tonydrover Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Hi, it appears the head gasket is blowing out the back of the engine, (sounds like a steam train chuffing away). Having read the technical forum post on removing the cylinder head. It has given me confidence, so I figure I may as well overhaul/replace stuff whilst in there. Anybody got any suggestions on what I should consider replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Reseat the valves and new stem seals will be about all that's worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Also, be sure to get a proper Elring HG as the laminated steel ones just give you an oil leak at the front on the head when used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I had a laminated head gasket, it just caused a coolant loss into the oil, I changed it for a proper Elring gasket, no more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Started taking it apart today following the technical forum guide. I think what I might do is take it off, and take it to a place in Darlington that refurbishes the heads. Next question is.....is there a forum guide to refitting it? I know it is basically the reverse of removal, but what about specifics like assembly order and torque values. I do have a proper Land Rover workshop manual, which seems to list torque values, just wondering if there are any really good tips from the experts on here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Also whilst I have it all apart (in particular having the exhaust manifold off) I am going to fit the EGT system that's been sitting on the shelf for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Maybe a set of new head bolts? genuine only , clean the oil breather drain chamber and new manifold gasket , otherwise all good to go . cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 They are stretch bolts and there is a two stage stretch procedure. You should use new bolts and follow that procedure exactly. If you can find some ARP Ultra-Torque, use that for thread lube. Pull and inspect the tappets while you are in there. Check piston protrusion to make sure you have the correct gasket and that there is not a bent rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Good tip that, thanks. Something I didn't realise. Need to order some new bolts for the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Definitely need more advice here , when it comes to putting it all back together. Just been reading the rebuild part of the Landrover manual, and its saying that I have to do all this .... I quote word for word. Page 78 of Landrover manual:- 5. Attach the special service tool degree disc LST122 to a power bar. Make a suitable pointer from welding rod and attach it to a bolt screwed into a rocker shaft securing bolt hol.(Assuming they mean hole here) 6. Tighten all the bolts down through an angle of 60 degrees strictly in the sequence illustrated. As each bolt is tightened scribe a line across the head with a piece of chalk or crayon to identify which bolts have been tightened, then tighten each bolt a further 60degrees again in the correct sequence to complete the tightening procedure. Re-positioning of the pointer will , no doubt, be necessary to reach all bolts. Is there an easier way around all that Malarky? Do I really need special tool LST122? Seems all a bit weird to me, always been told you just torque the head bolts down in the right sequence and then do it again it the right sequence. But it`s something I've never actually done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 You need one of these - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-torque-angle-gauge-1-2 Les 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 The points of the bolt head tell you where 60 degrees are so perhaps you could do it without the tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 You need one of these - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-torque-angle-gauge-1-2 Les As Les says, just buy an angle gauge, I think I paid about six quid for one from eBay when I did my 200 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 The points of the bolt head tell you where 60 degrees are so perhaps you could do it without the tool? That's what I did. I don't think it's a coincidence that the procedure is two turns of 60deg, rather than some other angle. It'd save a lot of tools and time in the engine plant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 That's what I did. I don't think it's a coincidence that the procedure is two turns of 60deg, rather than some other angle. It'd save a lot of tools and time in the engine plant. Me too! A dab of tippex or whatever to show you where you started, then off you go... it's simple enough, really is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 As above, use the flats, whether it is 58 or 62 degrees is likely to be immaterial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 That's what I did. I don't think it's a coincidence that the procedure is two turns of 60deg, rather than some other angle. It'd save a lot of tools and time in the engine plant. The cylinder head tightening machine on an assembly line is a lovely piece of kit. Each bolt head has it's own "socket" and the machine lowers onto the head engaging with each bolt simultaneously. Then they are all tightened together and in the correct sequence to the torque / angle required. PLC controlled of course. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Fantastic advice, as usual. You blokes are ace! It's not at the rebuild stage yet, so I've got plenty of time to go get the required tools. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Got more bits off today, (only had a couple of hours really) and found the manifold gasket was split too. Never really noticed any ticking noise from it. The head gasket certainly seems to have gone too, I can now see where its been chucking oil and soot onto the bulkhead. It will stay half done for a few days while I am back to work fixing bigger toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 After the first torque, I put a mark on all the bolt heads in the same direction. You then can easily see which have been turned and how far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Been reading the installation instructions for the EGT system. It says the thread on the sensor is 1/8 PT. Is that the same as 1/8" NPT? As in tapered thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Probably. What exactly is the kit you bought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Got the head off this afternoon, it now looks like the second from last photo in the guide. Only real problem I had was one of the 10mm bolts holding the rocker shaft on would budge. Ended up wrecking it then had to put my Erwins bolt removers on it, totally chewed it but got it out. Need to buy new ones, now to find a part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Is that one of the bolts holding the rocker shaft pedistal ? Remind mt tomorrow afternoon to check to see if I have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydrover Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 There are 2 10mm bolts and 3 special bolts that the rocker cover bolts on the top of. The one that I chewed up was one of the normal 10mm ones. The bolts look like they are made of brass. Why would they be made of brass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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