moose

you can.... but best not to do this on a high traction surface unless your into drifting

I didnt put mine back on after the doing the sills over a year ago now, in fact i think i might even have sold them at a newbury sortout

not tried these guys yet, but will probably try them for their "Superseal Connectors" http://www.thewiringproject.co.uk paul

very nice.. and it would probably fit a supperwinch ep9 as well... did you make you own gears? would love to see it with the end plate off.

oh dear there goes the hope of getting it cheap... Its a 8200 the missing link between the "Belleview" and the "warn 8274" here is mine... They are gear a bit higher than a standard 8274, have a stronger main shaft (no under cut like the standard 8274), more bearings and with a bow2 on 24v its quite a beast.... but be careful you can not get spares, 8274 bits (apart from the motor drive gear) will not fit it so if you brake some thing you will have the make your self. so you wouldn't want it

The other thing to think about its that with a motor over drum winch (like an 8274) is that they can hold more rope and you dont have to worry about it bunching up and braking the tie bars. But my view is a "normal" 8274 under heavy load (ie 2 tonne truck through a bog) will be about as fast as a tds under the same heavy load, and now days with an extra big drum on a tds you can hold the same amount of rope as a standard 8274...

yep will be the same but why not just get a 24 spline flange, FRC3002 and from looking at the kam website its 22 quid would save a bit of time... paul

if by standard you mean the aircon ones on front? then i would probably say "no" not up to the job as esp in the summer. I guess landrover put them on the front to aid the main viscous unit not to take over from it...

its an idea as the wire does look a little brittle.. I quess the only way to test if its the alternator would be to steal another one of someone for 5 mins... If turns out not to be the alternator... whats between that wire on the back alternator and the counter? guess no fuses etc.. to check?

morning all, last week my alternator on my 300tdi died. not opened it up yet but it must have got very hot as there are drips of molten solder round the casing. So i got a new one, it looks like the old one was a 85 amp one but i got a "A127/100 AMP" and fitted it. It seems to be working fine, charging the battery and the dash battery light goes out after the engine is started as normal. But i have no reading on the rev counter? all the terminals are connected correctly, and the rev counter feed is on the "W" spade connector. So any ideas as to what is happening? it there a way to test the "W" feed from the alternator? if i put a multi meter on it what should i be looking for? thanks for any input Paul

yes you would have to force the chassis across as that is what the rod does it opposes the force of the drag link (front bar of the steering) so u can steer and not just move the front axles sideways how did find the axle not in line ?

Afternoon all, the alternator on my disco died yesterday, as the batteries not charging and the rev counter has stop in fact it is as tho i have unplugged the alternator, I was Luckily i managed to make it back from the north lands before it got too dark On the parts shelf in the shed i have a P38 2.5tdi 105 AMP alternator which was going to be a winch alternator for the comp truck. But will this work on my 300 disco? not had chance to look to see if it fits in the gap yet.. but the wiring is different as the back of this alternator looks like this:- there are only 2 terminals B+ (which i guess is the main feed) and D+ where as on the 300 tdi there are three main feed, indicator and rev counter ? I am rubbish at sparky stuff so any help as to how to wire it up.. or if it will even fit/work thanks for any input Paul

hmmm you can do the job (on a 200tdi) with out having to take the fan off just unbolt the water pump with it still on... have done this lots times when i couldn't get the fan to un-screw.. simples

err yes having had one in our convoy to Romania in the summer, land rovers dont come closed to these trucks for carrying and towing stuff. In 30+ deg heat towing 3 tonnes these cruisers seem perfectly at home where you are flogging a 300tdi disco to death... even worse when the boys in the cruiser have aircon and you dont but an N reg disco is a few hundred quid where as a good N reg 80 series landcruiser 4-5K.... I will have to stick to the disco for the time being any back on topic... I watch both this one and the one last week and both times its seemed that "the trip" was really the first time that both family's has been in/on there chosen mode of transport.

from what Hamish is describing i would say its the turbo seals... as it sound like I have the same(ish) symptoms, mpg seems ok on mine and my erg is blanked off. After redoing the head gasket (after some enthusiastic towing) the other weekend i found the normal amount of oil after the breather input... but after the turbo there was enough oil to drip out of the inlet pip to the intercooler.. it smokes nice and blue first thing in the morning because every thing is cold and also some times on overrun.. as you can get rebuild kits for these turbos (round 60 quid search Google for part number of the kit "Garrett 709143-0001") i was going to give it a good with a spare turbo. hope this helps paul

just to add to this I ran with the +5 with non-remote reservoir's in the 09 TAT and two did fail (seals went so the oil and gas leaked) probably due to my springs being to soft... But this year i upped my spring rates, switch to the remote reservoir ones and they were prefect even held together (ie did not bend) when my A frame ball joint parted from the axle on one section. if doing non-speed challenges i would have stuck with the standard +5's paul

Have spliced two ends of a rope together lots of times and its holds fine.... but if its gone once because its old and shag'ed, its usually not to long before it snaps again some where else, and most likely when you least want it too. if the rope as whole is in good nick then a splice in the middle will not matter. My current center rope has two end-to-end splices in it and its been holding fine... it got the breaks when it was a front rope i use this method http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177344 paul

Is this the same engine 4 cly 2.5 vm maunal

How very dare you... just cos my locals like the pup in shameless and yours is like the one on the moors in American warewolf in London ok i will quit moaning and move the front switches round not all that bothered, but every disco i have been in the windows seen to work in a different way.. well on to more important things like hot gluing metal back into the body

I saw some on a friends 100" the other day (he had used spacers), they look very nice but will not "stick" out an further than say the alloys on your disco will/do...

morning all, All the disco's i have had the window switches all ways seen to work differently to how you would think they would. ie you press the top of the rocker button to lower and not the bottom. with my current truck (96 300tdi poverty spec) the rear windows haven't work since i obtained it, so I replaced the window ecu due to the dry joint solder problem. Now the rear windows work but the button operation is different to the front windows (ie you press the bottom of the rocker to lower the window). The switches are keyed with the plug so it not like i have put the plug on upside down. SO is it normal for the front window switches to operate in a different direction to the rear? guess quickest solution this would be just turn the switch upside down

I thought it was called a spool. I have seen people weld normal rover axles on play-day disco's etc... they carry a spare drive flange with no half shaft attached so when they have finished playing for the day they pop out a drive shaft and pop in the spare flange so they don't lose all there axle oil or scrub tyres on the way home... not sure you have to go quite to the lengths of the "orb of traction" tho edited to add a link on how to do it correctly clicky from pirate4x4

A quick update as stll driving across europe and with data charges and all that... wow this years tat, there were truck breakages, problems with our nav, monster road books, and some problems with event its self I think we came 18th out of the 26th starters, not a mega result, but i guess a result and some fun was had along the way a few images.. will add try and add some more when back in the uk.

yep it is and he's not on this forum. It's a very well thought out truck, he was going every where i was but he had the whole family in the car including two dogs the spec (i think is) 3" body lift kam lockers in both axles rear and front winch 35" simex its still running air bags (which does make it interesting for side slopes) and its a V8 The nice thing is its not a show truck and hes not afraid to use it, by the end of Sunday I think he had managed to end the life of one CV and a half shaft on some rocks

Nice images David, Like the way you have managed to catch only marshals (inc me) winching and not a winch blanket to be seen summary of the weekend:- The weather was great, to many mozzy bites from the campsite, and way too much rock dust. Paul