Escape

To add, you want a small clearance between pushrod and servo internals, so the brakes don't bind as things warm up. So you need to measure how far the pushrod sticks out of the mounting flange and how deep the receiver in the booster sits. Adjust till you have about 0.5mm clearance.

@landroversforever I didn't notice the brand, could very well be Quick Jacks, very similar to what google showed me. 😉 @JohnnoK on a closed trailer you would need the roof to raise as well for clearance. And the sides would have to open completely, to avoid access issues. A closed trailer always seems so confined to me, even the ones with big doors or a completely lifting cover. Fold-up sides to make an awning would be a win/win though. That would add weight and complexity of course. I typically prefer to add lightness and simplify. 🙂

With the injectors properly coded and clearance checked, you will have already eliminated to most likely causes I think. Let's hope it's as simple as that!

It wont fit, the P38 is wider, longer and curved differently. And it's welded on, not bolted. While anything is possible, it would no doubt take a HUGE amount of work to get it to fit properly.

Would be very useful for an amateur race team or such. Easy to change tyres, work on brakes and suspension etc. The scissor lift should be fine and probably more useful than a 4 poster. But as above I'd want a good way to set the trailer stable and level, not rely on suspension or even tyres, ideally an hydraulic support on each corner or on the base of the lift. In Silverstone I saw a very low, movable scissor lift that was slid under the racer from both sides after it parked up in the paddock. Powered from an external hydraulic pump. Seemed very easy to use and ideal for different circumstances, just needs a reasonably level surface. No doubt expensive though...

I got to have a look at and inside last weekend. It does look good! Very very functional, and cosy at the same time. Something to be proud of. 😉

As above, most likely suspect is the thermal switch in the compressor. The thin black/purple wire on the compressor connector should have continuity to the ground (i.e. the thick black wire in the same connector). If it doesn't, the switch has failed. They can be replaced (new ones are available to solder in) or bridged. Simply ground the BP wire and see if the compressor runs as a first test. It's unlikely to be the ECU, unless there is a fault, which should be indicated on the dash. Pressure switches are often replaced, but rarely the cause.

Depending on where you're measuring, it is very possible that you are measuring continuity to negative through some other component. With all the different circuits in parallel, you always need to make sure you isolate what you are trying to measure. To test the ignition switch for example, disconnect all but the brown feed wire from it to see what gets power in which position.

We never got around to weighing it. We were very happy to get it mounted and the winch wired up the night before we left for Seven Sisters. 😉

I plan to keep the front stabiliser bar, so hope it will be doable at low speeds. I'll report back when I get to test it. 😉

Yes, exactly that. With the only dampening caused by the resistance in the airline between the bags. The L320 Range Rover and later use this to mimic a live axle off road. But it's only at low speeds and probably dependent on the terrain response setting that the valves open to link both bags. I have done similar on my P38, switchable from the dash. I made sure it is only available in low gear. It's an attempt to get more flex from the front axle and still keep the stabiliser. Not tested it yet though.

You do not want to link the bags side to side for a car that doesn't anything above a crawl. Not permanently at least. It will have little resistance to rolling, unless you add a beefy roll bar. Think of it as a tractor with a pendulum axle and no dampers!

Another vote for the panhard rod bushes. But don't forget swivel preload. If that is too low, it will put more strain on the bushes as there is less damping.

that's not an engine hoist, it's a compact pick & carry crane!

Getting the diffs out isn't too bad, though the front requires a bit more work than on the Classic. As @Bowie69 says, setting everything up correctly is not that easy, and you ideally need 2 full sets of shims. You can cut corners of course, but not without risk and with the time and money involved, better to play it safe. I am a bit surprised you feel your 4.6 P38 is over geared though. I rarely feel the need to go to 3500rpm, unless I'm towing a heavy trailer. My current one is a manual, but I've driven plenty of automatics and never noticed a problem unless the engine was past its best (worn timing chain and/or camshaft for example). In fact, I love the way the 4.6 cruises just fine at 30mph around 1500rpm, and can (gently) pick up without the need to shift down. I do have a high torque cam fitted and, more importantly, have a pretty relaxed driving style. Especially in the Range Rover. But it's not just me, I recently had a mate as a passenger, while towing his P38 on the trailer. He commented how smooth the car drove, without the need to go much above 2000rpm. Just my 2cents. 😉

As above, get the thread started, you're far more likely to get valuable technical advice than abuse. And reading about other people's projects taking ages can help as a motivation as well. 😉 Mine is going on for 4 years now, still haven't started the engine. Soon, hopefully! Also, with those few teaser pics we're all curious about the rest!

She doesn't have a sister. 🙂 But she herself is a charming young lady and very pleasant on the eyes. There was a reason I was so eager to offer her a ride on several occasions!

If you keep going to a garage that just throws parts at it (I seriously doubt it really needed a new timing chain at 130k miles!), yes, it will become a money pit. If you find a place that will only fix what needs to be done and bothers to repair rather than replace, you can run them for a fraction of the cost. Especially given your low annual mileage. Remember, Range Rovers, even the older ones, are still considered by some to be premium vehicles and therefor should command premium rates for all work, necessary or not. A mate has a 2003 and has spent on average €1200/year over the 4 years he's had it, and that's including replacing the transmission in the first year!

A few years ago I took a female colleague to a factory visit in my Esprit, which was my daily at the time. We got a lot of looks passing through the security gates and it did not go unnoticed by our other colleagues either (who had taken some boring company car). After the visit, I changed from safety boots to driving shoes, but the Esprit wouldn't start. Luckily I had a good idea of what the problem would be, so opened the boot, reattached the wire to the starter, tried to get my hands clean and then set off. We still made it back to the office before the others. 🙂 Worse part is, when I gave that same colleague a lift to some after work training session, we again took the Esprit and again I needed to get under the hood for a minor fix. This time it was a vacuum hose that had come off, meaning the ECU didn't see the boost pressure and fueling was way off both at idle and under boost. Still driveable with just the right amount of right foot though, and we did make it there quicker then by train and bus (like we were supposed to do). I miss that car... Really need to get it back on the road. At least I'm working on her sister now, which is almost done, so I can look forward to some extended test drives. Filip

No separate switch, it's in the actuator. So the trim needs to be pried of for access...

I saw a mower like that a while back and couldn't really figure it out. Surely it's easier if you can sit down while mowing large areas? And it's not really that more compact, plenty of space above the deck for a seat. So is it just for visibility? That's no problem at all with a front seat mower either. And even the little tractors have good visibility all around if you bother to move your head a bit.

As above, no harm in driving a Freelander in FWD, it wont cause any load or stresses. Just remember you no longer have the benefit of full time 4x4, so the car will react differently!

Often the case, but on the P38 the earth for the wipers is not shared by the lock, that is earthed through the drivers door actuator. In fact, there is not much common between both systems... The BECM will stop the rear wiper or prevent it from working is the tailgate is not (properly) closed. So I'd start looking at the lock first. Is the central locking working as it should? If not, start with the driver door actuator and its wiring. If CDL is working, you need to open the tailgate to investigate further. Either prying away the trim from the inside and operating the lever manually, or bypassing the unlock button on the lower tailgate (which will be destroyed in the process).

65A isn't much, but then the TDi doesn't use much electricity either. I've never bothered upgrading the alternator or battery when running an electric winch. As long as it's for occasional (self) recovery, it will do just fine. Of course if there's an easy upgrade available, you might as well.

That's the Silverstone Golf Club camping site, right? We'll be staying in the hotel (don't fancy camping in the Elan!). 🙂