Mo Murphy

Jeff, it's all quite straightforward 👍 The dash harness is the spine of the vehicles electrical system, get a TD5 rear harness and wing harnesses for full plug and play. You will need a 300tdi temp sender and an adapter for your 200tdi. When testing your built up dash, a single power supply to the satellite fuse box will operate everything on the bulkhead. HTH Mo

No rants or name calling there that I can see, Stephen. I can't see the problem with my original post that you've quoted, we've all seen unintelligent use of hi-lift Jacks first hand and on YouTube. I'm quite happy to continue to discuss without churlishness or resorting to calling of names. Both of which are actions that, perhaps, should require moderator response. Mo

I haven't ranted or called you names ! Perhaps you're confused ? Mo

The glass might be stopping if a glass channel screw has started working its way out. Mo

@missingsid Uh oh, the health and safety police are back ! I'll be needing an IVA next ... 🤣 Firstly it can't fall over because you're maintaining 4 points of contact on the ground, 3 wheels and an axle end on a jack unlike the extremely dangerous practice of casting a vehicle from ruts where you're lifting the 2 wheels on one axle off the ground ! I always use a spade when I'm stuck in deep ruts and drive out 🤔 Secondly if you don't understand why you would secure the handle of a hi-lift jack when extended with a load on it then you're not really qualified to lecture me on safe practice 👍😁 Have great day Mo

Sell it 😈 Mo

Which is probably why you don't do it ! I, on the other hand have never had a problem with it. I use a jack adapter in the crossmember or front hole and a bottle jack under the axle, remove one wheel and lower the axle, jack up crossmember, *SECURE THE HANDLE*, remove the now free spring and insert replacement, lower the hi-lift, jack the axle back up, refit wheel. Repeat. Easy and saves all the palaver listed in other posts and no lying on the ground under the vehicle removing Radius arm bolts ! Works for me but can't say for other people as it's dependent on your own level of intelligence. It's the only practical use for that big lump of useless cast iron that I've ever found. HTH and clarifies Mo

I usually Jack the chassis with the hi-lift and lower the axle on a bottle jack to get enough room to change springs. Spring compressors are very fiddly and awkward to use so I avoid them. Mo

Fil, I would drive it for a week, I think you'll find the feel of the brakes will improve as the pads bed in. HTH Mo

Chassis rust from the inside out Mick, so before planning the outside get inside the chassis done. Clean inside the rails with a jet wash and drain cleaning attachment and get something inside to prevent further corrosion. Having said that, if it hasn't been replaced it probably is already pretty far gone at 30 years old. HTH Mo

I have the Glencoyne ones on my engine and gearbox and I've found them to be rather good. Mo

I don't know what either of those are 🤔 but I think I could be interested 😛 Mo

Rivets are nothing a drill can't sort out 👍 Mo

… the thermostat housings are different between the 2 and IIRC the discovery thermostat housing fouls the Defender timing case. HTH Mo

The heads are the same. Mo

I like Land Rovers not EVs. 😁👍 Mo

Like L19MUD, I use a Radius arm washer and the vice. Simples and cheap 👍 Mo

Tick tock, 9 years ... Mo

Oh shiny 👍 Mo

Deep pockets for the long distance Fuel bills ! 😉 Mo

That's because you are the bling antichrist Jeff 😁 Mo

But don't put TFR on your shiny shiny (look at how fabulously wealthy I am) bling bling anodised hinges and windscreen blocks as the deteriorated finish will make you shed a tear. Mo

Certainly no loctite needed for coil inserts but glad you've got it sorted 👍 You've gained a valuable addition to your toolbox and skillset 🙂 Mo

Mo

I just cut a slot in the matting. HTH Mo