PaulMc

Are you referring to the 10-way and 14-way light grey sealed connectors that plug the wing harnesses into the main bulkhead harness ? If so, these are Sumitomo HW Sealed Series connectors, and the terminals that you've linked to at Polevolt (in your eBay message to me) are the correct male and female terminals to fit the HW Sealed Series connectors. However, Polevolt only have the terminals, they don't list the wire seals. I can supply both male and female terminals, along with the wire seals. .

In my experience, unless they have a White hat, they usually know b*gger-all about the legalities (or otherwise) of vehicles. .

Colin's latest hydroforming project .

The Idle Air Stepper Motor connector is a 4-way female Delphi sealed MetriPack 150.2 'pull-to-seat' device connector. It can be bought from Simtek - http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/4_way_delphi_pull-to-seat_sensor_connector/?k=:::2644147 It's also used on Ducati motorcycles - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301134899449 The TPS connector, as everyone has already said, is a 3-way female JPT connector. .

The female connectors are on the vehicle's harness, the male connectors are on the ECU box. There are no wire to wire male connectors made in this series, only the PCB mounted male connectors. If you look at the ready-made ECU extension harnesses, you'll see that the male connectors are, in fact, the PCB male connectors, which have had the wires soldered to their PCB pins, which have then been encased in plastic enclosures - When you work out the cost of the connectors and terminals + the cable + the sleeving + the enclosures for the male connectors + labour The prices that suppliers charge, starts to look understandable. I've seen write-ups on forums and blogs on the web, where people have claimed to have cut the vehicle's wiring harness, and inserted additional lengths of cable in each circuit (soldered and heatshrink covered), thus extending the length, without problems (don't forget that the crankshaft position sensor's wiring is screened). If you want to make your own extension harness, both the Red and Black male and female connectors can be bought from Simtek - http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/red_econoseal_36_way/?k=:::1562574 http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/36_way_red_econoseal_female_cable_socket_cfp/?k=:::5901247 http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/econoseal_36_way_wire-to-board_tab_header/?k=:::1562594 http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/red_econoseal_36_way_wire_to_board/?k=:::5704469 .

I can't help you with a part number for an OBD II male plug - but, one of the ready-made extension leads would do for this part and the cable. The OBD II female socket used on TD5 Defenders is TE (AMP) part number 348822-2 - which is not easily available in the UK, and would have to be ordered from a US supplier. However, it is available from Land Rover, as part number YPC107920 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/199149/5497/connector___cable The female terminals are Land Rover part number YPL10108 - but, these are not available to order. However, they can be bought under their TE (AMP) part number 776001-1 from RS, as RS part number 712-2056 http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/7122056/ .

Unless you can source a 2nd-hand one at a good price, you won't want to buy a new gearbox harness - they're around £280 The first two (White) connectors are AMP Multilock 6-way & 10-way female. I have those connectors, with or without terminals. The connector on the selector is a 12-way AMP MQS connector (I have those too), it's difficult to see from the picture if it or its wiring are damaged. PM me

First, you need to remove the secondary terminal lock from the front of the connector. It's the White plastic bit shown in the picture below, which just un-clips - With that out of the way, the individual terminals are released by lifting the terminal retaining tab above the terminal, whilst pulling GENTLY on the terminal's cable. There is a special tool for this, but a jeweller's screwdriver or safety pin works just as well. You can see the terminal retaining tab on this 6-way Econoseal connector (which is from the same connector series as the Red and Black ECU connectors) - .

Google found this flickr gallery of someone's visit to the museum - http://www.flickr.com/photos/ell-r-brown/sets/72157621921666871 Which contains this picture of the drill - Fullsize version (2736 x 3648), here - http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3446/3823885074_b23d3445b7_o.jpg .

Apart from them being too long and unwieldy for London's streets, they had a habit of self-combusting .

I'm pretty sure that it's a Molex Mini-Fit connector - http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=minifit_jr&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=wire_to_board_connectors They can be bought from RS, Farnell, or on eBay. .

The TD5 gauge bulb holders are part number - YAJ100390 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YAJ100390 .

Wiring is quite straight-forward, it's all in the RAVE wiring diagrams. I have the 6-way connectors and terminals for the levelling switch - Or, you could just use 6.3mm Lucar terminals. You don't need complete new wing harnesses - Land Rover make a 'Link Harness' for the levelling motors, this has the levelling motor connector and boot at one end, and a 3-way male Econoseal connector at the other end. The part number for this link harness is – AMR5833 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/107451/0/wiring_link___headlamp_adj_motor If you want just the levelling motor connectors, they're available through VW/Audi (VAG) parts, consisting of a 3-way connector, protective cover, and 3 x 2.8mm female terminals. Their VAG part numbers are - Connector housing - 311 906 231B Protective cover - 281 919 141A Terminals - 000 979 105 or 000 979 106 – the terminals are pre-crimped to 1.0mm2 cables (what VAG call "Repair Wires") . I couldn't find a VAG part number for uncrimped terminals; but, the dealer should be able to look them up. .

You need - GROMMET 35MM BLANKING - DCP7299L http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/84034/3902/grommet_35mm_blanking http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-DCP7299L .

