hurbie

after a bit off google , it seems the 4th gear is direct , there's no drive in 4th either . so not a layshaft bearing failure . could it be the clutch center broken out .....

power is not reaching the transfer case , you can put the car in gear , with handbrake on , and the mainshaft is not spinning (only making awfull grinding noise's. so it has to be something before the transfer box .

hello all , my until this afternoon very reliable 1987 110 with a disco 200tdi, lt77 and lt230 has lost all drive ... the car stopped with a noise like your having a bad gearshift , a loud grinding noise from the gearbox/transfer case area , with some trouble i got the car another 500 meter , sometimes with a little drive , the remaining distance coasting . took the PTO plate of the transfer case and looked at the mainshaft and gear , spline's are still there . when i put the car in gear (handbrake on) the mainshaft and gear do not turn .... drained the main gearbox , and no metal , just a little "swarf" , also on the magnetic drainplug . got the filter out and no metal there .... so what may be the cause , catastrofic failure of the main box ?

i know it's a little different , but on my 110 with LT77 , the gearbox falls backwards , had to support it with a strap around the crossmember .

is this the one Britannica Restaurations sels ?

i would replace the pressure plate as wel (so the complete clutch) , and while the box is off , the rear cranckshaft seal.

or just replace the bolt and brass ball , en for 6,24 pounds youre done 🙂 https://www.masai4x4.com/Rear-Door-Hinge-Pin-Kit-for-Defender-&-Series-Stainless-Steel-p134573548

as far as i know the only difference in the injector with the wire is a knock sensor built in ..

so a door made in 1985 that's in need of work is proof that it is a incompetent buisiness , how many car's have you owned that still have doors made in 1985 ..... most off that age cars are long gone ....

as far as i know , the caliper mounts in the same place as the non vented caliper , only the middle spacer make's it thicker . so pipe's from a non vented caliper should work as wel ...

can't wait to see it on the trailer !

90 mph 👀

https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/276054_grommet_1_5_8_hole_size_1_1_4 1 1/4" seems to be 32mm , so maybee close enough

not in the manual , found this online : https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-electrics/cable-clips-ties-grommets/grommets_52846 so it seems you're right with 276054 in my partsmanual they are not listed individuel , only as part of the positive or negative battery kabel

i struggled with the same question , i think i found it in the original workshopmanual , i'll see if i can find it .

a picture off the problem would help ....

ahhh , now i get it 😂

i don't get it , what's wrong with measuring your own vehicle ?

seems to me the headgasket is gone between 2 and 3

running-in oil is in my belief a thing off the past , when we rebuilt HGV engine's , they get the normal oil , and that is only changed at the normal interval ...(anywhere between 60000km and 140000km depending on use)

that's great news !!

part seems to be FRC6933 "catcher manual transmission oil "

so far i'm happy with my Toyo's 255-85/16 mud terrain profile only drawback is there very heavy (not that i really care , i don't lift them that often...)

my 3 door 110 from 1987 is 3050kg

that will tell you nothing , you have to overcome the friction of the nut on the conn rod . only way to tell what the real torque was , make a small line on the nut and the conn rod, loosen the nut and set the torque wrench to 15 , see if the line drawn , line's up , if not , undo the nut and set the wrench to 16 and do it again..... until your mark lines up , that setting was the previous torque setting.