HoggyN Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 You'll now also need to submit a design and access statement for planning along with details of rainwater soakaway to BRE365. The last garage I had approval on had over 35 pages for the planning application. Is the design and access statement a new thing? When I looked about a month ago it was optional for a householder application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Fridge... You're an absolute star!! That's very, very helpful - gives me an idea of what to expect and of course the benefit of your experience (all the 'ask me how I knows')! Cracking info there from Fridge. If I might offer my advice: Fridge alluded to the govt planning portal. Have a look at your local council’s planning website. My council at least, Bristol, allows you a map-based search of approved planning permissions. So, you can see the required standard of documentation for your area. I know it ‘should’ be the same across the country, but certain councils will be ‘keen’ on certain aspects. Soakaways appear to be Bristol’s favourite at the moment. In fact, you can take this a step further. Should you happen to spy a recently-built garage/workshop that you like the look of – fire up the planning website and have a snoop of the plans. You’d be surprised at quite how much information is on there. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Cracking info there from Fridge. If I might offer my advice: Fridge alluded to the govt planning portal. Have a look at your local council’s planning website. My council at least, Bristol, allows you a map-based search of approved planning permissions. So, you can see the required standard of documentation for your area. I know it ‘should’ be the same across the country, but certain councils will be ‘keen’ on certain aspects. Soakaways appear to be Bristol’s favourite at the moment. In fact, you can take this a step further. Should you happen to spy a recently-built garage/workshop that you like the look of – fire up the planning website and have a snoop of the plans. You’d be surprised at quite how much information is on there. Matt Great idea! I've just had a snoop around South Oxfordshire District Council's site and there are loads of examples - lots to be learnt there I think!! Many thanks for this info/idea, much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Udderly.... I love you!! I've just found the application for 'demolition of a garage and erection of one in it's place', just around the corner from me. It's a recent application too, so hopefully most info will be current. Should give me a very accurate idea of what I need to do. Massive, massive help. Thank you once again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Don't sweat the paperwork too much, the planners etc. can be really nit-picky on some stuff (as I found out) but they can also be realistic about how much of a toss to give for something like a garage - I copied details from other planning applications, as suggested above. If you miss something or put something they don't like they will come back & tell you, it just costs time & faff, and if you visit the planning clinic you can get a pretty good steer for free before submitting. If someone near you has a recent successful application then grab it and copy it! Some councils are fussier than others, if you live in a conservation zone or something then all bets are off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 They also each have their own bees in their bonnets - for example, round here for drive applications planning are likely to turn you down if you don't demonstrate you have room to turn a car (so exit and enter the highway forwards), even if highways have added a note to the application saying you don't need a turning area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Very true, I had to demonstrate there was room for 2 cars in our garage (parking is an issue) even though I'm never going to put 2 cars in there! It's all just hoops to jump through, you just have to plug away at it and not let the daftness get to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Very true, I had to demonstrate there was room for 2 cars in our garage (parking is an issue) even though I'm never going to put 2 cars in there! It's all just hoops to jump through, you just have to plug away at it and not let the daftness get to you. Was there any stipulation on the size of the car? As you could fit two smarts in a single garage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 There was some stipulation like a certain length / width of "standard" car, nothing mad though. Round our street there's a lot more cars than there is off-street parking, so they are a bit concerned about getting cars off the street. It's just about ticking the boxes and jumping through the hoops, I added info showing that at least two cars would fit in, might've given the vague impression that our two daily drivers which currently clutter up the road would go in the garage (of course they would, but they're not going to ) which a zealous planner might've taken as a good reason to gaze favourably upon our plans... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 I'm back! So here we are almost a year later and still no workshop! I severely underestimated the time it would take to do some stuff to the new house, mainly down to the the arrival of a second little mite! Anyhow his will be the year! I've been busy beavering away, making plans and I'm pretty much ready to start my planning permission application. Just one issue - I really cannot decide what the minimum height to have internally? I'm thinking vehicle height plus 40cm (typical range of a 2/3t trolley jack) for raising the vehicle? Please dont anyone say make it 'as high as you can' - the site is elevated so I want to keep the eaves height of any building to an absolute minimum otherwise the workshop will look huuggggggeeeee at the back of my garden! Your thoughts please, on how much headroom I need to raise a landie sufficiently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The ceiling clearance in ours with the ambulance in: Maybe 20cm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 If you have to be careful with the height - work with 40 cm.. We have a luxery that we can go up to 9 mtrs. if we want to - but we want to keep the new workshop under 4 mtrs. Either use a swivel chait to go under the secured vehicle - or a shallow pit... Bon Courage ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 18 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Maybe 20cm? Does this cause you much frustration though Fridge? 