missingsid

Did the same with a Series 1 2.0ltr on the floor. Mind you that has a very flat and thick sump. As it had a carb I just poured in some petrol, no water or exhaust connnected. 10 sec or less to show it running. On the floor it can't go far, on a stand it I guess it needs to be very stable?

Looks to be in proportion to the vehicle though

Interseting thread, but now very confused! If it is all illegal then how come the link to a company specialising in A frames? If it aint leagal then how do they have a business?

Si, I agree with your views, a friend of mine made a product that he applied US, UK and european patents to. Later he found a major US manufacturer copying his product exactly and using his statements around it's benifits. Trouble was he was a small company and whilst he could afford to fight in the UK and maybe Europe it was far to costly to win in the US. This left hin in a position where his loyal supporters would by from him and tell their mates, the rest bought the US product! Sound familiar? As for the Land-Rover Jeep argument, the whole manufacturing policy for Post War Japan was based on buy one copy it sell lots. First Kawasaki -BSA A5 / A10 copy, IIRC some early Jeep axle parts will fit a Suzuki 4x4?

I'll take a large please if they're still going? But it will have to be VERY good to make me look cooool Cheers

Wolfrace made a better version with a hex socket in the cap so you can garuntee to get them off again, plus they were not quite flush as they had a hex bolt head on the outside so you could do them up tight. Looked at the ones shown in the pic above and took them back with out using them they were very poor compaired to the Wolfrace ones. I ran Wolfrace for 2 years on my M5 BMW with no probs. During fitting I used Loctite on the threads first.

Whilst working for RACAL building FFRs and Portable Earth Stations we used Slik Sceen printing for the repeated jobs and Letraset covered with clear lacquer over the top. Done right it looks preaty much the same. Looking at photo it does look like it has been Letraset and lacquered, also looks like you are aquiring bits of old telephone exchange!!

I have been interested in these but just recently i have noticed a number of BMW 3 Series Coupes with a third of the LEDs failed! As it is unlikely that off road damage is to blame I guess they are flawed as a maintenance free solution? At the moment I am trying to see what they use now as the new cars do not seem to be LED but also do not have removable fittings to enable bulb changes?

Looking at your photo, the studs look a little short? Were they like that with the other wheels? Normaly you'd expect them to be longer than the nuts unless they were double ended nuts. Or is this a LR cost saving by ignoring standard practice of 1 1/2 threads sticking out? I'm used to RRC steel wheel hubs and Series hubs so maybe i'm out of date!

Hmm, Yes past tense it only got to join two Land Rovers together the once! It doesn't have any flexy pipe just not attached to the body very well so it floats abit in the middle. The bit about the bent clutch arm, does this happen often? I know about the chip fat engine problem of the arm breaking through but not that the arm on an LT95 can bend? Picture of one would be great Thanks for the help.

A month ago I got in my V8 LT95 fitted hybred and the clutch peadal went down to the floor! I gave it a few pumps and had a clutch again. A week later and the same thing happened, only this time I could not get it back. My first thought was cylinder seals. So off I went and got new seals, pulled the master cylinder and slave and duely changed them. No change pedal still goes to the floor! Next I got a second slightly newer spare master cylinder and pulled out the pedal box etc. to change it, but still using the innards fom the other as it had the new seals. Guess what pedal still goes to the floor. Sooo, now I use the Easi Bleed again only this time I forget to take it off when I try the pedal. Hurrah clutch works!! Oh hang on take the Easi Bleed off, pedal to floor. Now I put a short blocked pipe on the master cylinder rather than the pipe to the slave cylinder, loads of pressure on the pedal. Run out of time leave it to next weekend. Eventually after taking everthing off the landy and trying it on the bench (OK on the bonnet) I notice that the slave piston is only moving 3/4 of the distance of the cylinder and retracting after each stroke. Having checked the clutch actuating rod on the gearbox I decide that the piston is not getting anyway near far enough to even start moving the clutch! So after a Litre of brake fluid and two weekends, it wasn't the cylinders it is excessive pedal travel from a worn out clutch. Short term fix add a second piston (spare after using the seal fix kit) as there is no rod adjustment to the slave cylinder and whoopee the clutch now works again Long term I need a new clutch soon as the plates are not as thick as they were. I started to blame LR for poor design that the slave cylinder travel runs out before the clutch is worn out but with more thought and I realise that it is more likely that the problem is due to the mod of making RR Classic pedals fit a Series body!

Wot I heard was that an unplugged sensor is not heated and will DIE As for Brass being easier to drill out isn't it is harder?

This is a very interesting thread as I am looking for a low profile servo (ie fits under bonnet) for my series hybred, I have RRC twin pipe 4 pot calipers on the front, will early Def work for this? If so is there a spare set left on this thread after Fridge and how much? Cheers,

Every now and again I get the same vibration in my hybred. Last time was driving to Billing after stopping to help someone. Got to Billing and thought oops I'm about to lose the gearbox so chose not to drive the offroad course. Going home I realised that it was due to the handbrake. Doh

"5 Anything not capable of carrying more than 4 adults" This would ban my Series 1

I keep waiting for the day your have to trailer a motor to the MOT, it can't be far awwy

When I had a little enforced chat to the boys in blue about my newly purchased car and SORN, the reply was it is an offence to drive a vehicle on the road that is subject to a SORN period! As I have two vehicles on a SORN that I will wish to return to the road, I am very interested in how this topic comes out?

Ah good info cheers that will save me doing that then Watching motors with fiddles it looks really easy to lock em up, but I guess with big diameter grippy tyres it all makes sense. What happens if you air down the tyres is there a high risk of losing a tyre?

Might be the photo or my eyesight buut, the roof line where the roof meets the side don't look straight to me? Mind you without a bar you would not have driven it home!

Couldn't you use RRC 4 pot front calipers (or is this why 90 fronts was suggsted)? Then you have one piston for the foot brakes and one for the fiddle brake?

The mamual says to use a gas anyliser, I bought one, the range doesn't help set it so I now watch for the smoke. I keep a small srew driver in the motor so I can change it. Put a dot or line of paint on the screwheads so you can turn them equally. With out this I could not work out how much I had turned them.

After a couple of years of trying to get work (I live smack bang in he centre for the Telecommunications Industry which was wiped out by T Blair's greed) I have finally managed to, survive Cancer, keep my house and stay sane. My new job however is 50 miles around the M25 so now my new job is at risk of being uneconomical due to another Blair Tax

Thought of that, this is a legal number (age related) P155 OFF however funnily it has never been issued

Some years ago i walked passed a house which had matching identical Capri's (told you it was some time a go) anyway what got my attention was the fact the both identical cars had identical number plates! One car I believe was an old style Irish or Northern Ireland plate that used a Z to match a 2 in the English plate? Looked really cool though

Mighty purdy gluing