JohnnoK

My understanding is that the electric fuel pump is a no-start failure as it supplies around 7 bar which is regulated to around 4.2 bar in the head.

That would be smashing, if you would, please. Here is my situation...

How is the roof panel attached to the vehicle structure? I need to replace my roof and so far, I have different opinions, namely... 1. It's welded to the frame and the pillars need to be cut and welded 2. It's stuck on with an adhesive and screwed for added strength 3. It's stuck on with adhesive Can anyone clarify for me, please?

Weller are also very good, both gas and electric.

You may even be able to get your Mitutoyo repaired. I mangled a dial indicator at work and reduced it to kit form, and it was repaired and returned to us with a calibration certificate. This is a US address, but the UK should have similar. https://www.mitutoyo.com/support/repair-service/

Romeo, pull the connectors on the ECU and check if they are oily inside. If so, clean them out with some contact cleaner and try again. The Td5 has an issue with oil migrating down the inside of the wiring harness from the injector harness in the tappet cover to the ECU and causing running issues. If it is oily, then you need a new injector harness, JLR 4X4, Roverland or Land Rover Service Centre, all in Montague Gardens should be able to help. It could be a possible turbo issue with the wastegate controller sticking and overboosting, causing it to go into limp mode, but one thing at a time. Start at the ECU harness. I am away at work at the moment, but will be home around the 13th if my shift isn't extended and I have a diagnostic machine that may shed some light on your problem. Where are you located in Cape Town?

I copied my stuff over with Smart Switch using wifi. It's in the Play Store.

This will work for your nano card. https://www.amazon.com/Bluroo-Card-Adapter-Micro-Standard/dp/B00N96YIDM

I recently found a problem with my Td5 where the small line from the left top of the radiator to the reservoir was clogged up and not allowing the air to bleed out the radiator. I unclogged it and it returned to it's old self after a few incidences of overheating.

Lovely stuff!

I just bought a J2 Pro and it has a dual SIM capability. It's a separate SIM holder, too, so you can use your SD card as well.

If it's the usual Landy problem of being well oiled, then I'd toss in a liter or 2 of petrol, slosh it about to dissolve the oil and then throw it out. Then, mix up a batch of dishwash soap and water and fill it to soak for a while, drain and partially fill so you can slosh it about to move the soap through the fins. Finally, rinse with water.

Stick is the way to go, with training to do it properly, even if non-coded.

Depending on the size of the item, buy your significant other a day at the Spa and bung the bits in the dishwasher. Make sure you clean the washer nicely afterwards.

Thanks again, paintman. Right now, it's at the saving up to do it stage, but I am bookmarking this thread to refer back to when I pull the trigger on the job.

I have a Huco on my P6 and it works great.

Paintman, Thank you, sir! The boxes are essentially the same, barring the electronic control and some internal differences, so that will serve as a starting point for a project.

Thanks for the tips regarding the tool, will definitely do that. Can you point me at a drawing for this plate, please? This is going to be a slow "as funds permit" job, so don't be surprised if it goes quite for a while...

Cheers for the replies, folks. Considered opinions all seem to point to the flex plate as the likely culprit. Apparently they either break and lose drive to the TC or they warp under load and disconnect the torque converter from the lugs of the pump drive causing pressure loss.

The oil at the connector to the ECU will definitely be an issue, I'd suggest removing the plugs and giving them a good soaking with contact cleaner, on both plugs and sockets. The new harness is a good start, but remember, the loom from the head to the ECU is still saturated with oil that needs to be cleaned off regularly. Did you spray the connector at the head when you fitted the new harness, too, as the oil gets into the engine bay loom at that point?

After dropping the brats at school, I stopped in front of my gate to open it, left the car idling in Neutral, and when I got in and selected Drive it made a weird "grumbling" noise and didn't go into gear. Reverse was brief and then any selection after that was a no-go. Revving it in Drive got a short hop, enough to get it moving, and then back to nothing. The oil level is good and the GEARBOX FAULT message comes up, but not every time I tried to work through diagnosis. To add insult to injury, my Nanocom won't come on when plugged in. It works on my Disco, not the P38. Any ideas, please?

What is the cranking voltage? IOW, when you are cranking to start, what voltage is present at the coil? It could be that your battery is marginal and dropping too low for the coil to operate while cranking, but it's fine when the starter isn't drawing current, hence your good spark when testing it.

When I replaced the head on my D2 I did that. It has been starting fine and no signs of leaking fuel anywhere, which is better than I can say about the head gasket.... As for how long to drive.... I don't think there is a set replacement schedule for them, it's one of those "if it's not broken, don't fix it" sort of things.

Thanks, bear! I will give it a go, but right now the old girl is down with a blown head gasket. Seeing as I fitted a new head last time it happened, I am going to bite the bullet and do a rebuild of the head with liners, new bearings etc. At 350k mileage, I think it's done well and maybe it will do something for the blowby and oil leaks.

I had bad shimmy when I first bought my Td5 and it was down to the rod end of the drag link being worn. I recently fitted new front discs and pads and it's back, albeit very mild, along with "pulsating" when slowing down, so it is going to be wheels off and discs checked this weekend.