Peaklander

If the 3.7V is there with the switch connected then you might have a bad earth and that might be at the switch thread. If you used PTFE on the threads it could be too thick.

Yes it is.

The warning light has +12v ignition controlled connected at one side of it and the other side goes to 0v through the pressure switch normally closed contact and the light is on. When the pressure rises, the switch opens and the warning light goes out. With the wire disconnected at the switch, you are measuring some volts because your test meter is acting like the switch and providing a path to earth for a very small amount of current (and it only needs this small amount to display a voltage). It isn’t enough to light the warning lamp though. If it did, the lamp would drop all the 12 volts and you wouldn’t measure anything. So just connect the wire, check that the lamp is on with the ignition and then start-up and it will go out.

This is my circuit although I drew the relay contact as normally open but it is the normally closed pins that are used. This means that when the level is OK, current flows and the relay is energised and the warning light stays off. Relay is an Omron G5V-1 which has very low current draw for the coil. This prevents burning of the reed switch in the cap through excessive current draw. It has been in place for a year. As the power is applied at ignition-on though, the relay switches too quickly to be able to see the warning light flash as a circuit test. I really need to modify it with a little delay timer.

That eBay result just makes me sad. I fitted a 5MB to my 88" ground-up rebuild. It cost me £100 which I thought was a lot. The New TD5 bulkhead, to which I fitted the series footwells and tunnel, cost £167. It wasn't very long ago really. Then stupidly I sold the whole vehicle. Edit: although maybe my engine wasn't quite the same as that. I don't know. Same colour, petrol, 2-1/4. I just don't know the code.

Some sellers do differentiate between the 4mm and 5mm channel and others don't. SPx4 for example state that theirs will do either. I have just replaced mine (later vehicle 4mm) but used dealer supplied parts, 4mm specific as they cost less than the other 4mm vendors but more than sp4x4's complete kit - I perhaps should have tried that. Edit: should add that the correct size channel was very hard to fit in the frame at the small window on my second row doors. The glass is snug in it though.

Thanks for your input guys. I don't have a problem at start-up as pressure is right up nearly at 4 Bar. The relief valve might even be operating (3.9 Bar / 55psi) but if it is, I doubt that it would still be leaking pressure away as the temperature increases and the oil thins. I really need to do a decent drive as these 30minute pootles around aren't much use. Coming home just now after about 14 miles and lots of hills we were again below 2 Bar and idling at just over 1 Bar.

Hoses for pressure work are always braided (or spiral wound if they are really big). Depending on the specification, a braided hose can have one or two layers (maybe even a third although not in my experience). The inner extruded tube has a braiding applied and if it's a two layer braid then a thin rubber strip is laid down around the first braid as the second braid is added. Then an outer layer is extruded to finish. The braid layers take the pressure and this and the thickness and spec of the rubber plus the diameters of course, define the spec of the hose. One important point is the abrasion resistance of the cover and the resistance of the inner to the 'chewing' of the braid as the hose flexes. One of the most demanding situations is a flex into an Omega shape as the pressure is cycled. I always thought that 'over braiding' was more cosmetic than anything else but maybe it really does do a job - which would be to provide additional abrasion resistance. If it is applied over the 'traditional' construction then I don't see how failure of this braid layer could cause a leak.

Thanks Ralph. My concern is/was the final pressure drop once the oil gets up to final temperature. It’s then <2Bar (28) when driving and at idle the value is <1.5Bar (21).

Well this won't be much help but my hazard switch (now using a Carling Contura V) has the following connections: G - IGN switched +12v P - Permanent +12V GW - to RH side indicators GR - to LH side indicators LGN - to turn switch common LG - to flasher relay plus an earth and illumination Not sure if your switch will easily swap in.

I'm sure you are correct. I did check the earth path with a meter at the bulkhead earth and the sender case. I know that isn't quite all of it but it eliminates the threads at the ports and the engine earth strap. I don't know why I didn't buy a two terminal sender; maybe it wasn't available in 1/8" NPT thread option. I guess I'll get used to it and it should give me a little more warning of impending doom than just the low pressure switch.

A latching switch does what it says and latches in the ON position until it is operated again when it goes back to OFF. So no, a latching switch wouldn't run through a timer relay. These have a MOMentary switch that just pulses a signal to them in order for them to click ON for the timed period.

