hurbie

can you post some pic's of your engine bay , and the air intake's ?

Nicholson used to be of good quality , not much experience since it changed names . https://www.crescenttool.com/all-tools/shaping

can't comment on this , but if i remember well , you did a compression test with some decent outcome (all cylinders more or less the same value. so i don't think you gain anything from your leaktest ..... to me the problem isn't compresion or leaking valve's , but more fuel/air related...

from the manual :

was it working before you installed the slick-shift ? , or did you put the remote shifter and slickshift in at the same time ? if the later , i would get rid off the slickshifter and make sure that all works as it should be in stock form .

i would remove the rocker shaft , and measure direct in the cups off the pushrods , that way you get the direct stroke without any angels to factor in . but it might just work ok to measure on the rocker. and if you have the equipment i would measure the lift height of the injection pump to see if the mounting flange for the timing pin is in the right place (no personal experience but i read a couple occasions where the flange was mounted incorrect.

did they checked the timing off the pump ? , or did they checked the timing with the timingbelt ? something else to think off , maybee a worn camshaft (you can measure the lift on the rocker's/pushrods , so no need to disassemble the complete engine for this)

looks pretty healthy to me , i would give the injection pump a look . did you have the injectors checked for spray patern after the new nozzle's ? on my Eurover project , i had the injection pump checked (just to be sure it functions propperly) , and got a replay from the shop that it's was really shot .... rust inside and some parts worn out ... i think this is a very overlooked part of the engine (also because it's quit expensive to overhaul ...)

doing the brakes on my daily 110 , (not the Eurover project) i ran in to the same problem as with the new calipers for the Eurover project , the calipers on my daily use the same splitpin's and spring plate's . i was looking for the partnumber and found this topic , just to see i hadn't put the correct partnumber in for future reference ... so the early solid disc 110's that the "normal pin's with a small splitpin don't fit , use the STC8573 (basicly a 6x100 splitpin with spring plate's .

it seems you are quit right ... , i seem to remember reading somewhere (tought it was in the overhaul manual) , that it was sealant .. on my engine there's some sort off steel plug's in the hole's and only 2mm under the surface off the block , so a propper rubber bung wouldn't fit , could that be a later "fix" ?

the "rubber bung" is more likeli a dab off sealant (at least on 200tdi it is)

@simonr can't see the video's , there on private settting .

i was amazed how little it takes to get the diff out .

might be the oil jets under the pistons , these have a ball valve in them to (i think) prevent oil flowing back . (that is , if the 300tdi still has these ... )

be carefull using the spreader , i seem to remember that you only use 1 flat off the nut once it's taken up the slack , or you will stretch the casing !

number seems to be ESR1594 and have a good look to see if they are not left behind in the cooler and oilfilter housing !

got a reaction from a facebook group : Richard Hall Early flywheel housings had a circular recess which needs to be filled with sealant. If the flywheel housing has no recess it should be fitted "dry" using gasket ERR1440 which has preformed sealant beads on it. If you buy ERR1440 and it does not have the sealant beads that is because it is cheap rubbish. I use Elring gaskets which are the same material and construction as the original LR ones.

this is the text from the manual flywheel housing.pdf

hello all , question about the mounting off the flywheel housing on a 11L (200tdi defender spec) , in the workshop manual it state's to put a bead off sealant around the back off the block to mount the flywheel housing , in the parts manual there's a gasket mentioned (ERR1440) , is the sealant a modification from the gasket ? or do you use a gasket with a extra bead off sealant ?

we have these in the workshop , but i prefer a thread file over these ... i find it very difficult to restore a thread properly with these .

a picture of the box would help

on my 110 it's in the lower hole , and i don't have a bonnet release cable , so the hole u used to mount the valve could wel be for that .

mmm have a look at HGV trailer shocks , really big , and not that expensive ..... i gues it's more to do with the market these 4x4 shocks go to .... https://www.truckentrailerparts.nl/producten/artikelenbestand/bpw-artikelen/-22016-schokbreker-bpw/

sometimes when a swaged balljoint is used , the other side has a sleeve in between the track rod and the joint , the sleeve has internal (for the joint to fit) and external threads (for the sleeve to fit in the track rod) , so you can adjust the trackrod on one side .

isn't that to stop the tyre rotating on the rim .... i don't see much off road in a go-kart , but i might be wrong ....