Show me your power steering setups

[Soren Frimodt]

3 hours ago, rfurzer said:

Hi - I can’t find your 80” thread despite a search.

can you show me a link, or perhaps repost the info for fitting the steering box inside the chassis rail?

Here you go page 13 and a bit onward

[Wytze]

Why not use a defender column, and cut the outer tube from the defender one and weld on the series bit?  It will keep it strong.  And you would allready have the mountingpoint and bearing at the bottem.  

[Bigj66]

9 minutes ago, Wytze said:

Why not use a defender column, and cut the outer tube from the defender one and weld on the series bit?  It will keep it strong.  And you would allready have the mountingpoint and bearing at the bottem.  

I need the series top spline to keep my wheel and dash standard which is why they do the joining of the two systems at the bottom of the upper column. So they cut off the worm drive and weld on the spline.

[Chicken Drumstick]

49 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

I’d like to keep my series upper column when I do mine but I thing there’s a certain measurement I need for having the upper column inner welded to the P38 splined section to fit into the UJ.

I thought I saw something on YT a while ago but I can’t find it so will keep looking unless anyone has those details?

It might not effect you. But if you plan to compete in trails events, some regs will not allow custom welded steering components.

[Wytze]

Some countries don't want it either.   There are two types of defender boss splines, if i'm not mistaken? 

[Jon White]

Don’t do it. Use the defender column. If you find the correct one the splines are the same as series so your existing steering wheel will fit - it just puts the wheel a couple of inches closer to the driver. All the rest of the dash will still fit no problems

[greenmeanie]

I had a similar idea with a desire to keep the original Series steering wheel and indicator stalks etc.

The usual caveats apply to all steering mods as I found out where some places are fine with welded steering columns and in others it is verboten. I had welded my column in my truck when I lived in the US but when I moved the truck to Switzerland I had to remove it and find an alternate solution. I ended up with a solution that can be made with very simple machining and mainly hand tools in the garage. After several years of playing games trying to get a Series column machined down and figuring out how to do splines cheaply it was a simple and cheap solution in the end.

I used the upper column from the SIIA. I made a bracket from a piece of 1/4 wall square tube I got cheap as an offcut from the local metal supply place. This was simply shaped using an angle grinder and holes applied with a drill so can be made in your average garage. I added a web for some practice welding but it is not necessary. I then bought a used NTC9068 Defender steering column. For an original appearance in the cab it is important to use this part as it has the 48 splines that match the Late SIIA 3 spoke steering wheel as opposed to the 36 spline version which requires a Defender wheel. I removed the inner column and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom turned down to 19mm for 150mm from the end which was about $30 at the local tractor repair shop. Flaming River sell UJs with 3/4-48 splines to mate to you collapsible link. It all then bolts together. Obviously this was done in the US using a Scout box so your linkage may be simpler using a P38 box in the UK.

For what its worth I forgot to mention I used a mounted bearing from McMaster-Carr but you should easily find an equivalent at a UK supplier. 

https://www.mcmaster.com/5967k82

 

   

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[MattMatt]

I know this is an old thread but I’ve come to the end of my engineering know how so need an engineer to comment.

I’ve  made a new steering shaft to link my defender column to the D2 PS box.  To cut the 47 splines for the defender UJ end I’ve had to mill down the new shaft to 17mm dia so it will fit into the dividing head.  Bearing in mind I use my LR for ‘enthusiastic’ RTV with 235/85 Insa Turbos, is this a bit thin?  The original D2 shaft isn’t much bigger 

[NRS91]

4 hours ago, MattMatt said:

I know this is an old thread but I’ve come to the end of my engineering know how so need an engineer to comment.

I’ve  made a new steering shaft to link my defender column to the D2 PS box.  To cut the 47 splines for the defender UJ end I’ve had to mill down the new shaft to 17mm dia so it will fit into the dividing head.  Bearing in mind I use my LR for ‘enthusiastic’ RTV with 235/85 Insa Turbos, is this a bit thin?  The original D2 shaft isn’t much bigger 

 

My main concern would be the lack of a slip joint in the event if a crash

[Bowie69]

47 minutes ago, NRS91 said:

My main concern would be the lack of a slip joint in the event if a crash

Having a crash in a land rover would be the main concern if you asked me.... Steering slip joint or not, you are going to get hurt.

[NRS91]

4 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Having a crash in a land rover would be the main concern if you asked me.... Steering slip joint or not, you are going to get hurt.

Slip joint stops you being impaled on the steering column or having the steering wheel crush your chest... id like to improve my odds where possible

[Bowie69]

Fully appreciate that, in an old land rover, probably a bit like protecting an egg with a single layer of tissue!

[MattMatt]

9 hours ago, NRS91 said:

Slip joint stops you being impaled on the steering column or having the steering wheel crush your chest... id like to improve my odds where possible

Isn’t the funny D2 triangle joint on the lower right the slip joint like a D2?

[FridgeFreezer]

17 hours ago, NRS91 said:

My main concern would be the lack of a slip joint in the event if a crash

The coupling on the right hand side is the slip joint, in an crash it slides down and pops the coupling apart - I poppped one just by dropping it on the floor and had to weld it up a bit better to get it to stay together.

[MattMatt]

Think Ive worked this out - sort of.  A 13mm (0.5”) cold rolled steel shaft has Tmax of 265ft/lb (apparently) which is probably more than my 6ft 16st frame will exert on a standard steering wheel, so my thought is a 17mm shaft should be more than enough? 

[missingsid]

2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

The coupling on the right hand side is the slip joint, in an crash it slides down and pops the coupling apart - I poppped one just by dropping it on the floor and had to weld it up a bit better to get it to stay together.

Is the plate on top of the joint the wrong way round? With the open slot facing backwards not forwards as now, then the rod would push it off in a crash?

[FridgeFreezer]

20 minutes ago, missingsid said:

Is the plate on top of the joint the wrong way round? With the open slot facing backwards not forwards as now, then the rod would push it off in a crash?

I don't think it matters as the pin with the red clip is just a push-fit, so will be popped out in a crash releasing the bar. I suspect it's a one-shot deal hence why I had to weld mine up as it would't stay together once reassembled.