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Rear Recovery point


jcwcooper

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Ive got a tow bar with electrics I would like to keep, its mainly for being winched back out when i get stuck good'un proper, one of my Jate rings was bent last time i got stuck and was winched out backwards.

Dave.

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I need one of these too - are they the same as the eyes often seen on the back of jap 4x4s? Shoguns (pardon the language :blink: )

etc.

Is the bolt spacing the same? Would be good if they are as the scrappy near me has 2 shoguns in at the moment!

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Is it just me, or do they look a bit flimsy, not much weld holding a thin bit of bar, to a thin bit of palte :unsure:

One more thing to consider is the relative weak structure of the rear crossmember the recovery point is mounted onto. The weldings holding the rear crossmember in place is sometimes quite faulty, even on a new vehicle. There was an example here in denmark where a new defender 90" (driven by the importer himself!) was really stuck in a river crossing on the beach. Three other landrovers connected up to pull it free - only to pull the whole rear crossmember clean off.

For heavy recovery I dont thrust any recovery point which is only mounted (welded or bolted) to the rear crossmember. For real strenght is has to be connected to the main frame rails.

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For heavy recovery I dont thrust any recovery point which is only mounted (welded or bolted) to the rear crossmember. For real strenght is has to be connected to the main frame rails.

Have to agree here, nothing like pulling a cross member right in the middle to make it want to bend <_<

Two recovery points on each chassis leg would be much better IMHO.

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I dont thinik they are a good idea and a nato tow hitch is certainly a big no no for recovery. They simply are not strong enough. We had it drilled into us with our recovery training in the Army, never to use a bumper or tow hitch for recovery as they are rated forno more than 2 tones (or somthing like that,I forget exactly). I find it hard to belive that the recovery point pictured is any stronger than a nato tow hitch too.

We were always advised to put a chain around part of the chassis or axle. We have had a vehicle so stuck badly that it was pulled off its axles (by a warrior AFV) becuase a chassis recovery point was used instead of the axle.

Each recovery situation is different so its all food for thought. But im my opinion you should avoide tow hooks and that styleof recovery point if you are ever going to be doing serious recovery.

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I have one of these and have found it first rate !

Mo

Me too Mo, but what do we know? :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Bish, as posted by gazelle, it's the equipe one from LRS

I dont thinik they are a good idea and a nato tow hitch is certainly a big no no for recovery.

This made me laugh :lol:

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What made you laugh. They simply are not rated for recovery weights. You could end up putting over 4 tones of pull through a recovery point if you are really stuck seriously or using a kinetic recovery rope. The tow hitch is made to pull a trailer that even when full laden on a bedford is a rolling weight of just a couple of tone.

Really. dont do it, you are dicing with death when you end up with a high velocity nato tow hitch comming at you when it brakes.

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What made you laugh. They simply are not rated for recovery weights. You could end up putting over 4 tones of pull through a recovery point if you are really stuck seriously or using a kinetic recovery rope. The tow hitch is made to pull a trailer that even when full laden on a bedford is a rolling weight of just a couple of tone.

Really. dont do it, you are dicing with death whe you end up with a high velocity nato tow hitch comming at you when it breakes.

The NATO hitch is probably OK for landrover recovery. After all the landrover weighs only about 3 tonnes fully laden. The reason for not using the NATO hook for recovery could be that some bigger military trucks also is equipped with NATO-hooks, and there are some diffence between trying to extract a 3 tonne landrover and a 12-tonne magirus (or whatever you have over there). Probably easier in the military to just make one rule - "do not use it" - instead of trying to educate all personell as to which situations the NATO hook can be used, and to which is should not be used...

Even then - please remember that the NATO hook is only bolted to a relative thin cross-member. It may not be torn directly off, but it dont need too much sideway pull to bend that rear crossmember - even with the strengthening plate on.

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I got mine from here

£40!!!!!!!!!!!!11 Flinking Blip!!!

Apparently according the dixon bate site they are rated to 17kN, whatever that is in real life :huh:

Mike

9.81N per kg, so 17kN is 17,000N which is approximately 1.7 tonnes. :rolleyes:

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