I'm continuing this thread as we talked about oil pressure and viscosity earlier. After lots of works of various kinds on my vehicle since the start of lockdown, yesterday I drove it for the first time in weeks. It is only a few hundred miles into life with new piston rings, honed bores etc. I fitted a VDO oil pressure gauge and matching sensor and I did wonder if doing this would open-up a can of worms. I picked the 0-5Bar VDO vision gauge, a Tee piece with 1/8" NPT threads at each end and M10 at the Tee. So the pressure switch came out, the Tee screwed in with the pressure switch moved to the other end and the VDO sensor went in on the Tee. I moved my clock to the Mud console so that the gauge would be easier to read. So to my experiences of the oil pressure and then a question. All looks ok at start-up and for the first 20-25 minutes of a drive. My water temperature gauge reaches the normal operating point after 10 minutes and then stays there - it aways does, whatever the work rate, height above sea level (max 2,400m) or the ambient temperature (low 40s C). Watching the oil pressure, at cold start its about 3.5Bar so just under 50psi. This drops to around 2 Bar (28psi) once the engine is hot. However at some point after that, so by now I've been driving for 15-20 mins, it drops more to 1.5Bar when working, perhaps a tad more, and at idle it is 1 - 1.5. This idle pressure is a little low as the spec. is 1.8Bar (25psi). I'm more concerned about the fairly low pressure when operating though. What do you think? Has the oil taken more time to warmup than the coolant? Am I seeing oil that is too hot and hence lower viscosity? I could measure the oil temperature as I have an infra red camera attachment for my iPhone. Perhaps I could jump out and measure the pipe temperature at the oil cooler (bottom pipe?). I knew fitting a gauge would throw-up questions. 😀 Edit: forgot to say that the oil I use is 15W-40 SHPD.

I saw at Bridlington last week that they clean the sand with a tractor towing a "surf rake". It's a little like a round baler with a big sieve, scooping the top layer and then letting it fall back out through the sieve. It is driven at walking pace and does a great job quite quickly which is just as well as there's a fair area of sand even above high water mark.

What a lovely place to take it. I spent many hours on that beach years ago and Marine Drive is something else in bad weather. We are here this morning, all waiting for pictures of your finds!

The thread was resurrected with a 1st/2nd fear jumping problem. It was me who introduced reverse and my cause wasn’t the idler but a worn selector fork, as I said. I just offered it as a possible cause. 😀

I saw the report on the news last night of the Reading park deaths and couldn’t believe the lack of social distancing outside the school where one of the victims worked. The Head was reading a statement and pupils and teachers were standing very close together. I think police officers were too.

I had the same problem on my 88” in reverse. The cause was the selector was worn around the arc where it engages with the selector ring ( is that the correct term?). This made it thinner so it didn’t push the ring as far as needed to engage the gear correctly.

I bought my BFG ATs from Tyreleader five years ago and they were significantly cheaper than anywhere else at the time. The fitter at the local garage had a battle to get them to seal on the rims. He said that they appeared to have been stacked incorrectly or for too long and as a consequence they were squashed. I think he used the brake fluid expansion method on some of them.

Have you used the site at lrworkshop.com? I have a log-in but otherwise no connection. It's really useful and has some "crowd" input to develop it. Here is the diagram posted above...https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/2.5-petrol/thermostat-housing_53276 There are links to some vendors, not all of them but is is very handy.

I’ve had a lot of luck with Halfords’ spray cans. Epsom Green and the clear lacquer. They are a good match.

My daughter got off the trans-Siberian train in mid winter on the way to a job in China. She had a nine day trip around Mongolia in a Uaz 452 with a few other people. It seemed to go anywhere. I don’t think they used many roads at all. Obviously the ground was fairly frozen 😀 so perhaps not that demanding really.

90 or 110? I have some photos of a 110 CSW during chassis swap.

How old the thread is, is irrelevant. There is still useful information in an old thread - we have the Technical Index on here for a start. What's even better IMHO is when people cross-reference one thread from another. That makes them even more useful, even if they are ten years old.

Yes it is but so are a lot of things. How many people travel to football grounds week in week out? What about F1 for example - they fly around the world, as do plenty of spectators. How much fuel is burnt by the total attendance at say Silverstone over four days? Once you start picking on one polluting car it's hard to stop.