JohnnoK

I don't think the viscous will like that much.

I bought a Britool torque wrench in a "Specials" pile of stuff at an Agricultural Co-Op on a trip to fix a broken-down chopper, but it's handle had been unscrewed completely and the shims had been lost and I could not get it close to calibrated with our Acratork at work, so I called the Distributor up and explained the story and asked if they could fix it for me as it had been a real bargain and was worth spending the money on. Time and a half went by and they called to say it was not repairable, but that they didn't have the same Nm only model in stock and would Sir accept a bilingual Nm/Ft-lb one? Sir most certainly DID accept it, with profuse thanks.

I see from that link that they are now part of Facom Group. On the strength of using Facom tools every day at work for the last 8 years, I'd say find another supplier or buy older/used Britool stuff.

Sorry for the delay, it worked well when it was coaxed into life, but a lack of care and maintenance made it a frustrating process.

There is a crowd outside Cape Town called Pon Steyn, but you will likely need to be seated for the price. https://www.ponsteyn4x4.co.za/contact/

I managed to snag one of these nice and cheap.. Now, I need 3 phase power at home to drive it...

The pedal position is adjusted from inside the cabin.

Yes, 'twas I. Still looking for one and will post up as soon as I get lucky.

My Missus is struggling with the clutch of the Td5 and a defective knee, so the idea is to go automatic from the manual I currently have. A mate has kindly offered me an auto box free of charge, but it's out of a Disco 1, will it work or is the D2 box a totally different animal? Another idea that sprang into my mind was to fit a remote booster like was used in older Brit cars, MGB, Mini etc. Is that feasible or is the required flow going to be too much for the servo? This sort of thing.

Does the smoke smell strongly of diesel and did it have a misfire? If so, you probably have a dead injector/s. Is the car using water or pressurising the coolant hoses? If so, you need a new head gasket and to have your head pressure tested for cracks. If it's pressurising the hoses, your head gasket is probably the culprit and if it's just using water it's likely a cracked head into one of the exhaust ports.

We had a Karcher at work and it was great.

Why not just change the front diff to a Disco 2 one?

Isn't there a tie-in with an oil pressure switch, too? I may be way off base, but there is a lingering fragment of a thought along those lines. Something to do with the pump continuing to run after the initial prime when the engine has started.

Get hold of this bloke... http://www.extraefi.co.uk he is on v8forum.co.uk too.

I don't know how compatible they will be with your Mahindra, but this crowd do replica bits.. https://www.mdjuan.com.ph

Happy belated New Year, may it be better than last year in all respects!

There will be enough path for the earth to run through the various bolts from the manifold to the block and on to the earth strap, but it may well go via the loom, too. Have a rummage in RAVE's electrical library to be sure.

Now, get yourself a coffee tin and start putting the spare change in it for the AMC head...

Have a look at the AMC replacement heads, they are a lot better made than the stock ones and address all the weaknesses of stock.

Thanks, Simon! I may have one coming, if the bloke bothers, if not, I will take you up on your offer.

Contact Marty here.. http://p38webshop.co.uk

That should work as a temporary fix, but watch your temperatures in the heat, you might find it starts running hot.

What about the ally or steel faced foam sandwich panels they use for industrial cold rooms?

It sounds like the oil heat exchanger has failed. It lives on the left side of the engine below the exhaust manifold/behind the oil filter and is available as a replacement part. There are also aftermarket ones available that offer better resistance to corrosion, but if you use the correct antifreeze, you should be OK on an OEM one. Have a good look at the housing while you are in there, the pipe spigot is a good point for corrosion and subsequent misery as your coolant leaks out and strands you.

From what I understand it's not a simple bolt-on change. There is some sheetmetal work needed to make the facelift ones fit.