Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic19477.html Si wouldn't post this for fear of having someone say spam but I think this news will be useful if your thinking of making your Land Rover less nickable ! Keep the ideas coming Si N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wig887 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 theiving scum !! the post was right though that said you only have to look on ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Dear Admin, I'd like to report Mr Fromhell for promoting a competing forum Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 That was a pretty determined attack by the sounds of it, pretty brazen as well considering it was in his drive at the time and then to come back to collect their stuff that they left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Think this effects evertbody with a defender. There was an article in our local rag about someone who had lost a complete defender not recovered, replaced it and then rear doors nicked twice, and side doors once in a low risk post code area!!!0 Partial solution is to get 5mm stainless- steel ball bearings - squirt "no nails" in the torq screws hoilding the hinges - insert the ball bearings and then reverse a centre-punch and tap it with a hammer to knock it into the torq screw head. so the pikies cannot undo the torq screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 For the door hinges, I'd recommend getting some security bolts - they are just standard M8 size and easy to buy. I've bought several from this site: http://www.securityfastenersandfixings.co.uk/Default.aspx The rear door hinges are a bit more tricky as the hinge pin bolt is unusual. I'd recommend welding the nut to the bolt, then using security bolts to attach to the body. Also, cut off the lock / unlock lever on the inside so the door only locks from the outside. Then, if the rear quarter light window is removed, it doesn't help access. The current supposed 'security' bonnet hinges are mostly rubbish and if anything easier to remove than the original ones (I have a cunning plan for that) Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 .... The current supposed 'security' bonnet hinges are mostly rubbish and if anything easier to remove than the original ones (I have a cunning plan for that) Si Sounds interesting, will we get a preview? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Having the standard alarm fitted to my 110 it looks like 3 options here for me. 1) Add a second set of horns on a separately fused circuit. To guarantee the sound and hopefully this will be deterrent enough when opening the doors. 2) Snip the OBD port cable. You know what - Haven't used it in 3 years - if I need to use it I can figure out then how to get it back together..... 3) Hammer a dent to every panel not dented already! Hopefully this will make it awkward enough for them to walk away from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Sounds interesting, will we get a preview? As always, the preview will be on here! I value your (collective) input & feedback more than any. 2) Snip the OBD port cable. You know what - Haven't used it in 3 years - if I need to use it I can figure out then how to get it back together..... It may be different on Puma's, but on a Td5, you can disable the immobiliser without touching the ODB port. However, snipping / moving might give you a warm, fluffy feeling - so there's no harm in it! Someone on D2 suggested connecting all the pins of the port to +12v. Same goes for that, it's highly unlikely to damage the device you plug in to it. Maybe something like a cooker ingniter at 10kv might be worth a go (through a resistor so it will just sting a bit without causing injury to the nice thief). That would probably fry the input & output stages of the ODB box. I've done a bit of research in to hard to cut cables - and the best so far is stainless braiding (like you would use to cover your engine hoses if you had a Saxo) over Dynema winch cable. Easy to cut with a disk cutter - but damn hard with cable shears, knives or bolt croppers. Cutting small bunches of stands individually with good wire cutters was the quickest - but still slow. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Over-Braid-Sleeving-Overbraid-Braided-Hose-Pipe-Rubber-Fuel-/290697439929?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&var=590061505350&hash=item43aeeaeab9 On D2, there is a thread about someone who has added copper bonding straps between the bonnet & bulkhead as a 'security thing' - I guess he doesn't own a multi-tool with pliars, so figures nobody will be able to cut them? However, something similar with the stainless over dyneema might be an option for that. You could do similar on the doors so even if the hinge bolts are removed, you cannot open it? Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Anyone going to the Newbury sort out tomorrow ? count how many police you see taking a close look at the stuff for sale. There's various micro dot and smart marking systems about, so why no routine checking of parts ? Spend a small fortune on security, If it's been marked out for attention it'll still get taken/stripped/damaged. The profit in stolen parts must huge, the chances of being caught next to zero and the punishment ineffective. Does anyone ever go looking for bits of their stolen trucks or is it just a case forget it when the insurance cheque arrives ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 It's slightly different, but when my 90 caught fire and was written off by the insurance - it was supposed to have been crushed by Hewitts in Birmingham. I'd asked for the return of personal belongings and contents - but was told it was too late, it had been destroyed. However, a few weeks later, identifiable bits of it started turning up on eBay. Initially, the insurers denied that this was possible, but after providing evidence they launched an 'investigation'. I positively identified the chassis, roll cage, shock mounts, engine, gear and transfer box (easy as I had modified all of them, even though the numbers had mysteriously vanished. After a few months, the insurer came back and said there was insufficient evidence to take any action! I consider the parts 'stolen'. It showed that nobody really cares! The only people who do care are us - and thus we are the only ones who can do anything about it! