FridgeFreezer

While you'd hope a Britpart sensor would survive longer than a week, it would not be outside their normal range of performance in my experience

Alas my Mini is only ~200bhp but that's more than enough to be quite naughty with

Well, ALSO that... and that's ignoring the noises from the other end of the sofa about building a Cobra

If I didn't have too many projects already I'd be buying that, what a time capsule and a pretty practical classic runabout too.

I didn't seal the ends but now I'm wondering if I should Looks like end caps are available from the usual suppliers (builders merchants etc.) or you could just stuff something reasonably inedible down there, these days I'd be fancy and 3D print a split cap that fits in the end with holes cutout for the cables

I ducted my garage, it's not hard and you only have to do it once - I bought a 50m reel of twinwall corrugated ducting with the smooth liner - that's the critical part, there's identical-looking drainage pipe that is the same corrugated exterior but with no smooth liner. Since I only needed ~12m of it I actually sold the rest on ebay to someone doing a similar job I'll admit the builders did the burying as they were busy pulling up the concrete path where the ducting was due to go anyway and extending the garage at the time. Get a good length of blue nylon rope (I'd guess >2x the overall length), then use a vacuum cleaner on one end to pull it through - I tied off both ends and then I just use sparky tape to wrap a good number of wraps round whatever I'm pulling through and heave ho. If you need extra suction a carrier bag tied on gives a lot more "pull" for the vacuum cleaner. Cat5/6 won't care about being near an armoured cable, just make sure you get outdoors-rated stuff. Mine's been in & working great for probably a decade now. I think I used 10mmsq, it may have been that 6mmsq was "OK" from memory but I just went one higher to be sure as I was going to be running the welder. I'll also say it's worth getting the slow-reaction breakers on the house end of the feed or power tools etc. can trip it very easily. Although you're unlikely to be running all the powerful stuff at once, in winter it's very easy to be running a 3kW heater and a couple of other things without really realising it - I've found a cheapy ~2kW infra-red patio heater bolted to the wall is enough to take the chill off even on low setting (so more like 500-1000W) rather than running cheap 3kW fan heaters etc. as I used to. This is the sort of ducting I used: https://www.easymerchant.co.uk/twinwall-ducting/electrical/x50m-pipe-coils/ You can get all different colours etc. and the warning tape to bury above it if you're being fancy.

^ this. In the early days, EDIS was a solid reliable way to get ignition going but it ONLY works with the Ford 36-1 wheel, however now we have the luxury of cheap "logic level" coil packs with built-in drivers the job becomes much easier, you can use MS in VR-sensor mode at which point it supports almost any trigger setup known to man.

The crit d'air sticker is only something like 5 euros for life, unless your dirty old diesel is in the naughty category?

Before this thread descends into an electric Vs acoustic bun fight I would say that in your situation you may as well fit electric, hydraulic has a more compact motor but the plumbing & valves etc. are very chunky (and heavy) compared to tucking a solenoid pack somewhere, given this is for occasional self-recovery not winching competitions. Only exception is if you bit the bullet and replaced the power pack with an actual PTO or crank-driven setup that powered everything from one unit so it saves space & weight and simplifies a few things - I'm a big fan of simplicity in vehicles especially if you're going overland in one. It's very easy to add everything you can think of and end up with a heavy complicated and unreliable vehicle that's hard to fix, it's far harder to remove things, "simplify and add lightness"...

Those can vary wildly TBH, some of these things are just fishing from dealers who want to try and bump prices before quietly selling it for a fair bit less... with something that weird it's 50/50 if you have 2 or more people who think it's cool they might bid each other up to well above the estimate, if only 1 person likes it it may struggle to hit the reserve. Also a clean restored 2-door is likely worth more than a similar 4-door any day of the week unfortunately.

What they all said - I fell foul of this too having bought a P38 clutch only to discover none of it fits a non-P38 bellhousing... thankfully the answer is to fit a standard clutch setup complete, I would not even bother fitting a 2nd hand clutch anyway for the small cost of a new one it's not worth having to do the job twice.

You're a horrible horrible man! Honestly I would either do as others say and de-pin it carefully or just buy a complete new connector kit, although those boots are pretty useless at actually keeping stuff out.

^ this, £110 for a tool buys a lot of drill bits, I'm still working my way through a party pack of 1mm - 10mm in 0.5mm steps I bought from Axminster for around £50 many years ago, and every so often I'll pick up packs of 10 in a popular size from the creepy tool guy who turns up at shows etc. selling Presto and other good quality gear for cheap-ish. Using "disposable" 1/8 or 1/4 jobbers for pilot holes makes a huge difference, as does buying a few bits for "best" like the right sizes for all the taps that live with taps and don't get used for general stuff.

The aircon pump hangs off the side (see the picture Bowie posted) so if you want aircon that could be tight, both my 4.6's were dropped into Series/Defender engine bays which are too narrow anyway and no aircon so I just lopped it off after the PAS pump. In a Range Rover there may well be enough space in the engine bay. If you check my "Bigger shed" thread in the Members vehicles section (from about page 6) I go over the swap from 3.5 to 4.6, swapping from 3.9 will be simpler in some ways as the fuel system will stay the same and your exhaust is already good, the plenum will line up, etc. etc. the wrinkle about joining the PAS pump is a little devil, basically you need the last 8-10" of solid steel pipe that comes out of the P38 PAS pump or you've got no hope of neatly routing that without some fiddly custom hoses / adapters. As verified later by Bowie, you can carefully knock the low-pressure inlet elbow around to face a more sensible way too. The oil filter does hang down near the axle, I believe D2 front ends may be better for this, or you can fit a stubby filter or a remote filter head, all easy solutions. There's a dowel in the crank to locate the flywheel for correct crank sensor ring timing, if you use an earlier flywheel you'll need to pull that out - manual flywheels with the sensor ring on are quite rare as most were autos. I've probably forgotten a few bits, ask away I'll try to remember / find pictures

In that case you could go the old MileMarker route of using a power steering pump - slow as hell but WILL pull you out eventually and there's a million shapes & sizes to choose from. As Ben says, absolutely zero benefit in using a 12v power pack to make hydraulic power to turn a winch - just fit an electric winch and save space & power & cost.