Blanco Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I cannot see in the pics - where will the c sections go - are they internal or external to the rails? I think I can see them inside, through the holes, I presume then that the holes are to 'spot' weld through, will they be enlarged before welding? I find small holes make it hard to get the penetration on the inner layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 No progress yet mate, but I am pretty much finished on the re-wire at last. The pressbrake is working but limited to about 20" due to lack of tooling, the lathe is also working I cannot find any of my boring and threading tools so functionality is also limited. The mma and the big mig are fully functional though. As is the big compressor I bought off Less Brock, I bought it in 2007 and last weekend was the first time it's ran since I've owned it! Lol, I remember it well, whats it like plenty of CFM ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Good progress, looks like the pressbrake is a useful addition I cannot see in the pics - where will the c sections go - are they internal or external to the rails? Have you made a decision on the engine and gearbox combination now? What will the load bed be? Will it be a flat bed or will you construct drop sides, a tipper or something else? The C sections go inside the chassis rails as Blanco spotted, engine is 90% sorted, gearbox is still up in the air, it will be running an lt230 probably divorced, We're going to be building a tipper body with drop sides ourselves, I'm not sure whether to Fab it up out of steel of ally. I do quite like the aluminium extrusion type bodies but I've not really looked into where I can buy the extruded components from. I presume then that the holes are to 'spot' weld through, will they be enlarged before welding? I find small holes make it hard to get the penetration on the inner layer. The holes were enlarged to 10mm before welding, no problems with penetration just turn the power up! Lol, I remember it well, whats it like plenty of CFM ?Seems to charge up really quickly, and its a lot quieter than I would have thought as well.Got the other chassis rail done tonight and tacked the rear crossmember in so I could have a look at the rear spring mountings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 can i have your welder please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymorris Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Dan Have a look on service metals website , they sell the extrusions / fittings to make the drop sides etc , they've got a branch in Stoke and probably deliver to your neck of the woods . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Started mocking up rear spring mounts and noticed something very odd, the rear axle was spring over and the front is spring under! I'm not sure what advantage Volvo saw in mounting the springs opposite, but it does work nicely with the flat chassis so I may keep the arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 They do that on the 303 too. My guess is that the rear springs are fat enough to resist wrap but perhaps the fronts aren't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 And so is the 101! Yes indeed Fridge that sounds like a possible reason. Just been under an Austin Gypsy today at a local vintage car meet, and it had Anti Wrap bar as standard in the front! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 They do that on the 303 too. My guess is that the rear springs are fat enough to resist wrap but perhaps the fronts aren't. I wondered that but the rear springs have less leaves than the front? Another thought I had was that mounting them this way allows the spring to be closer to the load. And so is the 101! Yes indeed Fridge that sounds like a possible reason. Just been under an Austin Gypsy today at a local vintage car meet, and it had Anti Wrap bar as standard in the front! Any pics? I'm going to have some wrap control front and rear and I'm short on space up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 It's quite weak even for one of my theories to be honest! From memory, the C303 actually had lower control arms on the rear axle, I assume some cunning calculation had gone on to ensure the arms didn't bind as the leaf flexed because it was nice and simple as anti-wrap etc. goes. I'll see if I can dig up any piccies over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 sounds very hinteresting FF look forward to seeing any pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I would've thought the flatter springs are the less side to side waggle they would allow of the body and if its intended to carry weight that would be a good thing else the tail might wag the dog. Also I would've thought thicker flatter springs would alter less in height between loaded and unloaded height than a really curved one. Also all that load is sat on the axle rather than hanging from it by a couple of bolts. But I'm only guessing I'm going to look if the pickup & truck are spring over or under... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Not the clearest as they don't show the axle, but this is the bar: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_s Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 you can just about see the bars in these pics, which helps explain the exploded view FF posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 nice, i guess to a certain extent, the softness of the spring that is the very cause of wrap, would also be what allows the anti wrap bar to work without binding up. i.e. im sure the axle will rotate slightly as it cycles up and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Found a little more time to work on the rear spring mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 where can i get one of those floating grinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 where can i get one of those floating grinders? Same shop as you buy pre-made welds like these!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Mmmmm... Welding Porn.... HOFS skills still abound..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 YUM!youll have to let me know who supplies those welds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Yeah that's what I would class as a decent weld How's working with leafs suiting you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Apologies if I've missed it dan but why does the box on top of the chassis stop short of the end? I thought it would be ther bottom one that did that to allow bump travel, or is it just for holding the chassis together for fab? OR have I pictured the chassis downside up? Will the zuk fit on the back of this when it's done? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 You could have at least cleaned off the mill scale, sheesh ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Apologies if I've missed it dan but why does the box on top of the chassis stop short of the end? I thought it would be ther bottom one that did that to allow bump travel, or is it just for holding the chassis together for fab? OR have I pictured the chassis downside up? Will the zuk fit on the back of this when it's done? Will. The box section underneath the main rails is just a jig to hold it all parallel, we are planning a 6'x11' tipping body that will fit the jimny in easily. You could have at least cleaned off the mill scale, sheesh ... I think you need help lewis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffDee Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Proper job there buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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