PaulMc

I made reference to the VAG number in my eBay listing. There's another ebay seller, selling the connector housings individually, without terminals - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170790428298 He works out a bit cheaper than the VAG dealer. You can use standard Junior Power Timer female terminals in them... But, the ones that most sellers stock are meant for the sealed connector series, so have a different shaped rear, to accomodate the wire seal, instead of crimping to the cable's insulation. http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html . Terminals from VAG 'Repair Wires' (terminals pre-crimped to Yellow cable) - 000 979 021 (0.5 mm²) (as above) 000 979 133 (1.0 mm²) 000 979 225 (2.5 mm²) Loose Terminals N 906 844 05 (1.0 mm²) N 906 845 05 (2.5 mm²) .

That's me I haven't relisted them because I only have one set left (3 connectors, in fact; so, if someone needs just one connector ), and I'm struggling to find more stocks. These are genuine AMP/Tyco connectors and terminals, exactly the same parts as found on the factory wiring harness. PM me if you're interested. .

Only 2 of the 3-ways in the connector are used. Pin 1 - Charge warning light - Brown/Yellow Pin 2 - Ignition-switched live - White/Green (Discovery II) / Green/Yellow (Defender) Pin 3 - Not used The pin numbering in the connector is - The above diagram is of the connector 'face' or front, the cables are inserted from the other side. I can supply a new connector with terminals and wire seals. If you need one, drop me a PM. .

The newer pumps use Econoseal connectors, which can be bought from Polevolt - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_ESC2F.html Don't worry about the different coloured connectors/pumps, the keyways are the same between the Black and Red versions. Or, if you don't want to crimp the terminals to your existing harness, Land Rover do a 'service' link harness for fitting newer pumps into older vehicles - AMR3849 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AMR3849 Britcar do a Britpart and Allmakes version that's a bit cheaper than Genuine (the Britpart one is pictured with a Red Econoseal connector) - Britpart (even they couldn't f*** this up, could they ) http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/188962/0/wiring_harness_washer_pump_def_rrc Allmakes http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/202019/0/wiring_harness_washer_pump_def_rrc .

The 3-way white connector on the main harness under the driver's seat (C2004), connects to (C2005) on the Link Harness, which runs to each of the rear side doors on the station wagon. There are two versions of the link harness – LR016437 – contains the wiring for the door entry switches (for courtesy interior lights/burglar alarm). LR016438 – contains the wiring for the door entry switches and remote central locking. (LR016438 pictured) .

I've not been on here for a while and have only just seen this thread. The OP's connector is a Delphi Weather-Pack connector. Depending on the terminals and wire seals used, they can accomodate up to 3.0mm2 cable, and are rated for up to 20 Amps. You can get some of the range from Simtek - http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/index.php/automotive_connectors/delphi_connectors/?k=:12:359918: .

F.H.Brundle - http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/groups/02__Expanded_Metal .

Hello Phil, As Ralph has said, if you don't want to cut the connector off of your main harness, I can supply a male connector to mate with the heater connector. This would leave you the option of easily fitting a TD5 heater unit at a later date. Paul.

The Window Motor Connector is the Grey Connector, it's made by FCI - Here's a couple of pics of the connector on a front door loom that I have - . Its terminals are similar to the TE (AMP) Junior Power Timer terminals. I don't have this connector and can't find anyone willing to sell less than 1500 pieces (not including terminals and wire seals) It's probably easier to buy the door harnesses from Land Rover, they're not that expensive. LR016314 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, PASSENGER (& DRIVER), WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, LESS DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT - £12.01 (+ £2.40 VAT in EU) LR016315 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, DRIVER, WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, WITH DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT - £24.72 (+ £4.94 VAT in EU) LR016316 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, PASSENGER, WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, WITH DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT - £24.72 (+ £4.94 VAT in EU) .

Here you are - .

On the RH side of the chassis behind the rear wheel - .

Les, I've been looking for a hand crimper to do an "F" crimp on terminals on 10mm2 cable, but can't find anything suitable. For that size of cable, all that I can find are either, hexagon or indent crimpers, which are fine for tube terminals, but no good for open-barrel terminals. I'm still looking and, if I find anything suitable, I'll post the details here. .

For up to 6.0mm2 cable, one of these does an excellent crimp - http://www.polevolt....info_TT350.html It's the one I'm using in my post here - http://forums.lr4x4....056#entry686080 .

Those particular splice crimps (good for a total CSA of 1.5 - 2.0mm2), I get from a trade supplier, in reels - I can sell them to anyone who wants some, for 10p each. You can improvise and make your own from the open-barrel of a non-insulated crimp terminal, this one is for 6.0mm2 cable - Just snip-off the connector, leaving the conductor open barrel crimp. Depending on what you're splicing, it can sometimes be useful to leave the insulation support on it - This is the above improvised splice crimp, being used to spur 1.5mm2 cable from 3.0mm2 cable - Stripped with crimp in place - Crimping - Crimped - .

