oneandtwo

Where do I start? If you adjusted the door front to back, you need to add or remove door striker shims to suit. Other reasons are - cracked b pillar - common when door hasn’t been maintained / sorted sooner - the door is then slammed harder and harder in effort to get it to latch causing the pillar to crack around the strikers; this then causes the striker to flex inward making it even harder to get the door to latch meaning it has to be slammed even harder, This is usually the cause of the inner door metalwork cracking from excessive slamming too. Worn strikers - the plastic sleeve get worn or damaged so the lock won’t latch correctly leading to slamming and the above. X eng Xtrousers are the best strikers but I have found the allen bolt needs to be remove and loctited in as they work loose and can jam the door. The door locks themselves get worn making the latch have to close slightly more than it would when new to latch, and when latched, they get play allowing the door to spring back from the seals slightly. The result of this is the striker has to be moved slightly more inboard to get the door to seal against the seal and be flush against the body, but because of the wear in the latch because the striker has been moved inwards, the door will not initially latch. Rotten doors flexing. Pattern door seals being too hard and causing door to spring back. I tried a Britpart latch once out of curiosity because it was brand new and came included in spares with a vehicle I bought. It latched fine but when locked it jammed and I had to remove the door panel in situ to release it. I have spent the last 20 years sorting Defender doors. A pair of revised 2005 one piece doors with new genuine latches, x trouser strikers and decent door seals can be made to be 99% watertight and shut like a modern car.

The 300tdi got rid of all the rubber bullet connectors for econoseals in 1994 apart from the steering column switchgear. They waited until 1995/6 to go over to econoseals for them for some reason!

No, I’ve always bought new calipers and swapped the pistons out for stainless.

Britpart or similar used to supply them for pence - I had loads of them and I wouldn’tve paid genuine prices for one! They do fit around the reinforced axle BTW

I changed my Puma 90 back to the old style, no problems. I also went back to the 300tdi one piece halfshafts too!

I have had Britpart s/s pistons for many years in numerous vehicles, they are excellent. I’ve just removed a set of them from an old 90 I was using for launching boats, The caliper castings were knackered but I’ve removed the Britpart stainless pistons which are at least 5 years old and they are still like new, in fact I’ve just refitted them into new calipers. I had a set from Zeus many years ago and to be honest I couldn’t tell the difference . Some Britpart stuff is very good - their stainless steel swivel housing seal retainers and brake shield mounts for example.

Compomotive used to make an exact replica of that wheel (which is a deep dish, not boost). Often Defenders of 300tdi / early td5 only came with four alloys and a steel spare under a cover so I expect at some point a Compomotive has been purchased to replace a steel spare.

Simon, I’ve had three different sets of genuine wolfs on three different 300tdi defenders over the years and each time the wheel stud is flush to the head of the nut. I also have an old 200tdi 90 I bought recently just to launch boats with which is fitted with the frc7577 studs and wolf rims (not by me!) and can confirm they look daft with 10-15mm stud protruding as in attached photo

Mine has side lockers in the rear tub- The steps are bolted to the floor of the locker and also to the outrigger. The brackets look fabricated by Roger Young (main dealer who did the fit out on it)

?? Original poster has supplied all of the above! Anyway, the answer to the question is that the nut is a Bollhoff “Seal lock” nut - these are designed to seal the threads of the steering box adjuster nut from leakage.

I’ll take some photos on Monday if you like. I’ve never looked under it in the three years I’ve had it!

One of the 20plus defenders I’ve owned over the years had the mirror glass replaced with the shiny side of a biscuit tin. Worked fine!

My work vehicle is a 16 plate 110 van with side steps, no idea of make as they were fitted from new, double tube type, but they are / were available if it’s any help.

When viewed from the front, on td5 / Puma the wings will look like they twist outward slightly as Land Rover inserted the intercooler / bonnet prop mounting plates in between the wing and the grill surround / slam panel at the top - the slam panel is then approx 10mm wider than originally design hence the twist / droop. You can pack the lower fixing points out each side (where the wing is bolted to the chassis just in front of steering box) to straighten them up.

None of the damage is my doing! - These all came out of 300tdi defenders and discos that I have scrapped over the years, no idea of the history of them!

Currently rebuilding my transfer box with 1.2Q gears, sleeved casing etc. On stripping the centre diff down, the bronze washers for the planetary gears had disintegrated and the gears had worn themselves into the housing. I then stripped two more LT230 centre diff which still had the washers intact however there is slight wear in the housings of both of them still - photos attached below. How much, if any wear is acceptable? (anyone got a decent housing spare for sale?) or do I just buy an Ashcroft ATB and be done with it?

The bushes in the centre diff are bronze.

I bought genuine LR 2 years ago, didn’t fit properly, Vents wouldn’t close correctly due to foam density, even after a few month in position, fell off as soon as summer arrived. Bought a pair of britpart as a stop gap- fit perfectly, allow the vents to close correctly and still in position 2 years on.

The Foam seals on the flap generally work better than the rubber ones. amazingly, the genuine Land Rover ones are rubbish, whereas Britpart ones fit perfectly and the glue doesn’t fail in the summer

It’s not really a straight swap as the amount of sweep per stroke is different, and the length of the cable is much shorter. It fits to the bulkhead differently too.

Can’t help, but the steering box was the main reason I sold my 80” - it only had 20k from new but steering was abysmal despite Very expensive rebuild of original cast iron steering box. I have to say I don’t miss it at all!

Thanks. It is just rear axle left hand bracket I need. I’ve scrapped loads over the years!

The weld in bosses for the taper are both welded in wonky and the bracket itself is originally tapered profile but replacement more like a channel cut in half. I agree though most other YRM parts I’ve had over the years are excellent.

I ordered a pair of new rear axle anti roll bar brackets from YRM for rear axle as my left hand one has been damaged, however they are rather disappointingly of pretty poor quality and only vaguely similar to the originals I’ve looked around the web all evening but seems no-one else makes replacement brackets so now next option is to find a scrap casing and cut the left hand bracket off. I scrapped all my spares last year so does anyone have scrap casing I could purchase the bracket off? Disco or defender is fine. Or an alternative supplier other than YRM?

I have a set of Toyo open country 255 on wolfs on an old 200tdi 90 I bought mainly for launching boats. I was going to take them off and put on a set of sawtooth/Goodyear MTRs that I have spare but I’ve grown to like the Toyos extra clearance and as above the road noise is far less than expected.