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110 brake upgrade?


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So after an accident yesterday (luckily not my fault) i think its time to up grade my brakes, currently its completly stock, plain disks on the front and drum on the back, you can stand on them as much as you want, the stopping distance is terrible, has anyone done anything like this before? I have googled a bit but i cant find anyone who has rear drums

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Then you have faulty brakes. My 109 is on Discovery brakes, same as 90 brakes and smaller than 110, and it stops very smartly. It's depressing how often I read comments about how poor a LR standard system is, often steering, brakes or suspension, when it's clearly an issue with worn out components. Disc brakes don't stop you any better than drums; they just require less maintenance and cool faster.

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Good working stock brakes should pull up a Land Rover no problem.

Drums on the rear can be a PITA sometimes, but when in working order they are more than sufficient. My 300Tdi would easily lock all 4 wheels instantly at 50mph+ on dry tarmac running BFG TracEdges. I know as I did it on purpose many times.

You may want to try figuring out what is wrong with yours first. If you have drums on the rear then I'm guess it's a Salisbury axle. I'm not sure if there are any easy or cheap disc conversions for those. And I'd want to keep the HD axle rather than swap on a Discovery disc axle.

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Sometimes brakes just don't make sense. I never did get the brakes working on my 300 tdi Disco despite changing absolutely every component (bar the hard brake lines) out for new. They worked of a fashion but would not lock a wheel even on gravel. When I rebuilt the 110 I used all new (genuine) parts from the TD5 era and also fitted an uprated prototype servo from Bearmach (a BIG improvement over standard). The 110 brakes are fantastic and I feel more than happy bowling along in motorway traffic at 75-80 mph.

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Might be a servo or master cylinder fault if you're struggling to even lock up the wheels. You should be able to exceed the tyres' grip very easily.

I would suggest stripping it down and checking that all the pistons on the front and rear move smoothly and evenly, then check the adjustment on the rears (can be a pain in the backside - hence why I and many others convert to discs) and probably worth changing the fluid too.

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I'd suggest a servo fault, so you apply a lot of pedal pressure but don't get much hydraulic pressure. If it was a fault in an individual corner, it wouldn't affect the other wheels and would produce a pull. However, just replacing the fluid is not brake maintenance. You need to inspect the discs and pads,a nd check for free movement of the calliper pistons, and at the back you have to remove the drums, clean them and the shoes, inspect everything for wear, warping and damage, then reassemble and adjust the shoes (that is the fiddly bit). A proper brake service takes folk like us several hours. At least you only have rear drums - Series LRs have drums all round...

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Ok so how do i go about servicing or making sure evedythings working fully? I changed the flyid completly about 3 weeks or so ago

To be fair, if the rear shoes are knackered in the drums, then it can generate a huge amount of pedal travel and poor braking. If you pump the pedal while braking, does it get firmer and improve the braking?

However poor braking could be a servo or vacuum pump issue. Or even leaking brake fluid. Excessive wheel bearing play can also cause odd braking issues too.

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To be fair, if the rear shoes are knackered in the drums, then it can generate a huge amount of pedal travel and poor braking. If you pump the pedal while braking, does it get firmer and improve the braking?

However poor braking could be a servo or vacuum pump issue. Or even leaking brake fluid. Excessive wheel bearing play can also cause odd braking issues too.

Not even if they are knackered - you can get this if they are poorly adjusted too. Its amazing the difference adjusting the snail cams alone can make on my 110.

Are we talking about a 110 or a 90 here in the OP??

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Edit:

Couldnt quote Orgasmic Farmer ref: Prototype Bearmach Servo for some reason!

This sound very interesting. Was this to fit a 3 pipe master cylinder?

We have a 2 pipe MC on our 110 and 90 but the 90 has a servo with a larger circumference. Is the larger servo for better braking?

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Edit:

Couldnt quote Orgasmic Farmer ref: Prototype Bearmach Servo for some reason!

This sound very interesting. Was this to fit a 3 pipe master cylinder?

We have a 2 pipe MC on our 110 and 90 but the 90 has a servo with a larger circumference. Is the larger servo for better braking?

It replaced a TD5 servo and is about the same size. Just worked much better in back-to-back comparison. It has been on now for almost 4 years and still fine. I do not know if they ever went into production, mine was one of 2 prototypes. I had a mate working for them and they needed a test mule, right place right time :-)

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I too also a member of the changed everything but not fixed it club.

My old V8 90 had carp brakes (rear drums) when I bought it. Locking a wheel up only ever happened in the wet.

Over the years I rebuilt the front calipers, replaced servo & MC for 300 Tdi spec, replaced all flexi hoses, fluid, fitted disk braked back axle, rebuilt rear calipers....and the brakes were just as carp 20 years later as they started off.

By contrast my 110 brakes (rear drums again) are very good, as long as the pedal travel (shoe adjustment) is kept in check. This latter point does require a lot of upkeep.

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I have scrapped at least fifteen 200/300tdi defenders. Every single one of them without exception with the later type servo has had a faulty servo with hairline crack in the usual place. Sometimes these will hold a vacuum but as soon as the pedal is pressed the crack opens up at the vacuum is lost.

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interesting point about the crack, one hose and part of the servo on mine is perminently wet, iv nipped up all the pipes but to no change, could this be the problem? how could i check for sure?

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just checking, pumping the pedal lessens the travel to firmness each time until its hardly any travel then holding the pedal (at fully pumped up )it slowly depresses to the usual full travel position

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just checking, pumping the pedal lessens the travel to firmness each time until its hardly any travel then holding the pedal (at fully pumped up )it slowly depresses to the usual full travel position

This means your drums are not adjusted. They are manually adjusted and you need to do it every now and then.

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just checking, pumping the pedal lessens the travel to firmness each time until its hardly any travel then holding the pedal (at fully pumped up )it slowly depresses to the usual full travel position

I think you need to look at your rear brakes. TBH if you are going to the effort of stripping them down, treat them to some new shoes, adjusters and cylinder and maybe even the drum itself.

The pedal creep does suggest an issue and possibly a vacuum leak, so you may need to investigate this too.

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check vacuum by pumping pedal and hold the pressure on pedal whilst starting engine. if you have good vacuum the pedal will sink an inch or so, if it doesn't move when you start engine you have a vac problem. vac problem is either:

1. hairline cracks in servo

2. split in vac hose

3. failed vac pump

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