Soren Frimodt Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 that is simply a mistake from ny side gazzar I obviously ment a narrower body, the "hips" as we call them in Denmark that arrived in the body of the S2 and has carried on ever since, is of course a widening of the body and therefore there is greater room for the wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 I thought that. Until I was working on them! They actually made the cab smaller when the s2 was designed, above the waist. Not below the waist wider. Measure and see. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Since we're mentioning it, I run 37x12.50 R16's, the D2 box was chosen for its fatter sector shaft. @FF, The D2 box, does it have the same 4 bolt pattern as the Defender box? Also does the shaft splines match? I'm wondering dues to it's larger sector shaft can it be used as a replacement to the Defender box? A person could say that it could be an upgrade to the stock steering box if it's a simple swap in. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 This is what we have. IH Scout box & arm - takes LR ball joint Defender Collumm Jaguar "prop shaft" Jaguar pump Vehicle runs on 235's and this worked very well with both the 2.25 turbo & 2.5 N/A diesel it has had. When the 200 Tdi goes in I will keep this box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Think you might need to get your measuring tape calibrated mate There is an exact (by LR standards) difference of 95mm's or almost two inches each side. So no small difference imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Sorry,, may be you are right! It's just that the last series 1 I was working on was much bigger in the cab than my series 3 and it could take a series 2 axle no bother - but is was a late series 1, so maybe they changed them? Here's a picture in English measurements (I don't understand those mm things from France) of the width of my series 3 across just under the vents, can you measure yours at the same place? In English? Put my docile mind to rest please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 maybe they did? I don't know, I've never heard of it before though. Yes mine measures exactly the same( I can see it from the 153cm's it says on your measuring tape) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 All good fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Back in the '90s, we used a IH Scout power steering box for the Hybrid. Simple & strong. No leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSF Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 For all sorts of reasons I went for the Heystee system on my 2B rebuild. I had no choice as there was not enough room on the Forward Control to fit any of the other setups (the steering box would have to have been about a foot in front of the bumper!) The Heystee ram based system is not cheap, but it is very easy to fit with no chassis mods at all, you simply take off the rod between the idler and the arm on the nearside hub and replace it with the ram (bolts onto the dead-iron and a ball joint onto the nearside wheel arm and then fit the supplied rod between the idler and the valve on the ram. The 200 TDI pump runs it fine and you just need to plumb it in. If you want to revert to the old system just reverse the procedure. On the road it seems fine and not at all "notchy" as some had suggested it might be. As I say, not cheap, but very simple to fit and my only option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 watching with interest as I want to make the series I rebuilt when I was 15 more usable for the old man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Well an update. Got a p38a box and shaft. Having trouble finding a Defender steering column. Does anyone know the differences between a Disco1 steering column and a Defender one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Disco/RR are very different to Defender, defender one will basically bolt into a Series bulkhead. Disco/RR can be done (I've seen it done) but it's a lot more hacking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well an update.Got a p38a box and shaft. Having trouble finding a Defender steering column. Does anyone know the differences between a Disco1 steering column and a Defender one? As FF says, they are different, defender will pretty much bolt straight in, I'm also looking for a defender column at the moment for mine, so far I have missed one on ebay that went for almost £60 plus postage. It had all the mounting brackets thong I'm sure you can get a cheaper one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Last one I bought cost me £2 off eBay, don't hit me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Here's one on eBay, still low..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LandRover-Defender-90-110-Steering-Column-QMB101620-2-5TD-Turbo-Diesel-36-Spline-/201364744649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ee24629c9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Anyone know the differences in Defender steering columns? The one listed above says 2.5TD and 36 spline. Is this the steering wheel end, or the UJ end? Did they change. I've managed to acquire a Defender column now, but I don't know what age it is. I want to buy a new upper UJ for it. But the ones on ebay seem to list vehicles to 1997 only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 thats the steering wheel end. if like me you want to keep the series steering wheel spline count (although i have a metro wheel) you will require a 48 spline column they kept swapping between the spline counts to keep things confusing, although 300TDI defenders match series columns (48 spline) and the one i was looking at the other day (TDCI) was 48 spline however i dont know if they swapped back and forth between the 2. the UJ end should be the same, its kind of irrelevant anyway as the pas box requires different splinage so you will have to mix and match UJ's anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 quick update, my PAS box arrived the other day, it looks extremely tidy, still completely covered in black (original not repainted) paint, and no leaks are evident! £60 not a bad price IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 thats the steering wheel end. if like me you want to keep the series steering wheel spline count (although i have a metro wheel) you will require a 48 spline column they kept swapping between the spline counts to keep things confusing, although 300TDI defenders match series columns (48 spline) and the one i was looking at the other day (TDCI) was 48 spline however i dont know if they swapped back and forth between the 2. the UJ end should be the same, its kind of irrelevant anyway as the pas box requires different splinage so you will have to mix and match UJ's anyway Ta. There must be something with the UJ's. I've seen several listings like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251068314429?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT That state Defender to 1997. I have the p38a shaft already, so was wanting to split one of the UJ's and build it up with a Defender one, so it should then fit the box with the standard UJ and the column with the Defender one. But didn't really want to end up buying bits just for trial and error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I see your dilemma, I was just going to take my shaft down to the local parts place when I get it and find one that fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 My P38 lower colum fit the Defender uper column without any alteration to the UJs. The only change was to slacken the pinch bolt to adljust the length at the slip joint. I used a TD5/TDCI column and wheel with Tdi switchgear and shroud (fog light switch on the column rather than dash), but that is a minor detail that can be wired up either way. I used the Def switches to fit inside the shroud as the upper colum length differs from SIII, preventing the original shroud looking neat and the steering wheel wount cancel the SIII indicator switch. It dir mean a lot of messing about with wiring, not so much for the light/indicator switch which uses almost all the same colour codes, but for the wiper switch as I decided to use the Def one instead of the old SIII dash knob (easier to use the lever type once installed) - that one has a lot of revised colour coding, so you need to play around with a multimeter. The PAS box, lower column and pump are plain and unaltered P38, with the steel pipes cut and altered with flexible hoses from a hydraulics specialis (the work cost me £20). The drag link is the P38 part cut down and tapped to take a standard LR rod end (same between P38 and Def/late SIII) with a bolt on bracket for the steering damper (SIII/Def/RRC). The steering lock is limited by the damper, but I am using a Discovery front axle. All thoroughly documented and photographed on my blog. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfurzer Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 On 5/13/2015 at 1:10 AM, Soren Frimodt said: have a look in my thread on the 80" I fitted it inboard, does require quite some modding to the chassis though. But a much neater solution IMO. But whichever way you choose to fit it, I'll highly recommend the p38 box. Both better and smaller than a defender unit. Hi - I can’t find your 80” thread despite a search. can you show me a link, or perhaps repost the info for fitting the steering box inside the chassis rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 As some know, we took a very different route : We did this conversion some 25 years ago - Power steering box : IH Scout - Power steering pump : ex. Citroen - Steering column : Ninety - Collapsible column : Jaguar / Ninety - Hydraulic hoses : Pirtek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 I’d like to keep my series upper column when I do mine but I thing there’s a certain measurement I need for having the upper column inner welded to the P38 splined section to fit into the UJ. I thought I saw something on YT a while ago but I can’t find it so will keep looking unless anyone has those details? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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