Good advice from Jon I wire them like this - The above diagram doesn't show it but, of course, the '+12V' is from a fused supply Also, the wire gauge shown is for 55W halogen lights, the gauge could be down-sized for LEDs, but not too small, as you don't want a voltage drop. I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates - . . . . . . Using a male/female connector at the gutter, so that the lightbar can be removed, is a good idea. For your purposes, a 'standard' 070 (1.8mm) Econoseal connector is more than adequate - http://www.polevolt....Connectors.html But, for halogen lights, I use the Econoseal 187 (4.8mm) Series, which will accomodate 3.0mm² cable, and has a nominal current rating of 25 Amps - . . . .

Have a look at these threads - http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=69458 http://www.defender2.../topic7679.html http://www.defender2...6207.html#96207 Further to the information in the above threads, I can now supply the proper connectors to mate with the heated seats, along with the body clip to mount the connector to the seatbox - . . . .

You can just join together (solder and heat-shrink sleeve) all the wires for each circuit. What year is your Defender? Be careful - because, on C0287 on 1999-2001 TD5s, not all the wires going into the sub-circuit on cavities 11 to 14 are the same colour (Purple and Purple/Brown). If you want to replace the burnt header, I can supply a replacement new Blue 20-way header and terminals - I also have them in - Black, Green, Grey, Orange and Yellow - but, these all have different numbers and sizes of sub-circuits. .

Replacement connectors can be fiited to the wiring loom. I think that the Discovery-1 tail lights use a 2-way Econoseal connector (same as Defender 'NAS' lamps) but, to be sure, can you post a picture of the dodgy connector. .

Les, The connections stay in the bulkhead, the convoluted grommet that goes between the bulkhead and the doors, is on the door harness. This is the driver's door harness (LR016315) - I've got a brand new LR016315 harness in a box under my desk, if you want bigger clearer pictures of the grommet and/or connectors. .

You'll not find anyone selling those awful moulded rubber/bullet connectors separately because, as you said earlier, they're moulded around the bullet/cable in production.. If you want to retain that connector on your vehicle's loom and use a later Defender column switch then, as you've already said, you will need an adaptor loom. The easiest way to do this would be to utilise the rubber/bullet connector from an old series/early Defender column switch, cut off of the switch with sufficient cable lengths to crimp on the later type of 4-way female connector, to mate with the newer type of switch. I can supply the 4-way female connector and terminals. .

Extreme still sell them - http://www.extreme4x...MPER_STEPS.html I believe that they're actually made by Safari-Equip - http://www.safari-eq...ndex.php?page=5 .

You could use a Header Connector to splice multiple wires down to one. The 20-way Sumitomo headers (as used all over Land Rovers), can have several sub-circuits in them, depending on their colour - BLACK Sub-divided into five circuits - BLUE Sub-divided into four circuits - GREEN Sub-divided into four circuits - GREY Sub-divided into three circuits - ORANGE Sub-divided into six circuits - YELLOW Sub-divided into five circuits - .

1. Yes it will - but, you'll have to trim-off the moulded keyway at the back of the switch body (top right in the picture above). 2. You can use the cap off of the switch blank, but you will need to drill a 2.5mm hole for the tell-tale warning light's 'lense' Have a look at this - http://www.lro.com/f...=385823#p385823 The switch caps are made from translucent white plastic, which has been sprayed black or Ash Grey, with the symbol masked-out, so that when back-lit, the symbol illuminates. If you're good with a Dremel, you can engrave your own symbol in the blank, like the home-made cruise control switch, here - http://www.lro.com/f...hp?f=18&t=58151 Or you could use a stick-on symbol, like these from VWP, or MUDSTUFF - The MUDSTUFF symbols are clear on black, so if you polished away a small area of the paint finish on the blank switch cap (under where the symbol is going to be stuck), the symbol will illuminate with the dash lights. Although they haven't pictured the sheet, MUDSTUFF also do a White on Clear sheet, which could be used on a blank switch cap , without any polishing away of it's paint finish. Of course, this wouldn't illuminate with the dash lights. .

The rear foglamp switch won't work. It's a momentary (non-latching) switch, that switches to earth. The rear fog lamps are switched by an ECU that detects this momentary path to earth and then switches on the rear fog lamps (only if the headlamps are also 'on'). The switch that you're looking for is the Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch - YUF500150LNF This is a latching live-switching switch, which costs around a fiver http://www.rimmerbro...-i-YUF500150LNF £4.17 ex VAT (£5.00 inc VAT) It uses the Black 5-way switch connector, which I sell on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.u...nnectors/m.html It should be wired, as follows - Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply Pin 2 - Live from dash illumination Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth) Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory Pin 5 - Earth You can swap the 'Heated Seat' switch cap for one from another switch, including the rear fog lamps switch. .

I found these on t'interweb a while ago, might be of interest - . . . . . . . Not Harvey Frost, but still interesting - . .