sharpy Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi all Recently my blower blew it's fuse, replaced it only to get the same result. There is heat trickling through from the movement of the truck, but no where near enough. I know I've to check wiring and also check to see the fan isn't stuck and moves. But whilst doing this and having read up, it points to the blower being seized, so question is, can I fit a better blower motor? I've been looking and they all look similar? I know pictures can be deceptive, but my thinking is a blower unit from a freelander or transit look similar, I've been in both and it's always toasty warm and you can feel the air moving, unlike the truck? It's a 91 110 with a disco 200tdi inside, heater unit is standard defender. Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Most vehicles have through flow ventilation nowadays, meaning that they also have exit vents to allow the air to "flow" this is also good for getting rid of condensation..............an age old Land Rover problem. Unless you have aircon. I dont THINK the newer Defenders have this, (exit vents) but I may be wrong. The late eighties 90/110 had vents at the back end of the roof which helped a lot, but were deleted for some reason, which IMO was a backward step. Probably done because people moaned about all the "warm" air going straight out and the vehicle being cold ! A long time ago, and this applied to a lot of old and classic cars too, which also had Smiths blowers fitted, was to fit the fan off a late MGB sports car, which was a plastic higher capacity thing.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I think the vents were because they let wet in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 There's a guy in Salisbury on eBay that sells some sort of resistor to improve fan speed, I fitted it on mine and my truck gets toasty warm.... that'll be simonb on here, I've got one in my 110 too, works well, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 The blower on my 90 is actually pretty decent - after I figured out the switch wouldn't go to the second position! After some adjustments full speed was restored.. I think the full speed setting is 12v to the fan so changing the resistor won't make any difference... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi all Recently my blower blew it's fuse, replaced it only to get the same result. There is heat trickling through from the movement of the truck, but no where near enough. I know I've to check wiring and also check to see the fan isn't stuck and moves. But whilst doing this and having read up, it points to the blower being seized, so question is, can I fit a better blower motor? I've been looking and they all look similar? I know pictures can be deceptive, but my thinking is a blower unit from a freelander or transit look similar, I've been in both and it's always toasty warm and you can feel the air moving, unlike the truck? It's a 91 110 with a disco 200tdi inside, heater unit is standard defender. Cheers Paul if the motor/fan turns by hand & not by elect power the resistor block or the switch resistor track maybe broken. the left hand slider works the fan speed, might need a look at the printed track for breaks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Make sure that the 3 Bowden cables from the dashboard heat/volume levers are actually moving the flaps on the heater-box itself: lack of lubrication and rust can mean that rather than the cables operating the levers on the heater-box the outer cable sheaths move in their clamps and the flaps stay in whatever position they feel like. With the ignition on and the fan-speed lever fully down, but the engine not running, you should be able to hear the motor whirring - if it's not you either have an electrical fault, a seized motor, or - it has been known round here with low-usage vehicles - your heater airbox has been invaded by the local rodent population who are using it as somewhere dry to cache their winter supply of nuts and berries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hiya Thanks all for the replies, I wasn't that clear earlier? I think my blower motor is cap-put! I know there are some checks to do to determine this, ( already checked for movement on the cables, all ok) I'm edging my bets, as I will probably have to replace the motor or do some work to it I thought I would replace it with a superior unit. that was my main question, has anyone put in another more powerfull blower from another vehicle? Transit, freelander etc? I didn't really want to go to great expense buying an aftermarket improved one as I can't justify the spend. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 there's a thread in tech archive/Defender forum about fitting a bilge blower fan into the heater air intake, a search should make it appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1joe Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I was going to start a new thread but noticed this one, Can anyone see any draw back in connecting the inlet back into the cab? As i have tubular wing kit fitted which means the heater inlet box wasn’t fitted, which in turn caused the fan to seize and fill with mud and water. I have since un-seized the motor and cleaned the heater box assembly and rectified the poor bulkhead seal. But i now need to stop this happening again so i was considering connecting the heater inlet back into the cab via some 80mm flex pipe through the bulkhead into the cab around the footwell area. The other option could be running a snorkel for the heater inlet but don’t really want another snorkel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 there's a thread in tech archive/DEfender forum about fitting a bilge blower fan into the heater air intake, a search should make it appear. A bilge blower is better than a series heater fan, but not as good as a defender one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 If you recirculate the air the whole car will fog up. You need fresh air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Can anyone see any draw back in connecting the inlet back into the cab? As i have tubular wing kit fitted which means the heater inlet box wasn’t fitted, which in turn caused the fan to seize and fill with mud and water. About 10 years ago, I made such a thing! There is a thread somewhere which includes a diagram from about a year ago. Essentially I just connected a tube from the passenger footwell to the heater inlet box with a flap on top of the wing which sealed the fresh air inlet. This could also be closed when wading to stop the thing filling up and when open acted as an air-scoop (though I don't think the scoop made much difference). Once the cab had de-misted, the re-circulation worked pretty well to improve the heat output. A fair bit of the condensation came from rain entering the inlet, so often re-circulated air wasn't any worse. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I optimised the opening size where the heater meets the bulkhead , doubled up on the seal, and carefully set up the cables , also make sure you have a good thermostat. It gets quite toasty in the sw now ! 300tdi (auto) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Having flushed the system, blown out the heater matrix, lubricated and adjusted the cables etc my 300Tdi heater appears to be working well. Certainly, got too hot last week with outside temp of 3C. I noticed that Haynes reckon the 300 thermostat should be 88C whilst the 200 is 80C - would make a big difference to cab temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I replaced my thermostat a few weeks back (200tdi) and since then the engine gets up to temp in a fraction of the time and it gets toasty warm. We've even taken to turning the blower off on some trips as it gets too hot. Wished I'd done this years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_90 Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 The 300tdi thermostat is 88c and the 200tdi is 82c. The 2 are not the same fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 200TDI is 88C, not 82C as per the genuine workshop manual and every OEM thermostat. The biggest restriction is the lower vents. Openning these up will improve air flow a lot. The bulk head is not that restrictive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 My 200Tdi was fitted recently with a genuine parts stat which was stamped 88 degrees as above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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