hurbie

i thought that DC-DC chargers are there to boost the charging voltage to a usefull level if you use long cable's (to load a battery in your trailer wich is 6 meter's away using "thinner" cable ...) but i might be way of in my thinking ...

it would be nice if a colored brochure turned up , to settle this ... (until further info i go with Western, and the rebuilt being gold color ....) (that leaves the question , what was the original factory engine color)

i think they will be in stock when he's returned from holiday ..... (everything is out of stock 😉 )

it looks like the hoop from the rollbar slide's in to this bracket , the hoop (from a softtop) sit's normally just on the tub capping . i think it would be clear if you have all the parts , and get the roof and side's of.

i would guess in the front inner corner off the tub (on top off the wheelarch)

that's looking very smart !

and remember , your rear brake's do only at most 40% of the braking (probebly much less) , so your gain wil not be much over correct adjusted drums ....

maybee this helps : make sure you have the piston's in the right way

as above , i would suggest using a sturdy piece of wood and a big hammer for the last bit , using a puller means the liner will get warm and be really tight , because it take's some time to set this up . as mentioned above , use a heatgun to heat the block a bit .

https://www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/hbm-3-arm-hoonapparaten

it isn't that difficult to get right . strip the lock and the rubber stays from the bonnet (and everything else that is fixed to the bonnet) , then see if the bonnet closses as it should be - if not see where it touches and rectifie. if bonnet closes to the prefered position , put the lock back on , and adjust so it locks (and unlocks) propperly , then put the rubber stays in , and adjust left and right height ... take a cold drink, and enjoy youor marvel 🙂

doesn't look like it : https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/brake-master-cylinder-kit-aeu3015-girling.html

just had a look , 1 have two bulkheads (110) with the old mastercylinder first one : swervo: second one : servo: also had a look in the serie's 3 manual , but no seal there . maybe the seal is suplied in the rebuilt kit for the mastercylinder ?

maybee the cutout is there to allow brake fluid to exit the master cylinder , in case of a bad seal , and prevent it from entering the servo .

maybee it's in the rebuilt kit for the servo 18G8951L for the type 50 or AEU2741 fot the type 80 if i don't forget i can have a look this weekend , i have at least one bulkhead with the older mastercylinder , to see if it has some sort off seal in between.

the manual state's : "press-in the Railko bush housing ensuring the machined flat is towards the back of the housing, when the housing is fitted to the axle , the flat faces inboard "

that is looking really good !

i'll be more then happy to take one off you , so the one for #Doorknob is not traveling alone to holland 😉

my advice would be to find a LT230 manual , you can find these online. this has all the torque value's in the older the manual the beter , as newer manuals don't state the trick with the rope spun around the gear to measure the resistance. in the newer manuals you need special tools to get the right resistane/preload measured.

we recently had a health investigation at the work place (not sure how to name this) , the guy doing all the test, told me after the hearing test , that they see a lot of hearing loss on young mechanic's who use noice canceling headset/earphone's . so i'm not to keen on using them (as i'm allready losing some hearing in the higher Hz range , "pretty normal for mechanics at my age " i was told ....)

can you post some pic's of your engine bay , and the air intake's ?

Nicholson used to be of good quality , not much experience since it changed names . https://www.crescenttool.com/all-tools/shaping

can't comment on this , but if i remember well , you did a compression test with some decent outcome (all cylinders more or less the same value. so i don't think you gain anything from your leaktest ..... to me the problem isn't compresion or leaking valve's , but more fuel/air related...

from the manual :

was it working before you installed the slick-shift ? , or did you put the remote shifter and slickshift in at the same time ? if the later , i would get rid off the slickshifter and make sure that all works as it should be in stock form .