neil110

On the V8 filter head there is already a tapped port for an oil pressure gauge sender in addition to a port for the sender for the oil pressure warning light, it is capped off with a threaded plug. Simply remove the plug and screw the transducer in. Job done There is yet another port on the filter head for an oil temperature sender unit. Take a feed from the transducer to the gauge, then a gauge live feed (green) to the other side of it and that is the wiring sorted. Oh forgot the red/white for the gauge illumination

Got one of them fitted, it is really easy to do. You will need he pressure transducer DRC2479 to screw into the blanked off port on the filter head, http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/415474/0/oil_pressure_transducer_v8_def_rrc the necessary wiring and the gauge. From memory the part no of the gauge is PRC7320 and the price is eye watering. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/127539/0/indicator_assy___oil_pressure Or you could go here for a suitable gauge and sender unit. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/instruments-gauges

An alternative for the exhaust is to cobble something together so the vehicle is drivable then take it to PD Cough in Nottingham and get them to make you exactly what you want. It will take about a day, cost a few quid and be guaranteed for ever, even if you later put it on a different vehicle

Did Land Rover ever fit ISO child seat fixings to the middle row of seats in Defender before the interior change in 2006/2007? If they did does anybody have, or is anybody willing to take a picture of them, please?

I had the twin port manifolds on mine for a while, they fitted fine, the problem then was that the big Y pipe, part No ESR 225 fouled on the gearbox xmember. Not so much fouled as occupied the same space. I was going to try the twin port manifolds with the front pipes from a Range Rover, part Nos NTC 1864, NTC 1863 and Y pipe NTC 4061 but bought the carp from double S instead. I have mated their manifolds with a custom Y pipe, a TD 5 middle box and tail pipe. This gives a relatively quiet system for trolling round town but sounds a bit nice when I put my foot down

The exhaust manifolds won't fit, tried putting them on mine years ago and (from sepia tinted memory) the near side one rests nicely, directly above the chassis. Oh and don't be tempted to buy double S stainless manifolds. They are absolute rubbish and fit where they touch, they also have minimal engagement with the Y pipe. Plus as another stainless exhaust manufacturer said when I had him make up a Y pipe that fitted. The steel used by double S is very low grade stainless. I think the phrase he used was "only just stainless"

This might give you some ideas

Yes, it will fit and work. I have a 300Tdi pedal and servo on my 1984 V8 Ex Mod are currently selling servos for £65+ http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=10707&t=Brake_Booster_STC4322_74949074

Hello and welcome to the idiosyncratic experience that is owning/driving a Defender I have owned, and been driving, my One_Ten for the last 18 years, Though I have been driving Defenders for 22 years and Land Rovers as a whole since I was 13. They can be a bit addictive, even when you would dearly love to take a large hammer to the thing because it has annoyed you so much.

Honestly it is a bit like asking how long is a piece of string. Only you know how you work, what sort of facilities you have available and the condition of your existing bulkhead. As I said I did mine in about 14 hours, working outside with lots of room, on a warm and sunny day. Everything came apart relatively easily though the steering column was a pig in frilly knickers to remove and would have been MUCH simpler had I removed the pedal boxes and dash beforehand. Nothing is particularly difficult, apart from the above and balancing the heater duct while you start the bolts whilst at the same time making sure you don't trap any control cables or electrics. You may find (as I did) that the top of your heater duct is rotten and needs to be replaced, but I was already going to change that for one without a hole for a speaker so I got away lucky on that. You can speed things up by already having the various plastic thread inserts in place by buying new and leaving the old ones in the redundant bulkhead. You can pretty much guarantee that you won't be able to get some of them out without wrecking them and they are relatively inexpensive to replace. Have all the relevant gaskets for pedal boxes etc tacked in position with a dab of silicon or grease, pre drill any holes for screws (things like the plastic covers where the wiring comes through the bulkhead) all of these save time and angst. Be methodical and have an assistant (if possible) to help you hold some of the bigger bits in place. Replace all the old screw/bolts etc with new so you don't have to worry about recovering the old ones (especially the captive threads for the door hinge bolts) Honestly it sounds a lot worse for do than it is, if you think you might struggle to remember how/where a component goes, take pictures, make notes.

