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diesel jim disc conversion


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Hi all, while I'm rebuild my 200tdi 110 csw I've decided to convert the rear drum brakes to discs. I've read and decided to go down the diesel Jim conversion route, I've read some of the other threads on here but have become a bit confused with people discussing various combinations of parts. I know the parts I need off the tech article for the brackets , callipers ,brake pipes but I'm not sure of the other bits is the part number for the hubs FRC 6139 and are the disc guard part numbers FTC4839 and FTC4838 ? And are here any other bits I will need ?

any help would be much appreciated cheers Ian

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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60726&hl=

this will be a good read....... plenty of info read the detail, 2 general routes earlier wide spaced bearings or replace the lot with 300tdi parts. If you've got the 200tdi drums already I'd personally go wider spaced bearings (use your stub axles and buy some FRC6139 front hubs), stc1268 stc1269 calipers? the 300tdi disc guards don't fit anyway.

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I have just done this on my 110. I followed the instructions and part numbers linked below and used the diesel Jim write up for more information. I used the early front hubs with wider bearing spacing on FRC3132 stub axles. I found it really easy to do the conversion.

http://www.landroverblogger.com/land-rover-salisbury-axle-disc-brake-conversion

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Prefer to use better spacers than that if you have the skills/time. by matching the contour of the caliper bracket and having them cut professionally they will be a much better job. Less chance of mud/rust blowing it apart. Not too sure what the copper grease brings to the party?

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Prefer to use better spacers than that if you have the skills/time. by matching the contour of the caliper bracket and having them cut professionally they will be a much better job. Less chance of mud/rust blowing it apart. Not too sure what the copper grease brings to the party?

I did use proper spacers following the contour of the bracket so it was a solid piece of metal but i used the method and part numbers listed and had no problems. I also did not bother with the disk shields as I only have one left on the front and when that rusts through as well will not bother replacing it either.

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You will find that the shields dramatically reduce pad wear when driving on winter roads.

I would keep them in place, but it depends on your usage. On the flip side they make jet washing play day mud off much harder.

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Cheers all , that's another job to the list when I've finished welding and painting the chassis. Did those of you that have followed this route buy the brake pipes or make them yourselves ? And whats the feeling on the best discs and pads to fit mintex , paddocks own branded ones

cheers Ian

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I bought stainless steel braided flexi brake lines for my rear axle from Dave at Llama4x4. They go straight from the axle tee peice to the caliper. They are easy and simple to fit, won't crack or corrode, and crucially allow you to remove the caliper for hub maintenance without having to disturb the brake hydraulic system

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  • 6 years later...

Looking to start this myself. I know it's been covered plenty, but currently all I have is a 200tdi 110 rear axle, and a set set of discs and calipers.

 

I believe, I'd need to purchase 300tdi hubs, caliper brackets, and a 6mm thick spacer for the caliper bracket.  Everything else I should be able to cobble together from what I have? Does this sound about right?

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I had a 110 300tdi which had a knackered Salisbury diff, I used an old 1980’s axle casing with the 300tdi stub axles, disc brackets, half shafts, drive members and hubs. All bolted straight onto the old axle casing. I ended up buying new shafts / drive members and stub axles as all were worn out when removed from the 300tdi. You can use 300tdi disco hubs which you can’t give away (same as defender)

From memory the only difference between the 80’s and the 300tdi axle casing was I had to drill one 6mm hole in the damper mount to allow the disc shield to bolt to it.

Edited by oneandtwo
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12 hours ago, tommobot said:

Infact, I think it may have been wrong... Is it 200tdi front hubs I need.... and I keep the existing 200tdi stub shaft or have I mis-understood?

200 and earlier front hubs will fit the early stub axles.  If you fit 300 hubs, you’ll need matching stub axles, drive flanges and half shafts..

I used a Discovery brake system on my 109, and the Discovery rear callipers and discs (same as RRC and 90) fit using the 300 Salisbury calliper bracket and a spacer.  If you are using 110 rear discs and callipers, then the same probably applies as the callipers are made to allow for the offset of the disc rim from the hub face, but I can’t be certain of that.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/30/2021 at 5:44 AM, Snagger said:

200 and earlier front hubs will fit the early stub axles.  If you fit 300 hubs, you’ll need matching stub axles, drive flanges and half shafts..

I used a Discovery brake system on my 109, and the Discovery rear callipers and discs (same as RRC and 90) fit using the 300 Salisbury calliper bracket and a spacer.  If you are using 110 rear discs and callipers, then the same probably applies as the callipers are made to allow for the offset of the disc rim from the hub face, but I can’t be certain of that.

I've now got my hubs, early front hubs... Just for absolute certainty, I need bearings and seals for a early defender front end... Nothing fancy of mixing and match with the rear etc..?

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On 11/18/2021 at 11:49 PM, tommobot said:

I've now got my hubs, early front hubs... Just for absolute certainty, I need bearings and seals for a early defender front end... Nothing fancy of mixing and match with the rear etc..?

Post 1980 SIIIs, all Defenders, RRC and Discovery 1 use the same wheel bearings.

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One further thing to add is if you swap the drum brakes for discs, swap the master cylinder for a 300tdi (smaller piston area) type, the older drum/disc master i persisted with for so long was the cause of the low effort even when standing on the pedal. Now it's easier to lock the wheels. I upgraded the front discs to vented with the wider calipers, all in it adds real stopping power now.

Pete

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