RocKeR Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 ...so where would one recommend I look to get nylon cable glands for 25/35 mm2 cable? Also, how have people attached the cable to the car when running from front to rear? I thought I would simply cable tie them onto the chassis rail. Finally, where can I get those nice rubbery winch control switches for mounting externally? Ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 My cable runs along the top of the chassis rails and are stuck to the rail where nothing exists to tie them to what cable glands are you refering to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocKeR Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 For rear winch, an EP9 i picked up at Sodbury for a mere £85 (), I will be mounting the battery and contactor insode the car, so I need to run the cables through the floor or out through the side of the winch tray. Also I need to run the split charge cables back into the floor from the chassis rail. When you say stuck to the rail, Tony, surely you can always get cable ties long enough to go right round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 CEF in Foundry way (Horsham) do the cable glands you refer to. Si For rear winch, an EP9 i picked up at Sodbury for a mere £85 (), I will be mounting the battery and contactor insode the car, so I need to run the cables through the floor or out through the side of the winch tray. Also I need to run the split charge cables back into the floor from the chassis rail.When you say stuck to the rail, Tony, surely you can always get cable ties long enough to go right round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 could do Graham but at ther rear by the spring seat it was awkward so I used silicon to hold the cable bunch there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 could do Graham but at ther rear by the spring seat it was awkward so I used silicon to hold the cable bunch there. Annother option if you really want to go belts and braces is to weld studs (or nuts) to the chassis rail and use P-clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 ive cliped mine to the chassis , using stainless steel 'p' clips with rubber inserts , using self tapping screws in to the chassis got my cable glands from SED in guilford , i bought the last 25 on the shelf last week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Annother option if you really want to go belts and braces is to weld studs (or nuts) to the chassis rail and use P-clips. I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. Why not run cables inside the chassis rails? or are they full of mud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. Agreed ........... if you want to do that then its probably better to use a hilti and fire 3/8 studs in with red /black charges ......prolly better then Will's welding by all accounts Even P clips self tapped in the chassis is still a bit OTT (although a nice finish) ........ commercial aerial riggers cable ties will do the job nicely ........ wide enough that they wont dig into the cable and super strong. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 cable ties made by gods! easy/cheap/quick and endless uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. Can't you get a tubular chassis with the wires pre run. As it's tubular there will be no chance of chaffing! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Annother option if you really want to go belts and braces is to weld studs (or nuts) to the chassis rail and use P-clips. Not sure how that would cope with the mud/rust. Why not cross drill the studs before welding them to the chassis then you could fasten your P-clips with stainless R-clips for quick easy assembly/dissassembly when you need to the upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. I read in one of the mags that Simon Buck does this on the vehicles he builds, because he has some major hang up about cable ties. Me, well I keep about 1000 on hand "just in case" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 And someone else is paying the labour bill perhaps? Also as it is an advert for a buisness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 cable ties made by gods! Agreed, i've used platic cable tie mounts, riveted to the chassis rails every 8" or so, and then cable tie the wires to the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 As has already been said Graham, CEF for the glands, Cables run along the top of the Chassis and cable tied to the chassis/whatever is there. By rubbery waterproof switches, I presume you mean the toggle type in/out switches? I got mine from SED in Guildford (on the slyfield ind estate) alternatly, Tail lift switches are water proof - also available from SED or there are plenty on eBlag. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Graham, you do have friends to hand in Horsham. Why do you lay yourself open to the weird and wonderfull rantings from the likes of Will Worm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Will Worm? B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocKeR Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 Graham, you do have friends to hand in Horsham.Why do you lay yourself open to the weird and wonderfull rantings from the likes of Will Worm? I thought I'd try and step out into the big wide world on my own, dad, but there's scary people out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 I'm starting to see why your progress is SO slow, I have never heard of such a completely ridiculous waste of time and materials. Sorry Graham, I dissagree! I've not done this yet as I've been too busy making watercooled fairleads Seriously, I've always used cableties to hold my wiring to the top of the chassis (both front and rear). I've never had any issues and I'm going to continue doing it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 P-clip held on with a pop-rivet. Dead easy and looks very nice. Cable ties round the chassis - tut!! Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocKeR Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 Thanks Will, that was my first thought too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 P-clip held on with a pop-rivet. Dead easy and looks very nice.Cable ties round the chassis - tut!! Les. Very true, Les, but cable ties can be easily cut / replaced mid event if you need to get at the cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NASdiesel Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 You might find these switches useful although they are stateside: http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rocker...erswitch40.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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