DaveSIIA

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Take a sample panel, with the paint you are trying to match, to a decent autopaint specialist and ask f they could scan it. Their computer should be able to come up with the closest match RAL colour. I've just done this with a valve amplifier that I've refurbished and the outcome was a match to the original which will take a lot of study to spot any difference.

The low gear is common to both standard and Ashcroft high ratio transfer boxes. The choice is with the user as to whether to reuse a potentially worn low gear in mesh with the new intermediate gear and possibly suffer higher noise levels.

An interesting read. Have saved for reference. Thanks.

My 99 Td5 CDL had the same problem. Turned out to be moisture in the switches in the passenger door actuator sending random signals to the controller. Strip & clean of the actuator solved the problem.

Can you back-probe the connector and check for 12V while connected? Could be a poor connection somewhere in the intermittent relay / supply.

From memory, 1 - 2 synchro rings of a R380 will require a full strip down & rebuild as they are on the mainshaft just forward of the centre plate. 3 - 4 are accessible at the front end with just the input shaft removed. 5th requires removal of the rear housing, etc. TBH, if in that far then a full overhaul is the way to go.

Sorry, I stand corrected about the rivets. The pressed vent is more significant. It has been a while since I looked very closely at the detail inside a Series rim. The photo from Gazzar would suggest that any Series / Defender rim with a deep well is going to foul. I would have to examine the Wolf rims on my 110 to see whether they share the same well dimensions. Otherwise, after-market or spacers would be the only way to clear the calipers.

The rivets on a Series rim protrude on the inside face of the wheel well and may foul the caliper. Tubeless rims are generally welded, giving ~1/8" extra radial clearance.

I think you will find that the clunk comes from the way that the diff lock is implemented on the LT230. The diff lock comprises a collar that sits over a set of teeth on the front output shaft and slides across to splines on the front end of the centre diff housing. The teeth on the front output shaft are quite coarse - look like every alternate tooth has been missed out. This allows a lot of backlash between the collar and the front output shaft. Combine this with any backlash in the centre diff and you have the significant clunk. Replacing the rear propshaft won't alter this. In real terms, how much of a problem is this permanent four wheel drive set up when on the road? I understand the velocity differences when running Hooke's Joints & CV Joints at an angle, but for road driving and under power the wheels spend most of their time at or near straight ahead so the angles at the joints are small.

Sorted. Thank you.

Thanks for the guidance. Will continue the soaking in penetrating fluid and then try a more substantial pull on the bars.

Having difficulty opening the top tailgate on a 1992 RRC (JA VIN) as the latches appear to have seized / rusted as the release button moves but doesn't press in very far. Do the actuating rods to either side of the lock mechanism push / pull or do they rotate around their axis to operate the latches? Trying not to damage the frame as it is aluminium, so trying to work out what I can do from inside the boot. Thanks

Did this mod my Defender many years ago. Easy to pack the joint with grease and top up at each service. Joints last a lot longer as they don't dry out. The rubber boots fail occasionally, but are easily replaced.

I also suspect that body filler may crack if sandwiched between the two skins. Could you drill out the spot welds to remove the original panel and plug weld the new to reattach? Alternatively, a good quality panel adhesive would do the job, and not leave a row of weld marks or a double skin to trap moisture. An insurance body shop had to replace an accident damaged rear wing panel on my four year old Defender 110 CSW. They drilled out the spot welds and just used pop rivets to nail it back together (the heads of which didn't fall anywhere near a straight line). I queried this with my insurers and their body shop as being unsightly on a relatively new vehicle, even putting up calculations and manufacturers data to show that correctly applied Sikaflex panel adhesive is stronger in both peel and shear than the pop rivets - fell on deaf ears as it wasn't a Thatcham approved repair method!

Could be easier to change the valve block for one from a non-EH box i.e. RRC / Disco 1. No electronics to worry about.

Always used etch primer on alloy and results have been successful, even after extended exposure to UK weather. I painted my IIA in 1985 and not had any problems since with paint flaking off the alloy base. High build primer has adhered well to the etch. The red colour coat has been over painted a few years back and could probably do with a refresh. No experience with epoxy primer on alloy, so can't comment. As highlighted above, quality of preparation is the key.

This might help identify which parts are missing. ley_cap.pdf

I had one a turbocharged wastegated one in a RRC. Revs to 4000rpm and much more responsive than a 200Tdi. Trouble is that it is quite a bulky / heavy motor, and the exhaust is on the (UK) driver's side so has to be tucked out of the way of the propshaft. These days, my money would go on a 200 / 300Tdi installation as being much more straight forward, whilst parts are more readily available. Info from Watson & Turner (engine installer in the 90's) attached. Watson_Turner_Mazda.pdf

Simple check for wheel bearings vs swivel bearings is to have someone firmly hold down the brake pedal while you check 12-6 - the brake will lock the wheel relative to the hub. If the play disappears then it is wheel bearings, else it's the swivel set up.

The sales brochure from Watson & Turner might help you. I had a turbo-wastegated version in a RRC auto and it well very well compared to a 200Tdi. Watson_Turner_Mazda.pdf

Td5 has a pressure sensor on the clutch hydraulics as part of the anti-stall logic in the ECU. It senses the reduction in pressure as you lift the clutch through the bite point and compensates the fuel load accordingly. I used to find it quite useful for moving off on greasy / slippery surfaces (wet grass or ice, etc).

I used to run a Td5 110 CSW with a Jeremy Fearn Stage 2 tune (big intercooler, remap, etc) and that returned 26mpg typically (although I didn't always drive it with the lightest of right feet!). It's predecessor, a 300Tdi 110 CSW, generally returned 28mpg but wasn't anywhere near as quick. Both responded well to raised transfer box gearing, pulling comfortably with 1.2:1 LT230 and Borg Warner transfer boxes respectively. These greatly improved motorway cruising without costing too much flexibility for towing ~3 tonnes.

Brake pedal needing a second bite could be a symptom of a wheel bearing being slightly out of adjustment.

Good news that you have found the root cause and can fix it. Perhaps not clear from my post, but that is the part I was referring to. Unfortunately, I didn't have any photo's to hand and it's probably 10 years since last experiencing this failure. This wouldn't impact on the transfer box selecting high range, but the problem may be solved once you have truly selected neutral on the main box.