110/130 rear calipers as fitted to a salisbury axle are not the same as those fitted to the 90/discovery or Range Rover. On a salisbury the caliper is bolted to a mounting bracket which in turn is bolted to the rear axle casing using 2 of the bolts which retain the stub axle. The part No of that caliper is STC1268 or 1269 dependent upon handedness. The rear caliper from the 90 etc of a similar era is STC1264/stc1265 which has been superceded by SMC500110/smc500240 For the later (short nose) 110 rear axle fitted from some time around 2001 the rear caliper part No is SMC500260 or SMC500270 (handed again) So apparently the 110/130 has always had different rear calipers If your brakes are already weak there is also the possibility that fitting the rear calipers from a 110/130 will make them even weaker because of the additional amount of brake fluid that the larger pistons will need in order to move them Another thing to take into consideration is the possibility that front/rear discs have different offsets. I know I was supplied a set of 90 rear discs in erroe and whilst it was possible to bolt them to the salisbury axle on the back of mine the offset was out by some margin. The front solid discs on a 110 are also fitted to the front of a RR and Discovery but all rear discs have different part nos so it is doubtful that it is possible to substitute one for the other.

It will never be easier to do than when the truck is already in bits. I swapped mine 18 years ago when I rebuilt my 110 on a replacement chassis (didn't intend to but found the bulkhead was twisted and had some well concealed accident damage.) Honestly it was pretty easy to do, simply stood the rolling chassis side by side and swapped components from one bulkhead to the other. It isn't possible to do it a straight swap sort of way because a fair bit of stuff has to come off in order to get to some items but so long as you take notes and or pictures it is all pretty straightforward. A selection of old jam jars (or similar) is helpful as well for the numerous small screws and plastic thread inserts. In terms of time it probably took me the best part of a summer's day. Starting at 8 in the morning and finishing at 10 in the evening, including pauses for cups of coffee and sandwiches

I would imagine there are loads of old BL models which might have used steering wheels with a similar number of splines. Not sure how many mine has but I know it needs a puller to remove the wheel whilst the fat 300Tdi steering wheel (same splines as series 3) simply pulls off.

There is also this possibility http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/moto-lita-steering-wheels/moto-lita-steering-wheel-kit.html

had similar problems with a later (post '94) 110 where the yokes have to be in a particular position in order for the grease gun to fully engage on the nipple. I got round it in the end by buying a nipple that is about 25mm long. I only fit it when I am greasing the props, the rest of the time I put a grub screw in the UJ

Definitely do the clutch and while it is easy to get at everything give consideration to doing things like the clutch slave cylinder. Be prepared to find lots of things you hadn't anticipated as well, things like prop shaft UJs spring to mind as does A frame ball joint, which might also be the source of your clonk

I had something Similar for a while, it turned out to be a poor connection for the brown/yellow lead on the back of the alternator. It was still charging but not at full capacity. I have a battery condition gauge which gives an indication of the level of charge the battery is receiving.

i think the banjo bolt may be ERR886 and the copper washers ERR894 Agree with Western that they can re-used as described, provided they are solid washers and not crush washers.

I had a similar problem, turned out to be the earth on the sender unit.

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=330615&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10

Friend has just done this. It cost a huge amount of money and to be honest the way he did it would not be my choice. He fitted a 300 onto 200 engine mounts, used a short bell housing R380 and the problems were legion. where to put the air filter/trunking, exhaust front pipe, unique engine mounting for the right hand side. The vibration levels are epic in their scale and it is a horrible place to be when it is running

The basic function of a fuse is to protect the wiring. If you have burning smells from behind the dash that is where your problem lies and where you should look for the fault. Be handy if there were 2 of you, one to look for the problem whilst the other by-passes the failed fuse

The part number for the tread plates in a 110 are 330615 for those on the side of the wheel box, couldn't find any reference to them for the floor

Is it possible to revert the current type hinge joints to the original type? The hinges on the back of mine are worn and when I bought new (genuine) replacements they had more slop in them than the existing hinges

Ah, sorry with you now. I wasn't paying proper attention earlier. I have an early 110 with a V8 in it, as with yours I have a chassis mounted pump and filter. That rigid pipe can be a trial getting it to fit when everything is in situ and firmly mounted. I think I fitted the pipe loosely to the filter head before fitting the unit to the mounting bracket (then had the fight with the fuel pump) when I changed mine back from Diesel The part Nos you have quoted are correct by the book but I wonder if at some stage during manufacture metric fittings were substituted for the original imperial? It has been so long since I last had mine apart I cannot remember whether that pipe has olives fitted or whether the ends of the pipe are formed, If it has olives it ought to be possible to slide the olives off and replace the brass fittings with imperial. If the latter possibly a local diesel specialist place could make you up a new pipe with imperial fittings, they would probably have the necessary tooling to swage the pipe ends