oneandtwo

I stuck a single sheet of silent coat on each section of the roof panel on my hicap Made a massive difference, stopped all the drumming and flexing.

Bilstein were out of stock everywhere two years ago so with some trepidation I put some Cellular Dynamics on as a stop gap. They have been excellent and hardly any corrosion even though I live by the sea, I haven’t bothered replacing them with Bilsteins.

The door top sits 5mm too low without the capping too.

You don’t need to trim them down, but you will have gaps down the side of the card around the door latch area.

No, it’s not visible on that one on eBay, or on the parts diagram, because they don’t exist.

Will fit straight on, nothing else is needed to fit it

I put some Britpart cellular dynamic on one of my 90s as bilstein we’re out of stock everywhere. Surprisingly they are excellent and two years later still very good. But those cheap black ones are terrible.

The hinge design was changed in 1990 to try and ensure a better seal - the older style when closed would flex the hinge portion. I would be more concerned about the rust holes in the passenger side corner of the bulkhead!

The core plugs are 30p each it is daft not to change them, I’ve had a couple of 300tdis which have had leaks from the core plugs over the years.

The Panhard rod mounting is different. You need to use the 2013 Panhard rod and will also need to get the 2013 steering box Panhard rod mounting bracket. I would still be changing the front drive members at 65000 at the very least, my Puma had noticeable wear at 30000.

DDS manufacture them in UK, part number LR577.

Land Rover ditched the spire nuts and went back to the captive nut plates the same as that on the Defender bulkhead door hinge mounting.

I had a Factory 1990 v8 Hicap many years ago. The tunnel looked exactly the same as the r380 tunnel but there was something different about it when compared side by side, but I can’t remember what the difference was now!

The bulkhead is blasted then hot zinc sprayed straight away, the zinc spray doesn’t need etch priming, I just degrease it and a couple of good coats of high build primer flatted back on the visible parts. I think with my lightweight I just hand painted it with red oxide directly to the surface then nato green and it hasn’t lost any paint. I will get my Puma bulkhead done shortly when I strip it down.

I rebuilt a lot of bulkheads 10-15 years ago, I had them all hot zinc sprayed. My lightweight has been parked by the sea for nearly 15 years and no rust whatsoever. The brand new lightweight bulkhead top section I purchased at the same time and didn’t get zinc sprayed had rust holes 5 years ago.

Take a look at a defender, they didn’t change that build method until the end of production. I’ve marked up your photo - the green is how the upper skin should be, red shows the door pillar in position - dotted red line is where it is positioned under the top skin of bulkhead. blue is position of spot welds joining the pillar to the top skin, and seam weld where the step in the pressing is of the door pillar where it is seam welded to the upper skin.

The door pillar pressing should be positioned under the top skin of the bulkhead where you have rebuilt the corner, and spot welded to it, that’s what the pressed step in the top of the pillar is for.

That bracket mounts to the underside of the 300tdi engine mounted air filter housing bracket. It uses one of the rubber mount stud nuts which holds the support brace. I think the parts file shows it as a 90 degree bracket not 180.

Buy cheap buy twice.

I might get round to changing the clutch slave / release bearing in my old Puma 90. It only failed 18 months ago!

I swapped a disco spec one to defender last year, I hadn’t done one for six years, wish I’d remembered I’d posted how to do it on here as I had to work out how to do it again! Hope it helps you out!

I would get a pair from a rotten discovery1. You can’t give those arms away normally!

I forgot to take photos of my Puma before I left home for a few weeks but found the photo below of my old 2006 CSW with when I replaced the rusty cappings - large threaded spacer / washer visible with m8 hex set screw threaded all the way through from the underside of the cappings, through the spacer and forming a stud to mount the side panel. The threaded spacer has two flats to enable it to be held by a spanner when tightening the bolt up.

The cappings pictured at the top are specifically for the rear tub with the factory fitted bulkhead removal bar, initially these were the late td5 90csw, and then when LR offered the bulkhead removal option on the Puma 90XS hardtop. They don’t have the section to pick up on the seat bulkhead. The CSW capping is drilled to suit the side panel, there is then a large round threaded spacer that is bolted from below the capping, the bolt thread protrudes through the spacer forming a stud for the side panel to bolt to. As far as I am aware this is to improve fit and alignment of the side panels to the rear tub, and also to prevent the creaking that is sometimes caused by the side panels being bolted through the hood stick tubes with a big washer. The CSW cappings as above are fabricated out of three separate sections welded together, presumably as they were a relatively small production run, wheras the standard hardtop cappings became one piece pressings around 2004 The newer one piece cappings can be retrofitted to an older tub but the rivet holes need re drilling as the locations changed slightly compared to the older welded cappings. I can take some photos of the capping threaded spacers as I have the rear tub off my Puma 90 at the moment.

I have had that problem on a few 300tdis that have been standing for a couple of years. Vigorous flicks of the pump throttle lever has always cured it.