BogMonster

If it isn't leaking it should in theory last forever I guess? Maybe there is an air leak between the pump and the valve block and so the pump ran continuously trying to bring up the supply pressure till it went phut and now there is no pump... Have you checked all the fuses etc?

Earth fault somewhere - have fun! It will probably not be wherever you start looking.

They didn't appeal to me either but I have to say we see a fair number of D2s at work including high mileage police vehicles and to the best of my knowledge we have never, ever replaced a wheel bearing on a D2.... How they would stand up to regular deep wading etc, I don't know. The Watts linkage is supposed to lower the roll centre or something, to improve handling, so if you wanted a mainly roadgoing vehicle I guess that would be a benefit.

Easy to check, put it into extended off road mode and see if it goes up

It is - I know somebody that pulled half a vehicle to bits only to discover a stripped drive flange. There was language when I pointed it out Hence the need to start by looking underneath to make sure there aren't any propshafts spinning. If there is a prop spinning freely, then the problem is at that end, something the person I "helped" completely failed to check

Now that would make a good tech thread

Rear end is completely different, D2 uses radius arms and a Watts linkage rather than an A frame and lower links. It could be done, but it would not be a straight swap.

I don't know - but probably not, it is almost certainly just a normally-open switch which connects the wires together when you operate it.

If you have time it may be worth taking a look at the mainshaft splines anyway - you wouldn't want it to go bang the following week would you

I would stick with EP90 personally, I like to know when there is a leak and I like to be able to change it. Sadly I have to use grease as my 90 is too new to have the drain bungs so was "greased" at the factory but if I could I would stick with oil.

I would start with checking the switch is working and connected.

Gallons of copperslip Don't use nothing, when my last Discovery was built it had "nothing" on the downpipe to manifold studs and I had a hell of a job getting them out - dry as a bone refitted with lots of copperslip and when I took it off again to do the auto box conversion, it was much easier I think you have to be careful not to get anything on the lambda sensor though... or it buggers them up.

If it is a 95MY my money would be on the mainshaft splines. Sometimes/usually they go with a bang but not always. If you know the sort of bang it makes when a t-box jumps out of high or low range, that is what it sounds like when it goes under load but it could just be a bad gearchange or something. Start with the PTO cover anyway it is easy to get off and it will be immediately obvious if that is the problem. If so it will need a gearbox rebuild with a new mainshaft and fit the new type input gear in the t/box which has oil drillings in it so the problem will never reoccur. May be as well to get an exchange gearbox from Ashcrofts and I would fit a new clutch at the same time, since it is a gearbox out job and you are 98% of the way there already.

2 most likely possibilities: 1) centre gone out of the clutch 2) mainshaft gear stripped A distant 3rd is a snapped mainshaft. I'm assuming you have tried all gears and reverse in high and low range, with and without diff lock engaged, and that you've looked underneath to make sure none of the propshafts are spinning freely ... if not then check those things first. If one of the props is spinning freely then you have a diff or halfshaft problem. If the vehicle is newer than 1996 it probably isn't the mainshaft splines but if it is older, you need to check that by taking the PTO cover off the back of the transfer box and taking the gear out. If the splines are chewed up it will be an obvious rusty gungy mess. If they are not, put the vehicle in gear and try driving, if the clutch centre has gone the mainshaft won't turn. Report your findings and we'll see where to go from there

Damn you beat me to it

What is the reason the std one won't fit? I assume from the pic that the towing attachment holes are probably further back than the crossmember?

Not much point in taking half a vehicle to an event I guess

Welcome Yes it is cruise control. Assuming it is working: Press the motorway switch and I think it should illuminate (unless the bulb is blown) Accelerate to the desired speed Press the "set" switch and it should hold that speed. I never found the "reset" to work again after decelerating likewise you are supposed to be able to bump the speed up and down in 1mph increments with the two switches but on mine it only seems to go up.

Defender 90 is a standard 2 pin diff same as it has always been, the only difference now is the retaining system for the bearing backlash adjusters is slightly different but the actual diff is the same.

A squirrel makes less of a bend in the front than a kangaroo I think And in this part of the world we don't have any squirrels. Or trees. Or kangaroos.

If your propshafts are rotating but no wheels rotating (if I understand correctly), some or all of the following are buggered front diff rear diff CV joints halfshafts best get the spanners out I reckon

Mine is carbon neutral due to the fact that I don't give a fig and would welcome some warmer weather

Yikes! That is quite spectacular, I would love to have seen it happen

No. Fuly charged battery usually shows about 12.7-12.8 volts on most multimeters (in my experience the reading tends to vary by about 0.1V between a selection of different cheapie meters) 12.5 is a battery that needs a good charge IMHO, but it should still start the vehicle unless there is a dud cell. Hard to say on the non start problem - check all the wiring etc for bad earths would be my advice.

If you don't turn up the fuelling I should think there will be not too much in the way of extra power either.... It may work at higher altitudes though, if thats all you want.