elbekko

Good question. They seem to swing together on a LHD vehicle, and against each other on a RHD vehicle. RAVE shows the rear chassis mounting point to be on the left side of the chassis, which would be the same as is needed in the front to not have bumpsteer. Actually somewhat surprised, as usually LR products seem to be designed for RHD. Or they were designed to cross, but I'm not sure what advantage that would bring...

Have a look on lpgforum.co.uk. If at all possible, do the install yourself, it'll be so much cleaner. I've seen some **** the "specialists" do to a vehicle...

Yes, a panhard would work just as well, but would make the axle swing in an arc. See the setup on a P38, 2 panhards and radius arms all around.

Exactly, if anything the video is useful because it shows YOU what the weak point is. The ones that want to get in already know.

Applying 12V to it seems dangerous, unless there's a voltage regulator on the line...

The RRC had a 3-speed auto (TF727) and a 4-speed auto (4HP22). Behind this first an LT230, with manual difflock, and later the Borg Warner case with a viscous coupling (automatic difflock). Sounds like you have a 4HP22 + BW.

A TD5 in a Classic would be pretty nice, but not much precedent strangely. The 300TDi is grossly underpowered for the Classic, but if you have luck it's not bad. I'd go for a V8 with LPG.

Sadly, it looks to be way more rotten than just the sills he mentions...

Vacuum operated diff lock on a BW?

That's that you're running way too rich and the excess fuel is igniting in the exhaust. This may affect your lambda readings when it happens. See what cells you're in when it happens and tone them down a bit yourself.

Every V8 I know runs NGK BPR6ES, which are resistor plugs.

That's strange, it isn't easy to get into a P38...

That looks fun

The transfer box should be pretty easy to make a controller for, everything is clearly described in RAVE. Plus, I think the ECU can just be reused without much fuss, it doesn't do all that much.

The aim of the Camel Trophy was also to do it with stockish vehicles, fitting 37s under a Disco won't highlight the performance of a stock Disco. I'm sure much of their journey would've been a lot easier with bigger tyres. I'd definitely say bigger = better, but only if you've reached the limit of what you can do with smaller tyres. And to the person who said small, thin tyres are better in the mud: only if the mud isn't deep enough to sink down into it.

Only way I could think of visualising it clearly was with 3D modelling, so here's a VERY crude Solidworks model of how I understand it.

Your last description is pretty clear Bill I'd put it into a drawing if I could think of how to put it into a drawing...

265/75R16 BFG ATs

Some small trimming based on (what it thinks is) rich/lean. Not as detailed as the wideband, obviously, but more than good enough for basic trimming.

And good chance you'll find one in Poland, LPG everywhere so lots of petrol cars.

It is very awesome. He also has a build thread: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/1-4-scale-v8-first-project-13548/

Nice!

Eh, mine wakes up a bit above 4k

Looks pretty handy. I have this app on my phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.max.KnotsGuide

If you're going through that much trouble, might as well fit it properly Hat, coat, door... But yes, that should probably work, although viewing and analysing a log is only possible if you have a fuel table to compare against IIRC.