neil110

Oddly enough Series111 Land Rovers had 48 spline steering wheels, thus a 300 tdi wheel will fit a series and vice versa

You could always try finding the set up as fitted to a winterised/waterproofed WOLF. Mind you when I asked about the possibility of buying one from a LR dealer the price was a bit eye watering. Just over £1200 and that was just for the filter housing on top of the snorkel

if you look on www.thepart.com several dealers are showing stock with prices ranging from £49 to nearly £350 including one listed as genuine at £115

If you feel you may be down on power there is a very small problem which can affect the 300 tdi. The throttle cable loses its adjustment and you don't get full power. It is a simple fix to reset the adjustment. More of a problem with a new cable when the screw is still clean and shiny than with an older cable where the threaded section of the cable has some oxidisation. It is a coarse thread and goes through a plastic collar. I ended up having to wrap mine in tape to stop it happening

I bought an early 36 spline steering wheel for mine, mostly because I prefer the larger diameter and the thinner rim. Sadly it is getting difficult to find this type wheel in good condition. So I ended up with a wheel which was quite worn. Then fitted one of these to it. http://wheelskins.com

Only slightly off topic, does anybody know what the V12 cylinder block (from the interview section with JC) was from?

getting it to disengage can be a bit of a wheeze. At one time I had to reverse my vehicle for a few yards to get difflock to let go. Funny thing was the longer it had been in difflock the further I had to reverse ii

Land Rover do a fitting kit to go with the front pads. Comprising: 4 very light springs (through which the retaining pins fit) pins and stainless steel split pins. Stops all rattles and squeals. Item 19 on this page. http://numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/52911/ Yes I know it shows solid discs, but this is the kit supplied for vented discs http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/93981/0/brake_pad_pin_kit_vented_disccovery_1___defender___range_rover_classic

From memory and this a sepia toned memory so please forgive any errors. On a 300 there is a short flexi hose to the water drain valve thingy. The clip shown in the diagram bolts to a small bracket on the chassis and it supports the drain valve assembly. Item 10 in the link http://numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/53450/

I know you specify that you don't really want a recon box, but the R380 in mine was a recon unit from Ashcroft. I got it 18 years and over 200,000 miles ago. With regular oil changes and good quality oil a gearbox should do stellar milaeages. I had another 110 with a 300tdi/r380 combination, from new, and put 350,000 miles on it without any failures. The only thing I did was to shorten the oil change intervals to 10,000 miles for everything in the drive line (apart from the engine which I did at 5,000)

no idea who made this particular set but the last axle set I bought from here were made by Ferodo and they will just about stand the truck on its nose https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=4068&t=Brake_Pads_LPG506_/_3

This might help, with apologies for the accent.

Two possibilities. I fitted a set of these roughly 6 years ago, mostly because I do a lot of driving on the wrong side of the road and having "lost" a truck and 70 foot trailer in the original NS mirror I thought every little might help. Had no problems with them at all http://www.paddockspares.com/pm752-door-mounted-mirror-defender-large-type-web-exclusive-special-offer.html Alternatively these have a certain bling about them. https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=22474&t=Mirror_Side_LED_Work_Light_12V_/_24V_ Course you could always replace the glass component on your existing damaged mirror, supposing that is the broken element.

The X Mod were selling AP racing clutches for the V8 at a reasonable price, both pressure plate and friction plate. Apparently originally intended for the V8 engined Snatch vehicles

If you are seeking obsolete or obsolescent parts and you know the part number it is always worth a look on www.thepart.com Several dealers are showing stock. http://www.thepart.com/Search.aspx

Might save you a lot of time and angst if you invested in a Land Rover manual rather than relying on haynes. There is a reason the factory manuals are typically 3 times thicker than the haynes

Nah, the original part is item No1 and in the few days since starting this thread it has deteriorated markedly. Now, when driving, it sounds and feels like it is about to fall apart any second. Though when moving it (the centre joint) by hand there is only a very small amount of play. Then again I don't imagine my hand is exerting anything like the level of force provided by the PS system I think given that the original item has lasted for 32 years (and 370,000 miles) and has had neither UJ fail during the 18 years (and 200,000 miles) I have owned it, I will stick with this variant

Thanks for the replies fellows. I have seen the item on Ebay for the price you mention. My thoughts being that it is going to be a minimum of 19 years old and for roughly double that amount there is a new OEM unit advertised in the same place. Which is still significantly less than the price of a genuine item or an OEM item from other vendors. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/91093/0/steering_shaft_collapsable_def I think having heard the wonderful news that the possibility of failure exists I am going to replace it with a new item. On the subject of the later type, and non changeable UJs it looks like there was an interim type which had at least 1 UJ which could be replaced. http://numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/53703/

My existing shaft has play on the joint in the middle and the replacement cost for an OEM unit is approx 3 times the cost of one of these units hence the question

Does anybody know if it is possible to replace the earlier steering shaft with this, please? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEERING-SHAFT-ASSEMBLY-LOWER-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-QME500031/262285989907?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35391%26meid%3D0877ab2def0142fca02df6151baa48e5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D171851468349

Sorry, not paying attention. Presumably if you are not going to fit the compressor, the belt will be taking a completely different route and the tensioner pulley will be mounted elsewhere? Thus the entire bracket can be left off?

Is this the item to which you refer? http://numcat.ru/landrover/p/39/49363/ http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=err4513&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10

Having had a standard black chassis last for nearly 30 years, I am not convinced about the value of galvanising a chassis. Realistically are you going to keep the car that long? will we still be allowed personal transportation in 30 years time?

That mocal sandwich plate looks to be the very item fitted by the factory on pre serpentine engines as an oil cooler take off point

Looks like it just might be a bolt. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=300tdi+injection+pump&client=opera&hs=zhC&tbm=isch&imgil=DdL1GXekeLz20M%253A%253BK_MVc3Q0GxhQrM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.youtube.com%25252Fwatch%25253Fv%2525253Dz5_LITBfXlA&source=iu&pf=m&fir=DdL1GXekeLz20M%253A%252CK_MVc3Q0GxhQrM%252C_&usg=___s0SnRw_U68mg2Ohth_3npInyio%3D&biw=1366&bih=658&ved=0ahUKEwjX1d7O_O3MAhVIDsAKHe0bAFsQyjcIUw&ei=-MxBV9f5EcicgAbtt4DYBQ#imgrc=vBy5AhNdnaaK5M%3A