Escape

I have to agree a manual pump is probably a better choice for the kayak. As for electric ones, we're using this one from Vevor, very similar to the big T-max and does a good job. Last Saturday it was used to inflate all tyres on 7 barnfind cars, running from a spare battery. Not big tyres (155R13 and 185R13) or high pressures, but it did make it an easy job. And it cope's just as well with the tyres on the Rangie or those on the car trailer that need 6bar.

I'd start by making sure the fan isn't snagging and everything is turning freely as mentioned above. Even with a working viscous, a stuck fan will put a lot of strain on the water pump, and could be the cause of both the previous failure and the slipping belt.

I'll stick my neck out, I think the long bonnet Defender does have some charm. Must be room for a Jag V12, right? Could make for a great tow car! 😄 On another note, I 'might' have acquired a couple of Matra Bagheeras... One is in very poor shape, crash damage to the front end and of course so rusty it left a layer on the trailer after unloading. But how hard can it be to mate the plastic body to the chassis of an equally rusty Disco or such? 🙃

Maybe we're looking at the wrong component. From your checks and rereading the original post, it seems the box is shifting OK, just not when full throttle is applied. This could be a stuck wastegate with the ECU cutting fuel when boost rises under full throttle. How does the car behave if you lock the box in say 2nd and then floor it?

Start with the easiest: is the oil level correct? Remember you need to check cold, with engine running and after cycling through the gears.

Are those related to the Mini Moke?

I think @Arjan is planning a trip from France to UK to collect some stuff. Not sure if he's taking a trailer and if that would be empty on the way up, but you could ask. Unless you can find a truck with a part load, I fear most will charge for the empty return, so you'll pay for an additional ferry crossing anyway. And that will get expensive...

That reminds me we still need to have a look at the belts on that fancy V8 sitting in the corner...

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L7.L7G.L7G01.L7G01110/brand/land-rover/ 😉 There's 2 separate diagrams for the old and new style manifold.

I'm not sure the external thermostat like on the P38 and D2 comes in different temp ratings. For the P38 there is only one partnumber for GEMS or Bosch. The one in the D2 is rated for the same temperatures (both for V8 and TD5), but only has 3 connections (1 bottom and 2 top) instead of 4 (1 bottom and 3 top) as on the Range. That is because the heather return is piped directly into the feed hose and not via the thermostat. If you plan to shut the heater off completely, I don't think it really matters if it is connected to the front or rear. If there is a permanent flow through the heater, like on modern systems, it might be better to leave it on the rear to ensure a good flow throughout the heads and manifold. And yes, I know the later V8s in fact don't have that rear connection so it shouldn't matter...

Just put the multimeter across the battery terminal and measure, first with engine off, then engine running. The second reading should obviously be higher. An auto shop that does a test and claims something is not as it should without giving a more detailed explanation (when asked for) would not get a vote of confidence from me. So better to do it yourself! A known cause of parasitic drain is the resistor pack for the interior fan, as those have a permanent feed. Unless your measurements tell otherwise, the alternator is probably fine but the battery is taking a beating because of the drain. The charger should take care of that, though it's not a perfect solution in the long run obviously.

Good that you got it sorted, maybe a bad connection in the plug? Strange that the PayPal claim didn't lead to a solution. They usually side with the buyer. Did you get any response at all, either from PayPal or the vendor? For €132 I'd pursue the matter a bit further.

It all depends at how bad the alternator is doing it's job and what it wrong with it. If it's not delivering it's full output, that's not a big problem, especially if you keep the battery topped up. Mind you, the Range Rover has a big battery so you need a decent charger to be able to actually charge it rather than maintain it. If on the other hand the voltage regulator in the alternator is failing, this can cause voltage spikes and play havoc with the elektrickery in the car. I take it you don't get the charge warning light on the dash? You really need to take some measurements, like voltage delivered to the battery with engine running. If that's between 13V and 15V, you should be fine using it like that. If you do need/want to replace, look around for places that rebuild alternators. Typically $100-$200 and better quality than a cheap replacement.

Heavy iron kit does sound like something from the 70s. So no doubt miles ahead of anything built these days. 🙂 To be fair, most these days just want cheap and/or flashy, not quality. And I can't imagine that one being cheap. Nice to see they actually list the cfm under load as well.

That is some beast! I'd happily sell my children for it, but I don't have any (that I know of)...

