hurbie
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Everything posted by hurbie
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same as on my 1987 3 door 110 , lift-up handle doors . back door key is the same as the bonnet lock on mine.
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yep , sounds like a bad connection somewhere
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isn't the heater outlet supposed to be a loop , instead of closing the outlet's ?
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200TDi running cold/over cooling. A solution.
hurbie replied to Captainmidnight's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
good find , do you know the partnumber , save's people searching in the future ... -
i would change the exhaust , the 200tdi exhaust is much bigger diameter.
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you can also rewire your fusebox to get the same result , my lighstalk now triggers a relay in the fusebox and using the original wires the relay feeds the lights . for both dip and main beam.
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why would you go with a EU based company , they order the parts from the same UK firms .... LR direct , and some others handle the import duty's for you ... i'm based in the netherlands , and order trough LR direct , and that's what i pay , no extra shipping or VAT trouble's . and a lot cheaper as ordering in the netherlands .
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i use this stuff to seal gaps , if you use thicker it will act as padding. https://shop.deltarubber.co.uk/self-adhesive-expanded-neoprene-sponge-strip.html
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push the most out off the tube with a rag and a long stick , then clean most off it out with more rags and brakecleaner , rebuild axle and change oil after some use ...
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just a quick inbetween question , if you take off the outer skin , what kind of spanner do you need to hold the top bolts , you can get a ratchet with an extension on the inside , but the outside boltheads are very close to the top off the skin , with a folded piece of aluminium in the way for a normal box spanner, or open ended one.
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it looks a bit like a "deutsch dt" connector
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17 years , hows that for a thread revival
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you could try connecting a 12 volt source (extra battery) to the dead battery , and then hook up your smart charger , normally they start charging . you can then remove the extra 12 volt , and let it charge the dead battery . on my work battery's that had gone down to 12.1 volt are considerd "dead/broken" and don't get warranty ...
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good choice , i use the same and happy with them , however i just discoverd some very fine hairline cracks after 6 years ....
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rotated all the tyres (spare to right rear , right rear to front right etc) and found a almost broken drive member ... had a good spare around , so fitted that , but the driveshaft is'nt in a very good order , so i have to make some time to fix that as well ...
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last bits in this morning , so she's ready again ... (all thanks to the wonderfull weather , sunshine and 20 degree))
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in hindsight , the failure wasn't recent , about a month ago i noticed the same noise as when the clutch failed , a short "grinding" of gears (i thought) , before that the clutch was "hopping" when driving real slow , so probebly the springs were gone some time ago ....
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didn't notice any play in the shaft .
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can't you just operate the clutch pedal , and put a piece of wood between the seat and pedal , this way it has pressure on it while you investigate.
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and possible buying someone's trouble .... just repair it , you know it will be right then ..
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box is out , this doesn't look to healthy : is it supposed to do this : 20230512_150043.mp4 luckely the engine from the Eurover project has a fairly new clutch in it , so put that in , box is back on . now i only have to put all the remaining bits back together 🙂
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no noise with the gearbox in neutral , noise in all gears , stops if you push the clutch in ... no drive in all gears (even 4th) making progress :
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i'll make a start tomorrow , and see if i can pull the gearbox back enough to see the clutch .
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i normally use the metal "glass" scrapers , just be carefull.
