JohnnoK

Reading this thread has me wondering what to do. I recently bought some bits off John Craddock for my upcoming clutch job on the Disco, and when the bits arrived.... The heavy duty release bearing is in a BLUE BOX...😬 as is the master cylinder. Now, the master cylinder is going on, as replacing that won't be a master class in frustration, but the release bearing has me worried...

So, here are the remains of my release bearing.... My question is HOW does this happen? I have never seen anything this bad before.

It works well, don't use the tablets, use the liquid soap like Fairy Liquid or whatever is locally available, but don't use too much as it foams a lot and that will need to be rinsed after the wash as it will leave residue.

I also need to replace the seals, so it makes sense to do that.

Overthinking? ME!??? Never.....🤔 I decided to make the 2 cradles and pull the TC separately, then the gearbox. I need to replace the seals between them anyway, and this makes the load lighter to manhandle.

Did you get your one ramp straightened out? Looking great, and you have every reason to be well chuffed with yourself.

I need to pull my gearbox to fix a clutch problem, and my question is will the R380 jacking support tool ST3211M, attached below, support both the box and TC or will I need to make provision for the additional weight of the TC at the rear of the support? I have an adjustable transmission jack to get it all level etc, but the risk of it all tipping over once it is withdrawn off the engine is a question in my mind. Would a strap over the box just aft of the bellhousing be sufficient to prevent tipping or should I extend it to below the TC? Thanks in advance!

I know of one, but it's a bit far away, in Cape Town. Besides, I doubt the owner would sell it as it is earmarked for a project.

Does it run if you give it a manual spin when you turn it on? If so, it could be the starter capacitor that's croaked.

According to SACHS,.. https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/sachs-service-greasing-clutch-disc-hub-spline I am going to be changing the clutch on my D2 soon and will be using Loctite 8009 or NEVER-SEEZ Nickel compound, whichever I find first in my garage.

We have the Touch 'n Tuff ones at work and they are perfectly acceptable.

Would it not be economically more suited to source a stronger tail lift from a breaker's yard? It just seems to me that all that cutting and welding, the, the bodywork and finishing is going to amount to a lot more in terms of time/cost than a used lift and overhaul of the lifting gear.

Bear in mind that those hinges will also need to keep the roof firmly attached on the road while driving, and not just allow the roof to open.

Technically, the roof panel and the framing for the roof are spot welded all down the gutters, around 50-ish spots per side on my D2. As for function, I must agree that all they do is direct the rain to the closest point where it will leak into the cabin....

We have an array of barrier materials that we use to try and get around/minimise corrosion, but in many cases, the only real "fix" is to regularly remove, inspect, retreat, reinstall to be really effective.

I think it's called an unloader. It basically vents the line from the second piston to the tank, (which will have a non-return valve) and that allows it to start up without internal pressure. MR HIPPO beat me to it.

I was getting it from someone trying to flog me a diff, but a visit with the Mk1 eyeball tells me I am misled. My sincerest apologies.

I had a Kershaw A100and liked it a lot, until some nimble fingered bugger liked it more. I'd recommend it, particularly for the vise grip feature of the pliers.

Rear exhaust and fuel tank will be untouched as only the front diff is other handed, rear remains as is. OP may need to adjust front section of exhaust if it's a V8 and obviously the entire axle needs swapping out with a Disco2 one, and the front propshaft (I think) as the P38 may be different due to transfer case size and geometry.

Can't you have the wheel centers re-positioned where you need them?

Good man!!

The only drawback I can see is that the sheet thins out as it's drawn down, starting at the edge of the shape, and that edge tends to be a weak point and fracture prone. You may want to experiment with thicknesses of sheet to get best results.

Agreed, but for his wish to go to the LT230 he will require the Disco offset to the right versus P38 to the left.

You push them through, hold the body and pull the nut out, then tighten it. Unscrew the nut, push the stem back in and withdraw to remove. I find they hold tighter than Clecos, but take longer to fit and remove. A mate who is an aircraft sheetie has both, for quick or strong applications.

Rear axle is the same as D2, you will only need front.