Daan

The bell house on the engine needs swapping as well, and I am not sure if a 200 has the correct holes for the 300 crank seal.

about 30.000 from new. Not necessarily talking about my engine, but general failures at events. Daan

Problem is that the moment you weld, the aluminum turns to cheese. So the material next to the weld is now a weak point. and the head does see big pressures above the combustion chambers, as well as local temperatures reaching 700 degrees. Both together is a good way to show weaknesses. So if you have the choice, avoiding welding would be preferable. Of course, the classic car crowd has been successfully welding heads and blocks for years because if there is nothing else available you have no choice. I don't see the big problem, an ebay search reveals at least 10 200 heads, and 2 pages of 300 heads. If a 300 head fits a 200, there is even less of a problem. I have yet to see much evidence of the 300 being a bad engine myself (just don't bash the sump to a rock like I did once!). I much prefer the 300 for reasons of supply and cost of parts.

flipping the casing would make your axle spring under again. which is what you want from what I gather? The swivels are 6 bolt so could swap between left and right and work with the housing upside down, but not sure about the castor angle. You would need to flip the diff to maintain the correct rotation. (I presume the dodge propshaft rotates the correct way?). The bolt pattern is not symmetrical, so you would need to re-drill the holes for the diff. That would leave the drain plug to move to the bottom:

For friction coeficient, PTFE (teflon) is best. Ideally teflon to teflon, so you would need 2 layers. other wise nylon will be ok I'd say. Are these the 101 springs? Not sure if they have the joggle at the end like aftermarket ones do. This means they only touch at the bushing ends,

Great camper and pictures; keep it coming! Daan

Just check the rules:

0nly in recent years cars were pinged on wheels sticking out and many cars had legality spikes fitted as an afterthought by the manufacturer, like this car, above the mudflaps: With this in mind, you have to wonder how this is legal: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165945102522?hash=item26a31950ba:g:ER8AAOSwpItj8B4Z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoMPUx50v7TAakAa6KM59kPMk0DRsA02KkkXzETOIZG%2BW6wtK2h%2BK2rC6XT0HoAt8vXXsbtmRQqBKC5vQHcb4kHQtuD2kObhOYM5UCpHoHFuf2z%2BSTNNkESXPdm8smZd2%2BkOSGIg54Ip3BRi838hJY6m0%2BU6PDkEs%2FOfxvgeZwzdPFkYRUu36bGOYZ69fSPFe5%2F%2BK%2FGyoXsE7xEprO3Utwgg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-j3osDWYQ

If it were me, I would fit a 4-pin diff at the front (possibly P38 center, if that fits) and 23/24 spline Ashcroft shafts at the front, and the jack mcnamara manual diff lock kit (the one where you push the shaft in on the drive member) for the rear axle if you can find it. This keeps the parts mainly standard and removes the weak 2 pin front diff center. You already have the early 23/24 spline 2522 CVs, judging from your drive members, so these are the strongest standard CV's. I doubt you break anything in this setup, perhaps a CV if you try very hard, but this is easy to swap in the field.

Does britpart sell grenadier parts?

I'd say it is beneficial in comp safari, or rallying, where a locked diff would make the car understeer and in an open diff you start spinning wheels earlier. A lot of development on rally cars centers around the centre diff for this reason. For what we are doing, it is usually diff lock on when it gets serious which also removes the weakness problem from what I understand.

Surprised that came from holland.

It very much depends on where the engine is in relation to the front axle; The picture Fridge shows has the engine backward a long way. In an SWB with an LT77 you probably have to move it forward and that moves it closer to the diff, so the offset is needed to miss it at full compression of the axle. There is also the exhaust to consider on both sides and the oil filter location, steering and bulkhead mods that determine the best place. The starter handle working is nice to have but if you have the aforementioned problems considered, this is probably secundary; you could always modify the cross member and bumper to keep this facility. Lots to consider and lots of work... Daab

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165942444152?hash=item26a2f0c078:g:UBMAAOSwOUZj7mB7&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBBj4lVwpegK1ey1GM2fuQQbbs8Kzx%2BNiEq1rsYvoKGfX%2Fh2mYMUyzc%2BOW5IhVzvM2vOnaib4AdQaSmXjwYB9ECj2cnSzmCEJfn5F5K87gL9f6R0WDxUgfv9OCiX8oXb%2Bbiytw6cP3k0OPMH%2B5YlYfCLWRCNBocKonxNAx%2BtFxDKMO3Lxoc1uvG02c4QsSEGQhc4Qny5ED0EFWGi3rK8ok6g2HDo%2B%2FUpOcwTw8QEI5zo|tkp%3ABk9SR9jgtuDMYQ

It is all the way down to the bearing from memory.

As used in F1 for several years. the main advantage is that instead of opening the wastegate, you can use the excess power generated to charge the hybrid battery. Still, a shame they haven't been able to make a VNT turbo work on a petrol engine reliably. That would probably be a better solution. Daan

I have this in mine, makes a big difference: https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/defender/defender-power-master-bundle-spring-master-cylinder/?v=79cba1185463 Daan

This has doubled in price, 1 day in. Will be watching this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285141803660?hash=item4263c6a28c:g:rPMAAOSwP3Rj2l71&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoL3YsPu4Xx7kEX3pDiIFs3CMkFirg%2BIZXK%2FvwamvcgpfI1ZU5lCIV9Na%2FCdECfdAyXKf0K7QVIzSlgMvnD59xtZQ7WetNLdx30uFLMntFsb9Iu5utr9byFUWIqhBnnOiJgv7PkXwEuHOPGDl8kiHAcXNuTubKspgXKieA%2F3lFkRCpRkWGxCGcLrbLNqAjQIRS%2BjFSV4j4Ve1YZQimPgBS10%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-zT1JvIYQ

Interesting to see LRO testing it, as it is not a Landrover. I bet they are not a big fan of the new defender either. Might have to buy that mag.

I would throw these in the bin for a few reasons. I am less worried about the threaded bolt, but more about the nut that holds them onto the hub. This works directly onto aluminium which has a chance of deforming. Where most alloy wheels have a steel insert to combat wear or at least a different shape nut, these clearly don't. If they were steel, that would be acceptable, in aluminium, I think it is not. With the wheel mounted, there is no way of checking the nuts, so if they works loose, your wheel will eventually fall off with the spacer. Sorry to be negative about this, but I would not run these for this reason. My opinion.

I really like the effort that was put into the Grenadier, It is really a continuation of the rugged off roaders from the good old days. Ineos should be applauded for doing this. It is easy to criticise, but the task in hand is not easy in today's legislation. I would love to see the SWB arriving on the scene as well, and it is going to be really good once people start modding them with big tyres, winches etc. I would have one over the new defender, no contest. Daan

I envy you! I got 1 hour in this week so far. Daan

Damn, if I wasn't put of a TDV6 yet, this video certainly did. Daan

On face book: