Daan

I will answer your question with the dutch suppliers I used to use. Vis land rovers has almost anything: https://www.vislandrovers.nl/ Budget parts, as the name says try to undercut the above and others, but be careful with quality: https://www.budget-parts.nl/ No experience with these people, but I know of others who have used them: https://jansenlaroparts.nl/ Regards, Daan

That bulbar is only rusting at the front, where it gets hammered with stones, from the cars in front of you. For that sort of thing, IMO only Land Rover chrome lasts. My chassis is the one thing that still looks ok, and that had the treatment. The bottom looks like it is dragged across the road for a while but still no visible rust. The axles, which get a really bad hammering when going off-road, were zinc plated, but that also wore off fairly soon. So if I were to do the axles again, they will also get galvanized. My bulkhead and grille panel were blasted and zinc sprayed, they are still good, apart from if you try to weld it or where the side of the bulkhead is dragged against a rock. Generally, If I paint something, I use no-nonsense zinc primer, and whatever color is on top, or leave it bare. But the way I treat the car, rust will show one day.

Sorry, but why does everyone think it will break?

I am of no help at all here, but I will say that Ibex is a very tidy build. We want a build thread! Daan

I think 3 mm could work, granted a flat 3 mm plate does not do much for you, but once you give it decent returns top and bottom, you have a channel that is plenty strong. My rear winch mount is just a folded channel of 3mm with the winch bolted on top of this, feet down. Lots of holes drilled into it, around 8 kg. All you need to do is to have an as direct line of force from the winch mounting points to the chassis. The rest is just hanging around it for show. The bash plate, I would remove the slots, and just have some holes at the bottom for drainage. What has worked for me is to have a bit of box section on top of the bottom edge with a stay going upwards to the chassis to stop it bending in the middle. Daan

I still run the KAM 4.75 crown wheel and pinions since 2002. survived everything I threw at it, with a pegged diff housing. I have to say the standard drive members which were bought new at the time are doing very well too. I don't run the upgraded drive members, as this could act as the sacrificial part in my drive train, and could be changed in 10min. I always carry a spare but never used it. Daan

Almost done! Has the trailer got a registration?

No messing around; Are you planning on using it this summer?

Time for an update: I did a bit more engine-related stuff on the Jeep; The engine came into my possession without an ECU. This, and the fact that I am useless with electronics made me decide to run the engine without any electronics. You can replace the pump on this engine with a mechanical injection pump. This is called an M-TDI in VW circles. The pump I use comes from a Land Rover 300 TDI which has similar power output to the VW. I got a pump off Ed Poores pile of spare TDI parts; He even delivered it to my work. To fit it to the VW engine, a few mods are needed: the VW pump bracket needs slots so you can rotate the pump to set the timing, and the center bore diameter needs to be taken out from 50mm to 68mm. So I took the bracket to the machine shop: I fitted an 8mm cutter tool to my router and create the slots. The 50mm hole saw is a tight fit in the 50mm bore, so I clamped it to the router to use this as the fulcrum: Once the slots are done, I opened the centre bore. You can fit 2 hole saws to one Arbor and so use the 50mm hole saw as the guide for the 68mm hole saw to cut a hole in the center of the bracket. Bracket modified: Also on Ed’s pump, the bracket on the back of the pump for the 4th bolt need modifying to fit to the land rover pump. I ended up sandwiching the VW bracket with the land rover throttle cable bracket. Also, the delivery valves on the back of the pump need to be swapped for the VW ones, as the land rover valves are much longer: With the ECU not present, I also needed to make a mod to the turbo. It is a VNT turbo, or Variable Nozzle Turbine. This is normally operated by vacuum through a box of tricks by the ECU. I converted it to pressure activation using a wastegate actuator. The one I got is a Forge motorsport piston actuator. This can be taken apart so you can change the spring for a different stiffness to change the characteristics of the Turbo. The usual purpose for this is to increase the turbo pressure, here it is to set up the VNT. I got the actuator with a box of springs, so plenty of scope to setup the turbo correctly. The actuator is generic but fits to the VW actuator bracket. I just needed to shorten the actuator rod and turn buckle. The most bling part on my jeep so far: I also rotated the turbine housing to point upwards, to help the routing of the intake pipe. While at this side of the engine, I replaced the inlet manifold for a Golf version. The Passat intake manifold points to the rear of the car, the Golf version points to the front. The manifold came from the BRM code golf engine, this has the best flow rate of all the TDI manifolds made by VW (an American tuning geek flow bench tested all the manifold options, and the BRM version came out as best.) Lh Passat AFN, Rh Golf BRM All done, it looks like this: Thanks for reading! Daan

Looks awesome. Great to finish the job. Daan

Advertise it on shiply?

To be fair, I doubt any land rover is bought by individuals these days. They are generally company cars, so for business use. So either bought on finance by the company or leased.

I have not seen the longer bolt with the slotted washer before. My engine was one of the last build 300 TDIs, and I bought it new. the first time I changed the belt, the tensioner had come loose, hence my precautions.

There is a god... Great news!

The 3 versus 6 pinions was done by ashcroft to reduce wear, according to their website write up. This picture does not show anything for pre load: The Dana 44 version has wavey springs between the pinions:

BMW engine?

350K, and you can't have a mortgage on that either. Daan

I went there myself again, and got some rear seats for my Landy, and met a few people. As an aside, when I walked back to the car park, I came across a family who had walked back to the car park with a load of bits, only to find their car stolen. I know this happened in the past, but clearly, has not been solved with all the security staff present. That is disappointing, and I will not take my Landy there again as a result. Daan

Here we are again, with an update; it took a while, but I spent a lot of time to get to this point: With the engine mounted, there are still a few things to sort out to make this engine work in the jeep. There are some serious clashing problems with the LH chassis rail to the oil filter, the alternator, the PAS pump, and the viscous fan. Neither of these is easily solvable, they are proper head-on train crash stuff. The Oil filter problem was solved by changing the filter for a shorter one, of a Vauxhall Omega V6; it is about half the length of the VW one, at the expense of a non-return valve and an overflow valve. It now clears the chassis rail with some distance: And this is where the simple solutions ended: the other problems had to be solved by moving parts to other places. The alternator had to move to the RH side of the engine, in the space for the AC pump, and the PAS pump moved upwards to clear the chassis rail, and essentially in the position where it sits in the Golf. A bracket was made up soon enough for the PAS pump: On the RH side, a bracket was made up to hold the alternator, and I searched for ways to move the viscous fan as well. I much prefer the viscous fan over an electric fan for an off-road vehicle. All this then needs some form of tensioner as well, since the original one now does not work in its position where it is. I Essentially had to re-designing the accessory drive, and this is where it went very quickly from ‘how hard can it be’ to the one problem that kept me awake at night. There is only one place where the tensioner can be, which is next to the crank pulley at the un-tensioned part of the belt. In this position, it also increases the belt wrap around the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. Several automotive tensioners were tried, but none of them looked like I could get to work. The clock springs in these are usually massive, and there just isn’t the space required. Then I looked at linear spring versions. The Mondeo MK3 diesel tensioner is the one I went with. The dimensions of the arm aren’t quite right, but I used the spring, the pulley, and the bearings of this and fabricated my own version of the tensioner arm: There were quite a few turned parts required for all the changes in the accessory drive, I got these done to my drawings by Darren at Bushes2U.com. His work was spot on, well-recommended: The alternator, tensioner, and viscous fan bearing are all incorporated in this fabricated bracket: All assembled it looks like this: Mounted to the engine: On the engine, anticlockwise from the crank pulley, there is the water pump pulley, an idler pulley (this was the location of the viscous fan), another idler pulley (The old tensioner, changed to a smooth pulley), PAS pump, and viscous fan shaft. The viscous fan used to be driven by the smooth side of the belt, but in this position, it gets driven by the ribbed side of the belt. This meant 2 things; the pulley needs changing for a ribbed pulley, and the rotation is now the opposite way. I solved the ribbed pulley problem by using a Ford Fiesta ribbed pulley, welded to the old pulley and I swapped the fan for a version of the VW Passat with a petrol engine. This fan bolts on the diesel viscous coupling. Last but not least, a longer Fan belt completed the job. Thanks for reading, things are moving, but slowly! Daan

you could go to the heritage centre in Gaydon, which is an indoor activity with lots of land rovers. The indoor bit is important, because right now it looks like we are in the middle of a Monsoon! Bicester village is where all the rich visitors go, and requires a Porsche or new Range Rover to enter. Not a bad call, but it depends on what you drive.

Interesting project, keep the updates coming. I'd say these would be a good fit under the 110, as the extended wheel base would make it more stable on hills. But either would work obviously. Are you fitting the Koenig PTO winch? Daan

That would be a shame, I used to subscribe back in the day, before the internet became big. I still occasionally buy the mag, but as mentioned, you can only tell the same thing so often. That said, from the Landy mags that are left, I'd say LRO is probably the best, so that is a bit of a surprise. I must say, the collaboration with Brit part did annoy me, as well as the Chelsea tractor wholesalers like twisted and Nene overland. But that is where the money is I suppose.

38mm thick ones I have always used, now 2 are used in the garden as walking path across our vegetable patch. Not sure I get the bit of not using lockers when the ground is soft. But then, I am not able to switch off my lockers.

Can you sandwich a plate between the transfer case and the O/D with a hole as small as the shaft? This to achieve a higher oil level. I normally fill my PTO to the required height, however, after the first steep hill, the PTO fills up completely with oil to the top. I usually have to refill the transfer box after this.

Controls look a bit home made: