PaulMc

That's the correct connector, for the valve that looks like this - .

On the Defender 90/110 12/24V vehicles, there's a double crankshaft pulley, with a single drive belt to each of the alternators. .

The listed belt for the 24V 90A alternator, is - 532002 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=532002 .

I DON'T BELIEVE IT! I've been watching a TD5 instrument binnacle on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Td5-Clocks-Speedo-Temp-Fuel-Guage-/252119128338 It's just sold for £311 (+ £10 postage) .

Leoni Wiring Systems are the OE supplier to Land Rover (and several other vehicle manufacturers). They have a facility here in the UK (the old Lucas-RISTS site) - LEONI Wiring Systems UK Ltd.Lower Milehouse Lane Newcastle-under-Lyme Staffordshire, ST5 9BT UK Phone +44 (0)1782-604200 Fax +44 (0)1782-604240 The terminals you linked to, and the ones that I linked to at Polevolt, are by MTA - http://www.mta.it/en/home Some of them may be compatible with the Leoni fuse box The fuse box part/assembly numbers (along with several other bits on current Land Rovers) are in the same format as used by Ford. .

Have a look at Polevolt for a selection of fuse box terminals, including a busbar type - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Terminals_for_Fuse_Boxes.html Does that Tdci (2012 onwards) fuse box have a maker's name on it? .

Polevolt sell the 35-way connector to fit that ECU - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_ECU35.html .

Jim Davis at Eastern Beaver (a motorcycle connector specialist, based in Japan), has produced a couple of very good tutorials on how to 'crimp' terminals for which you don't have a proper crimper, using needle-nosed pliers, and soldering - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/crimping/crimping.html http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/MP280_Help/mp280_help.html .

Sorry Mo, I posted the wrong link This is the one that I meant to post - http://www.lrocb.be/LR_Doc/Defender/Defender_MY1999_2002_WSM.pdf (to avoid any confusion, I've also edited the link in my previous post)

You can download the one for Defender TD5 1999 & 2002 Model Years, here - http://www.lrocb.be/LR_Doc/Defender/Defender_MY1999_2002_WSM.pdf

For which model of Defender?

Mo - which manuals do you need? I've got a few that have been extracted from RAVE, and will open with any version of Adobe Acrobat. .

Join the D2BC forum (it's free to join) - http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/index.php You have to be logged-in to read the threads. Several people have modified their ACE valve block to use standard hydraulic fittings. The most recent write-up on this, is here - http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=43735 .

Excellent How did you solve your problem with intermittent connection on the instrument warning lights ?

On older vehicles with wiring with the thick PVC insulation, it's very difficult to crimp these terminals properly. I know what you mean - have a look at my post, here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14892&p=802060 You won't find many suppliers who sell 0.5mm2 cable with trace colours, by the metre. The only one that I'm aware of, is Colin at Kojaycat - http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/%22TW0.5mm%20Cut%20Tracer%22/SubProducts/%22TW0.5mm%20Cut%20Tracer-0014%22 .

Gordon, The 040 terminals in the 16-way and 20-way instrument warning lights connectors, won't take 1.0mm2 cable. They're sized for 20 - 24 AWG, which works-out to 0.2 - 0.56mm2 The factory crimps on these terminals are narrow and high - . . It's not possible to replicate the above, using the Hozan crimper. However, the Hozan crimper will crimp these terminals, you just have to do it in stages. Stage 1 - crimp the conductor, using 1.7L Stage 2 - crimp the conductor, using 1.4 Stage 3 - crimp the insulation, using 2.4L Stage 4 - crimp the insulation, using 2.0L Stage 5 - crimp the insulation, using 1.7L It sounds a bit of a 'faff' - but, you soon get the hang of it. When I send you your connectors and teminals tomorrow, I'll include an 040 terminal crimped to a length of 0.5mm2 cable, that I've crimped using the stages above. Paul.

Those parts CD's are copy protected with 'Hexalock' - you won't easily make a working copy of them. Because of the way Hexalock works, they'll only run on earlier versions of Windows. Hexalock also prevents a copy on your hard drive from running, unless the original CD is in the CD/DVD drive.

It's a shame that Gruinard Island has been de-contaminated

The speedo transducer's earth goes back to a splice joint in the engine harness (this splice joint is shared with several other devices on the engine harness), from there it runs back to the main harness via the engine harness/main harness connectors C0162/C0448 In the main harness, it runs down to a Blue 20-way header (C0287) in the locker under the driver's seat, and from there it runs back to the main earth header (C0550) which is mounted to a stud on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. .

The main harness to chassis harness connectors on a 300Tdi Defender are AMP Econoseal female connectors. The mating AMP Econoseal male connectors to fit to your existing chassis harness are readily available from Polevolt - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html .

Are these any good? http://www.wheelspacers.uk.com/index.php?cat=c354_nach-Gewinde.html&gw=6&kf=39 - total height: 24,0 mm - height hexagon (A): 18,0 mm - height spheric flange (B): 6,0 mm - head diameter (D1): 28,0 mm .

A 3-way connector with the wires - Yellow/Black, Yellow/Pink, and Orange/Slate - is for the ACE lower accelerometer - .

You're welcome .

That one has me puzzled as well I looked for it, when Mo posted that picture a couple of days ago, here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=93209&p=809302 The Discovery-2 uses that Sumitomo 250 series 3-way connector as one of the connections between the main harness and the heater harness - but, I've never seen it on the Defender - and, it doesn't appear in any of the Wiring Diagrams or Electrical Libraries that I have. From the picture, it looks as though it's part of the A/C unit's harness, rather than the vehicle's harness. The only connection between the A/C unit's harness and the vehicle's harness, is the Sumitomo Brown 7-way HD250 connector - I'm wondering if the 3-way connector is the A/C harness connection to the unit's blower motor? .

To release the terminals from the BMW sealed 4-way connector between the main harness and engine harness - The connector housing has a sliding lock plate on it's front, once this is slid open, the terminals can be pushed out from the front to the rear (they can be quite resistant to moving) – don’t pull on the cable, as it will probably pull it out of the terminal. Locked (lock-plate slid over to the left) – Opened (lock-plate slid over to the right) – If you do damage any of the terminals or wire seals on these connectors - then, I do have some replacements. TD5/Puma fuse box terminal blocks These pictures show the secondary terminal locks, which just push through the terminal block (it makes it easier, if you unclip the terminal block from the fuse board first) - Secondary terminal lock removed - This picture shows the holes on the front of the terminal block that you should push a couple of jeweller's screwdrivers, or the 2-pronged terminal release tool into to release the terminals (they can be quite tricky to release) - This picture of a removed terminal, shows the tangs that must be depressed to release the terminal - If you need to add or replace terminals in this type of fuse box - then, I have compatible terminals. .