Phil, Have a look at - http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/ James has used a Red insulated bullet with AMR1425 - .

Mike, That looks good Could you could not use Discovery sun visors with that overhead console ? .

For anyone who needs an STC1205 bulb and holder for their hazard warning lights switch, you may be interested in this eBay listing - BRAND NEW RANGE ROVER P38 HAZARD WARNING LIGHT SWITCH - AMR2691 - LAND ROVER These switches are £1.00 each + £0.71 postage (to the UK) Each switch has 2 x STC1205 bulbs in it If you buy an STC1205 bulb and holder from a dealer, they're £3.40 each (incl. VAT) .

2002 TD5 ??? If so, the easiest way to remove it without damaging it, is to push it out from the rear. As for the switch's bulb, it's not listed in Microcat for the 2002-2006, or 2007 -> Defenders (so most dealers tell you it's not replaceable and try to get you to buy a complete new switch). It is replaceable, it's listed for the 300Tdi Discovery-1 Hazard Warning Lights Switch (which is essentially the same switch, but vertical instead of horizontal), its part number is - STC1205 - BULB & HOLDER ASSEMBLY, CLEAR http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-STC1205 .

I found this picture in this Flickr group - https://www.flickr.com/groups/1971051@N24/ .

On a 4 x terminal 70A relay, you would run the 2 x live wires from the same terminal. The large (9.5mm) terminals can usually be supplied to suit 4.0 - 6.0mm2, or 6.0 - 10.0mm2 cable. As you're using 2 x 4.0mm2 cables, you would need the larger terminals. Using 2 x 40A relays (one per element) would also work. .

The factory fitted relay is 40A It's not clear from Microcat for the TD5 Defender, as it doesn't specify which relay does what. But, for the Puma Defender, Microcat specifies each relay's function and, for the heated windscreen, the relay is - YWB500060 This is the same relay used for several other functions and, if you look it up, it's specified as a 40A relay - http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17158/99/YWB500060-40AMP-RELAY.html http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWB500060G.cfm As you have signs of burning at the relay socket, it will need changing anyway, so you might as well change it for a 70A relay and socket, with dual feeds to suit your heated screen. .

The GLR10 requires a momentary positive to initiate it. The Land Rover timer (PRC6796) is initiated by a momentary negative. So, you will need to alter your timer and switch wiring to suit. This diagram shows how to wire a GLR10, using a 2002 Defender HFS switch (which has been modified to provide a positive pulse to initiate the GLR10) - You will need to change the wiring to your Britax switch, so that it switches a live to pin 1 of the GLR10 .

Econoseal connectors are not bad at their job and very good value for money, compared to some of the more exotic connectors by Sumitomo, Yazaki, FCI, Delphi, etc... As Boris has said, use the correct coloured seal for the cable size that you're using. Also, the seal should be crimped (using an 'O' crimp) into the terminal, so that it is retained - Some instructions on the internet, show the seal being slid over the terminal after it's been crimped. Although this will work, it's not the correct way of doing it, and the seal could work loose. Also as Boris has said, you can make quite acceptable crimps using a cheap pressed metal crimping tool for uninsulated terminals, such as the TT70 from Polevolt, or the D1 from VWP. Although, if you're using lots of Econoseal connectors, then the TT351 ratcheting crimping tool from Polevolt is a good investment, as it will crimp the conductor and seal in one operation - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_TT351.html This is a Durite tool, which others also sell, but Polevolt was the best price that I found for it. .

Econoseal connectors are rated for 10 Amps per contact and will accomodate up to 2.0mm2 cable (for 2.0mm2 cable, you would have to use the Yellow wire seal, instead of the more common Green one). Polevolt's prices are good, they also sell the Yellow seal - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html Up to Td5 Defenders, the main beam and dipped beam circuits have been on 2.0mm2 cable, from 2007 onwards, these have been in 1.5mm2 cable. The TD5 and Puma wing harnesses connect to the vehicle's main harness, using sealed 090 connectors, these use a 2.3mm wide terminal, compared to the Econoseal's 1.8mm (070) wide terminal. There are suppliers for these 090 connectors (I also have some of them), but these are supplied with terminals for 1.5mm2 cable, nobody stocks the 2.0mm2 terminals. You could use the Econoseal 250 series connectors, these have a 6.3mm wide terminal and are rated for 19A per contact. Simtek sell the 8-way male and female connectors - http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/250_series_male_8_way_connector/ http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/250_series_female_8_way_connector/ However, they only supply them with terminals and seals for 0.5 - 1.5mm2 cable (which they don't mention) Although I don't have the 8-way housings, I do have the terminals and seals for 2.0 - 3.0mm2 cable, as well as the body clip for the male connector (so that it can be clipped to a panel) .

On TD5 (post 2002) and Puma Defenders (up to 2011MY), it's fed from F2 (20A) in the under-seat fuse box. It runs in 3.0mm2 Purple cable from F2 to the 9-way towing electrics pickup connector (C0929) The live feed to C1692 is spliced off of this cable, in 2.5mm2 Purple cable. The earth from C1692 is run in 4.0mm2 cable, back into the loom, where it runs back with other earths to earth point C0557 (C0565 on TD5 110s) .