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Difficult to know who the biggest crooks are, the thieves or the insurance companies. With the ammount of thefts I fail to see why the police don't turn up at an event mob handed and start poking about, even if it's only for the detterent effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I still think an electric fence energizer powered from the batteries that is only disarmed by a separate fob is an effective solution, and yes as long as there are sufficient signs around the property it is perfectly legal . But I am a Discovery owner and our parts are not so in demand nor quite so easy to steal, but it does still worry me due to the value of engines and gearboxes over here, I alerted authorities to a RHD 90 CSW for sale less it's engine and gearboxes, another one stolen from the UK raped and dim wits tried to sell the rest on for more money, but like you Si, I had another issue with a TD5 130 that I considered buying as it was basically stripped out but had all parts less engine and gearboxes and front end due to it being accident damaged, and like your truck it was a total loss and was supposed to be destroyed, imagine how surprised that guy was when the police showed up along with criminal investigations crew to start pulling his life apart, gonna be a long court case but I am looking forward to seeing the end result as the punishments here are a lot more harsh than the UK for being involved in ringing and associated activities!!! Apart from locking it up in a garage there are limited options that does not make life harder on yourself when you are the one who actually wants to work on your own truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Just a little idea, re the torx bolts, i had some railings installed in my house and the wall fasteners are torx, but the blokes who installed them had hardened plugs that go into the torx hole making them flush (visually pleasing). Now when you install these plugs there is no way of undoing the bolts unless you chop the heads off or if lucky try to drill them. I wonder if these would be a good idea for the defender door hinge problem. As getting special bolts with a special tool is still not secure as the tool can be bought over the counter. Luckily we do not seem to have such a problem down here....................... G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Re the hinge problem, could we not contrive hinge bolts? I mean 2 studs on the front edge of the door that engages with holes in the B or C posts as the door closes. If the stud had a roller, or was hardened it would be hard to hacksaw through. You could remove the hinges then but the door wouldn't come out of the aperture. I have similar on outward facing doors at home. Might be an idea for simonr? I'm planning to experiment along these lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Just a little idea, re the torx bolts, i had some railings installed in my house and the wall fasteners are torx, but the blokes who installed them had hardened plugs that go into the torx hole making them flush (visually pleasing). Now when you install these plugs there is no way of undoing the bolts unless you chop the heads off or if lucky try to drill them. I wonder if these would be a good idea for the defender door hinge problem. As getting special bolts with a special tool is still not secure as the tool can be bought over the counter. Luckily we do not seem to have such a problem down here....................... G I agree that hardened plugs would help. Does anybody supply Clutch - Head bolts that would fit ? From memory these are one directional, and to remove, have to be drilled and possibly extracted using a screw extractor, which takes time and makes a lot of noise. We have to get away from anything where the Pikies can buy a simple tool to remove fixings. As well as being like dung beetles ( able to lift 6 times their own body weight in stolen metal) they have access to the internet and stolen credit cards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_B Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Re the hinge problem, could we not contrive hinge bolts? I mean 2 studs on the front edge of the door that engages with holes in the B or C posts as the door closes. If the stud had a roller, or was hardened it would be hard to hacksaw through. You could remove the hinges then but the door wouldn't come out of the aperture. I have similar on outward facing doors at home. Might be an idea for simonr? I'm planning to experiment along these lines That is one of the easiest things to do, if there is room enough. Can't check if that is posible as I haven't owned a Defender in 10 years. Or a system like this would work. http://wolfvansecurity.com/product/deadbolt.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 But they'll just smash the window and open the door from the inside. Or get past the laughable door locks and open it that way. Then they can just undo the bolts and lift it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I dont think getting inside a Series/defender is the problem. We all know they can nick anything inside at will. The problem is stopping Pikies nicking doors, or bonnets. Maybe anti-tamper hardened clutch head bolts might help. Somebody must make them?? You cannot stop `em. You can only make it too difficult or not worth the risk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Ball bearings glued in the hinge screws with epoxy make drilling them out a challenge or simply filling the heads with a decent clear silicone sealant will theoretically slow down thieving scrotes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 .... Maybe anti-tamper hardened clutch head bolts might help. Somebody must make them?? ..... You can buy a special screwdriver for removing clutch head screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Maybe just filling the screw head recess in the hinges with body filler would slow them down enough? But if you want to go to town weld some steel blanks over the screw heads in the recess in the hinge? Just variations on Steves idea of gluing a ball bearing in the screw head though I guess. Maybe a hardened steel blank the size of the screwhead (glued in) would be harder to dig out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 But even with all that they can just open the door and undo the nuts on the inside and away it comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Erm, are we all missing the obvious though? What about the loctite that needs heat to remove? Would that stop them, or is it not really that strong on the diameter of a hinge screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Adding a random thought; could you attach the hinges using an Ikea cabinet style fixing? So the bolt head would be a blank and pulled tight by a turned fixing accessible from inside the cab. You can still get the doors off but you at least have to get them open first. May be difficult to adjust the door gaps tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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