt sure it was necessary! if it becomes a problem, i will simplu whip the dash out again and improve the dash board demister fittings, would be better boring 50mm through the dash and fitting more efficient free flowing ducts straight through rather than spreading it though the fancy in dash moulded ducting arrangement. the fan used in the lightweight claims 190cfm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 pretty sure its this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I think you may find that fans are a bit more complicated that that unfortunately... free-air I guess the 120mm fan would be able to push that volume, but up against pipework and demister restrictors I guess it won't be able to keep up. Heater fan motors are of a very different design, and probably for a very good reason, in order to overcome the pipework restrictions, I assume it must need to create a higher pressure than the PC fans can generate... All hypothesis, but maybe someone about has more of an idea on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Look at motorbike radiator fans, bit more oomph and far more muck-n-bullets proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 oh yeah, guaranteed that the drum type fans (with around 40 blades) found in car systems are better at pushing air at a higher pressure, thats why they have 15 amp fuses and mine has a 3 amp fuse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Right chaps. Tuning is going nicely thankyou, won't bother you with nitbits until I get something I feel worth posting BUT HAD CHANCE TO PROBE MY ECU AND I HAVE 12V AT SPARE 1 BUT No 12v at spare 1 on the relay board. Probed the relay board input at got like 12.3 volts, but the S1 output 0v and no continuity either. Any ideas??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 This is spare 1 (used white for spare) and I have 12.3v here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 From your photo, it appears you've got S1 connected to something on the top row of the relay board. The S1 connection (block number 7) on the relay board is driven from pin 25 on the DB37 connector - it's on the bottom row. http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower_ShemV1.2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Right! So if the whole top row are ground, how am I not blowing fuses??!?!?! I was going off this diagram: Evidently this is the diagram for the ECU, but perhaps the relay board is wired differently to the ECU?!?! Thankyou TRE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Pinout table here confirms this: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/relay-cable.html Hmmmm confusion! (Although not confusing cos it clearly doesn't work as it is!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 From the PCB schematics of the V3 board here the above diagram is correct for the ECU. However, for whatever reason, it's different on the relay board. Something from as FF put it 'the very organic nature of the megasquirt evolution'. What mods have you made inside the ECU for the SPR1 jumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Relay board schematics: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower_ShemV1.2.pdf Looks like it just grounds the tach wire - you could swing it onto the S1 pin at the relay board end. It doesn't blow the tach up because the tach circuit uses a pullup resistor to +12v and then a small transistor to pull it to ground to generate pulses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 From the PCB schematics of the V3 board here the above diagram is correct for the ECU. However, for whatever reason, it's different on the relay board. Something from as FF put it 'the very organic nature of the megasquirt evolution'. What mods have you made inside the ECU for the SPR1 jumper? Hi TRE Thanks for that, yep the relay board must be different! It's no problem now that i, and everyone else reading this thread now knows the mod Regards inside the ecu, somewhat ashamedly i opted to have the ecu built by Nige's builder, too much like complex electronics for me perhaps! As such, i have no idea what has been done, but it uses JS0 and then goes to SPR1. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Relay board schematics: http://www.bgsoflex....er_ShemV1.2.pdf Looks like it just grounds the tach wire - you could swing it onto the S1 pin at the relay board end. It doesn't blow the tach up because the tach circuit uses a pullup resistor to +12v and then a small transistor to pull it to ground to generate pulses. Hi FF Yep, will simply remove my d37 patch lead and swap the 3 4 5 6 pins at the relay board end to the 25 27 29 31 pins, and then i shall have tacho life Thankyou for your help! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANTOINE Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 HI, I have buy the same MS, i think, and i will put on my engine this winter, if you can do a final shema, I will be happy i have see to the spare on pin 3 4 5 6 , but i don't know what is it ? for what ?? if i have good understand, you will put 3 4 5 6 on the relais card ? yes / no excuse me for my language , i am french, and all your shema are in english (cheat, why i don"t born in england ?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Antoine - the spare pins are for "extra" features like controlling electric fans, shift-light, Nitrous oxide injection, water injection, warning lights, etc. To use them you must add some components & build a circuit to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Almost have a car again...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANTOINE Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Antoine - the spare pins are for "extra" features like controlling electric fans, shift-light, Nitrous oxide injection, water injection, warning lights, etc. To use them you must add some components & build a circuit to make it work. thank you very much, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Needs more switches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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