That would be STC4187. The earlier alu manifolds have flat gaskets, the later plastic ones (MY 98 on) use these O-rings. For reference, the easiest way to find part numbers is https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/classic-land-rover-parts/ In this case, I did need to look a bit further as there are 2 types of O-ring and it wasn't clear from the exploded view which one goes where. Filip

Depending on the setting in the BeCM, the windows will still have power for 30 sec or so after removing the key. As for the radio, that could be wired the wrong way. If the key is turned to off, everything should be off, regardless if the key is in the barrel or not. For the keyfob, did you synchronise it after the rebuild? Synchronising is by turning the key in the driver's door while pushing the button. Was the fob rebuild by somebody who knows what he's doing, or just a generic fob repair? If the latter, little chance of ever getting it to work, the internals are unlike most fobs. If it was a specialist, he should be happy to provide assistance to get it working.

Yes, the Bosch injectors can be fitted to the older manifold. Quentin is running the MS 4.6 in his Classic like that. He did fit the later fuel pump as well to make sure there is sufficient fuel pressure (3.5 bar instead of 2.5 bar IIRC). And some modifications to the fuel rail were needed.

Yep, it's usually the hazard switch. Which is why wiggling it worked in the past. Now with both indicators and hazards failing, there isn't really any other explanation. Feed is different (ignition for indicators, permanent for hazards) but both pass through the hazard switch. I had a similar problem in my Lotus last year. It was on the last day or a trip in UK, so I just drove it home pretending it was a BMW or Oodi and then fixed it. 🙂

Glad you got it sorted Paul! Would be interesting to open up the ECU and check for obvious damage. Like the transistors in the (early) transfer box ECU that are known to overheat. Mike beat me to it, that is indeed the document I was referring to. 😉 Filip

As above, I wouldn't go for one of the ATV winches. A Jimny is considerably heavier, so they'll struggle and could even fail when you really need them. I do use one (4000lb IIRC) on my trailer. That does the job on single line pull for most cars, but I feel more comfortable doubling up with a snatch block when loading a Range Rover or similar. And that's rolling vehicles on a hard(ish) surface and less than 15° slope. A lot of the cheaper ones (like mine) have a permanent magnet motor, which is no match for the series wound motors on a proper recovery winch. A 6000lb version should suffice, but there is not as much choice. @elbekko was referring to this one: https://www.vevor.nl/elektrische-lier-c_11304/6000lbs-2721kg-12v-recovery-electric-lier-truck-trailer-touw-afstandsbediening-p_010643984034 One more thing to add, if given the choice I would go for a 6000 instead of an 8000 with the same motor (or 9500 vs 13000 for full size ones). The difference being in the gearing, the lighter one will be faster and have a bit more rope on the drum as well. You can always use a snatch block if you really need the extra power, the higher speed and longer rope will be an advantage in all other cases. Filip

Even if the exhaust valve remains open there is a NRV that should ensure pressure still gets into the system. If the diaphragm valve is leaking, you will lose pressure through the exhaust silencer, that is something to check. I agree with @elbekko it's unlikely that the compressor is causing the faults, more like the ECU wont engage the compressor because it sees too many faults. A good way to test the system with diagnostics is to connect a mains compressor (or a decent 12V one) to the top line going into the dryer. That will keep the tank topped up so you have pressure available when trying the valves. Just remember to disconnect the compressor if you want to deflate, as exhaust air goes through the same line. Do you have the EAS information document? It gives more details than Raven useful for troubleshooting. Good luck!

Good that you've found the wire that caused the fuse to blow! As for the faults, that's a pretty comprehensive list. Which could actually be a good thing. I'd say some connection error caused them, so start by clearing and see which (if any) return. It could even be the kicker caused the errors when it was used with the brown wire (which is the permanent 12V feed) lose. The ECU's rarely fail, but if you need one I have several on the shelve and could post next week when I'm in UK.

I've used the 38mm ones to bridge a ditch to be able to 'escape' with my Defender when they had just poured the concrete in front of our house years ago. They seemed to cope just fine. When loading the trailer, we're using the full 1.5m of length of the 50mm boards, the 38mm ones are only 1.2m (I think), so the bending forces are lower. The sides of a ditch or similar also have a bit more give than concrete and the trailer, makes it all a bit easier on the boards.

I'm using a pair of 50mm boards as loading ramps for the car trailer. Lighter than the steel alternatives and a lot cheaper, but they have suffered when loading the skidsteer.