11 minutes ago, Arjan said: If you have to be careful with the height - work with 40 cm.. We have a luxery that we can go up to 9 mtrs. if we want to - but we want to keep the new workshop under 4 mtrs. Either use a swivel chait to go under the secured vehicle - or a shallow pit... Bon Courage ! Thank you Arjan! The more think about it the more I think 2.5m should be fine. The times I will need to lift a vehicle more than 40cm are surely going to be limited, so when they do occur I can just work on my car outside, or make other plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Back in Holland, the workshop behind my house was too low to get the Series in.. Got € 5k off the askingprice of the house - the agents face was priceless when I said I'd go and look elsewhere because of the garage.. Eventuelly, I out a new roof on top of the old one, went to see the neighbour about the use of a chansaw and cut the old stuff away.. Drastic - but effective. When I asked if she'd any bother of the noise she said she'd turned off her hearing aid.... Any lift is a lift - just make sure to support the vehicle ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 mine is 2.6 internally... it was a pita with my lifted and caged discovery. if you can id go high enough to put a 2 post lift in. theyre not expensive to buy these days and are so useful... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 17 hours ago, Spearos said: Does this cause you much frustration though Fridge? Not so far, but I don't have much cause to be jacking it up often. Honestly, as long as you can lift the axle enough to get a wheel off you can do most things. What's most annoying is the lack of width but that wasn't really viable to do much about. I have just about 1m each side of the vehicle, maybe a bit less, and it's not enough for comfortable working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Not so far, but I don't have much cause to be jacking it up often. Honestly, as long as you can lift the axle enough to get a wheel off you can do most things. What's most annoying is the lack of width but that wasn't really viable to do much about. I have just about 1m each side of the vehicle, maybe a bit less, and it's not enough for comfortable working. Thanks Fridge, thanks for your input....And thanks for making me now worry about the width! I've had a look at your garage Is that really a meter either side? A meter seems enough (in theory anyway), in our old house there was a fence on one side of our drive and I often worked on my 90 with around a meter between it and the fence and I didn't find it difficult. Hmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I think I'd want 4ft either side really, leaves room to open the doors properly, take out half shafts etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: I think I'd want 4ft either side really, leaves room to open the doors properly, take out half shafts etc. I reckon this is at least as important as height, its a complete pain when trying to squeeze past the open doors when working from engine bay to cab At the end of the day we use what space we have but if possible... wider is better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 19 hours ago, Spearos said: Thanks Fridge, thanks for your input....And thanks for making me now worry about the width! I've had a look at your garage Is that really a meter either side? A meter seems enough (in theory anyway), in our old house there was a fence on one side of our drive and I often worked on my 90 with around a meter between it and the fence and I didn't find it difficult. Hmmmmm It's probably less than a metre, from memory the place is ~3.5m wide ish. There's a few different levels of useful widths: Enough to get in & out & around comfortably, enough to fully open the doors, enough to pull the long half-shaft, enough to get round the truck with the doors opened. When doing wiring in engine bay / behind the dash it gets old having to close the door, walk past, open the door, climb in every time... I Juuuuust managed to get the long side front shaft out on the 109 but by crikey it was close! What doesn't help is that, as tends to happen, loads of stuff is stacked along the wall on both sides so everything gets narrower - sheet materials, lengths, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 I managed with just enough room to open the door and get out - with my svelte frame that was about 400 mm, which ever way you look at it its better then doing it outside in the wet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 I had a very small garage, barely bigger than the 109's footprint, so the sub-assemblies could be worked on indoors but final assembly had to be done outside on the shingle. It was horrible working in the weather, especially the winter. The need for space around the vehicle is not to be underestimated. 4' either side is OK, but make sure it's long enough, too. I have my RRC on castor wheeled dollies so that I can move it around on the concrete floor to create more space where needed, but that does need a reasonably smooth floor (the engine crane, too). Be careful about drainage. My garage floor was badly poured and is dished, so any spills pool in the middle. Far better would be to have a gentle gradient down to the main doors so any water flows out. I also have a driveway that slopes down to the garage, which precludes barn doors, but more critically, sends rain water to flood the garage. The drain channel strips in front of the doors sort out most of it, but I was getting big puddles from the rain running down the up-and-over doors onto the concrete floor and under the doors with wind from that side until I fitted flexible weather strips to the bottoms of the doors. Minor problems, but worth considering. Another problem those doors suffer is the wind catching them when open and bringing them down, so far only on the trailer and my head. The latter hurts, but heals. Have it come down on a freshly restored body panel and you won't be laughing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 A badly poured and/or uneven floor can be overcome with levelling screed - the "old" end of my garage was done with it prior to painting and it's lovely. Screed + floor paint makes rolling jacks round, sweeping things up, and clearing spills so much easier. You do need HD screed though, I forget which one I used but it's on my garage thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Thanks guys, good to hear all the different opinions. I will be restricted to a building with an internal width of 4.2m because of where it's going (long story), so as long as I keep the walls clear (ish) it should give me decent space either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 That should give you enough room if you keep the place tidy. Mine is 14' across and just about wide enough to work on the car easily. As long as you keep the floor clutter to a minimum. Some decent shelves down the sides up above head height can save a lot of space by moving things off the floor. I plan for a 15" deep shelf right down one side of mine, which shouldn't interfere with the wider car clearance envelope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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